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canhockey7

What kind of golf clubs do you use?

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A question for the club experts out there:

Presently I've got 4 wedges, a 45* PW, then a 52* GW, a 56* SW, and 60*LW. However, I'm starting to experience a yardage gap problem. I hit my PW 150, but I hit my 52* 125 (although if I really stretch it I can get it to 130), hit my 56* 112 and my 60* 95. I'm thinking about making a change to a 50*GW, 54* SW and 58* LW to shrink up that yardage gap between the PW and GW. Does this sound like a good idea or am I just wasting my time? All thoughts and comments welcomed.

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I assume they are forged wedges, so why not take them to your LGS (haha) and have them bent on the Smith Machine?

Have them bend your PW to 47* and your gap to 51*. I don't think you would want to give up the versatility of your 60* in exchange for a 58*. Plus the expense of having an employee change your loft would be less than $10 per club.

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I am definitely going to have them bent - no reason to spend all that dough on new wedges. What I think I might do, at least at first, is have the Gap bent to 50* and the Sand bent to 55*. That way I still have the 60*. Although, part of me thinks I might not need the 60*, as I have a tendency to leave it short when I use it around the green, particularly from the rough.

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Driver: Taylormade R7 SuperQuad, 9.5 with a Fujikura Tour Platform 27.3 shaft.

Woods: Taylormade R7 ST Tour Spoon three wood and R7 ST five wood. Both with Dynamic Gold S300 shafts.

Irons: Mizuno MP-30 with Rifle Project X, stiff shafts.

Wedges: Taylormade RAC, black out custom wedges. 54 and 58.

Putter: Scotty Cameron, Pro Platinum, Newport, Mil Spec. 35 inches.

Ball: Taylormade TP Red.

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The nice titleist set:

-Titleist MB-690 forged blades, custom geometry with rifle shafts, harmonically optimized. 2-9 irons & PW

-Titleist Vokey 54* oil can wedge with 14* bounce, rifle shaft

-Titleist Vokey 58* oil can wedge with 8* bounce, spin-milled, rifle shaft

-Titleist 905T 9.5* driver with Aldila NV shaft

-Titleist 906F2 18* fairway metal with Aldila NV shaft

-Titleist Scotty Cameron Studio 1.5, from Cameron custom shop

The walking set (7 clubs):

-Calaway x-18 3, 5, 7, 9 iron. custom geometry, rifle shafts

-Titleist Vokey 48* and 60* wedges

-Titleist Scotty Cameron Classic blade putter, circa 1980

-no woods

titleist pro v1 & v1x golf balls

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the NV's have to be the best bang for your buck on the market. i've been using them for a few seasons now, and wont switch. i dont think it had any effect on my length, but my control has definitely improved. what stiffness did you order, and for what club?

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I bought it for a R7 Superquad in X stiff. I already have a Speeder in my 983E in X stiff and I like the ball flight a lot. The Taylor Made originally had a stock stiff shaft and I was overloading it. My ball speed is between 170-180 off of the driver so I think I should be able to handle the NV.

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photo.jpg

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All Titleist...

Driver: 905T 10.5

3 Wood: 904F / PT 15

5 Wood: 585H Hybrid 21

Irons: 990's 2-PW

Wedges: Vokey 52, 56, 60

Putter: Scotty Cameron Classics Santa Fe (Coked)

Balls: Pro V1

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I have a question about my Cameron Putter as listed above...I bought it used from a friend back when we were on the HS golf team...He had it Coked to remove the original Gun Metal finish. Now after many years of use, it has accumulated some mild rusting all over the club head. Would putting it Coke again remove any of that rust? And for a Followup question...if it doesn't, I've been looking at sending it back to Scotty's shop to have it refinished. Will they be able to restore it, or is it beyond repair?

Edit: Pics Added

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And As I mentioned below..I sent it out for refinishing...Here's the results.

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American Classic Head Cover, New Shaft and Grip

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Sole Stripe Red, Instead of Copper as Originals were.

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Back and Flange

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Face, and added Dancing Money Stamp.

Overall SUPER Excited how it came out. I recommend this for anyone with a Cameron in need of some TLC.

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Coking it will definitely remove the rust. You could also use some sort of rust remover that's safe to use on stainless steel. I would say that the SC should be able to fix it but it's going to cost about $150 to get it back to new or like new condition.

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Actually 200, and some change. I just set it up to send it back to have completely restored. Now I gotta send it them, and wait for 45 days or so. I'll put up some after pics when I get it back.

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Ok..New question. After accumulating and finishing my set through eBay and the like...I have a variety of different grips throughout my clubs..(Irons are all same). I just got a set of grips, but my question is: What's the common practice on differentiating the grips from the Woods to the Irons? Do you keep them all the same from Driver to LW? Or would you keep all the irons the same, and use different grips on the woods?

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I have stock grips on my wedges and irons that are both different, but are fairly close to the same thing. I also have a different grip on my fairway wood and driver. All of my grips are fairly similar but technically not the same. It depends on what you like for your woods, because you can get thick/cushioned grips all the way down to about the same grip as an iron grip would be.

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I used to put half cords on my woods, but that was when I was swinging them at 120MPH. I've gone to softer grips all the way around over the last few years.

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