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sparky1

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Posts posted by sparky1

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Hey everyone,

    I have a pair of Mako II's and I want to put some Tuuks on them. I have spoken to a couple of people on here, as well as read this forum, and according to everyone the holes line right up. But today I called two separate LHS and both said that they could do it but would have to drill holes. Are these just employees who are not nearly as knowledgeable as the people on this forum and don't know what they're talking about? And if that is the case how do I get them done by someone who knows that the holes will, in fact, line up and no extra drilling will be necessary?

    Thanks

    as long as the holder size is the same, the holes will line right up.

    They are likely just unfamiliar with swapping holders to different brand's skates.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    First of all, finding the right size phillips bit is not rocket science. It's pretty obvious when the bit fits the head perfectly. And you shouldn't be cranking the screws tight enough that you risk stripping the head. You should use loc-tite and not over-tighten the screws.

    And for the washers, it's not at all about the cost. It's just that the less parts there are, the less chance of things moving, the cleaner looking the installation, and the less weight you'll add even if minimal.

    Just my 2 cents worth.

    that makes sense, thank you

  13. Posted · Edited by sparky1 · Report reply

    For the next time, I suggest you get truss head machine screws. They have bigger diameter heads so you don't need to add washers.

    I can't find any that I would want to use. I don't really trust phillips head screws just because there's a risk of stripping it out with the improper sized bit.

    The current screws I use take a T20 torx bit to tighten and work really well. The washers were like $2 per 100, so i'm not too worried about it.

    i'm going to go with these tee nuts next time I swap out hardware: http://www.mcmaster.com/#90973a400/=1050qcfLooks like Type 316 stainless steel is the way to go: http://www.bosunsupplies.com/StainlessInfo2/

  16. Posted · Report reply

    In the process of converting my old VHs over to T-nuts/Socket cap screws and stumbled across this article when trying to figure out how to top coat zinc-plated metals:

    http://www.galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/dissimilar-metals-in-contact

    In your links, you have 3 different types of metals:

    zinc plated steel

    18-8 stainless steel

    316 stainless steel

    In other words, your T-nuts will corrode the quickest (I remember reading somewhere that it would only stand up to about 6 months of use).

    Types of stainless steel:

    http://www.bosunsupplies.com/StainlessInfo2/

    I'm currently experimenting with 18-8 stainless t-nuts (which is similar to 304 stainless steel, but with a different chemical make-up) and 316 stainless screws and washers that will be primed and top-coated with an enamel. It's still way, way early too to tell how well the coating will work, but I'm giving it a solid month of use before I'd recommend it. Either way, I'd avoid zinc-plated parts. They're nearly impossible to top-coat (it's possible to prime them with a cold galvanizing compound, but top-coats are hard to come by) and has a relatively low protection against "marine-like" environments (in this case, withstanding sweat...sodium and water)

    Thanks for the info!

    I got lazy a couple months into installing my t-bolt setup and have since stopped pulling out the footbeds.

    I'll take a peek at them and see how they are holding up so far. I think last time I checked, they were a little corroded, but nothing major.

  18. Posted · Edited by sparky1 · Report reply

    I actually barely lace my skates now. I've also been experimenting with skating with no socks because my current socks are meant for basketball and are very thick.

    Skating barefoot feels REALLY good. no issues other than slight numbness in my toes due to cold, but that's about it.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    You are correct. I was thinking of the holder only, knowing that the LS4 runner is ~+1, but forgetting he would be using the Edge runners. So, 3/32 would be closer the Mako set up than 1/16.

    Regarding the shims, yes, you are also correct. I added the t-nuts on mine specifically to shim laterally as opposed to vertically, but the same principle applies and I can add/remove shims before each ice session in a matter of a few minutes. Can even do it within a game if need be, if I overdid the shims beforehand. Very nice system for tweaking the set up.

    So I was able to measure roughly the holder height on my friends supreme 170's that use the LS edge holder.

    it's 70mm roughly on the rear tower & 55mm on the front tower roughly.

    so I need an extra 5mm to have the rear tower be the same as the CXN & the front tower is roughly the same.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    So, was this with the Bauer holders? Shims, or standard pitch?

    no, sorry, this was with the standard CXN holders & stock pitch and everything.

    I haven't actually gotten my hands on a pair of Bauer holders/steel yet to try this combo out on.

    I wonder if Bauer Vertexx goalie cowlings would line up with the holes without having to drill new holes (and if I do, does drilling new holes affect the skates in a noticeably negative way?)

    not sure about the vertexx cowlings, but there's a lot of posts about others converting their mako's to goalie skates by removing the extendon guard & mounting them in a pair of goalie cowlings.

    http://goaliestore.com/board/forum/equipment/equipment-forum/107534-my-easton-mako-mlx-goal-skates

  21. Posted · Report reply

    So I was able to skate in them for the first time yesterday.

    No noticeable weight difference, or different balance points on the skates.

    I felt like I was skating way better, i'm not sure if it is because there was very little flex in the connection between the boot and the holder now, or what.

    It definitely felt like there was way more bite in each stride I took.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    sparky1, any appreciable weight gain after the conversion?

    I have not had a chance to skate on them yet, but the hardware itself is likely the same weight.

    I don't have any of the rivets to weigh, but I can weigh 1 full piece of the hardware (nut, bolt & washer) when I get home to let you know how much it weighs.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I think we have come to a consensus around here that the Mako pitch is about +3 (as set on profiling equipment... 3/32nds). Some of that is from the holder and some of that is from the blade (a guy who "measured" it for me by using the profiling equipment puts it at around +1.5 contribution from the blade). The profiling equipment rotates the skate about (around) the CENTER point of the skate uniformly regardless of the size of the skate (the distance of the "actuator" of the rotation from the center of the skate does not vary from skate to skate). So if the Edge holder/blade combination is neutral (I have no idea if this is the case) you would need to have a profiler put a +3 on your edge holder blades. A heel shim on the other hand rotates the skate about the TOE of the skate from the heel. Not only does this distance depend on the size of the skate, assuming that you only have a contact point at the front set of rivets and the rear set of rivets, the distance would be AT LEAST twice that of the profiling equipment. Now this is probably an invalid assumption, because all of the rivets are in fact in contact (probably the boot bends a little and the holder bends a little) so I don't know what that does to the math. I would think that a good starting point (assuming that the edge holder/blade is neutral) would be to use a shim around 3/32nds. If it didn't feel like you were quite there, add a little more. If you have reason to believe that the edge holder/blade is not neutral and already has a bit of forward pitch, maybe start with 2/32nds and go up from there. Since you now have tee nuts instead of rivets, you are in an ideal position to exercise trial and error. I have never profiled a pair of skates or used shims in my life though... so I could be all wet.

    BTW, I have had CXN holders for two or three years and I haven't cracked one yet playing 3 or 4 nights a week and blocking a lot of shots.

    Hmm, thanks for the info, maybe I just had a bad set or the rivets were loose causing excessive flex that allowed that to break.

    I noticed when I was taking out the rivets that some of the rear tower rivets were loose and did not appear to be set properly in the boot itself.

    Hopefully with the tee-nuts I will get a more consistent pressure across the entire holder

  24. Posted · Report reply

    The holder alone on the Makos is a +2, I believe. I think (emphasis added for clarity) the LS is neutral. So, you would probably need 2/32 or 1/16. Maybe one of the profiler gurus can chime in, but that would be my guess.

    Gotchya,

    I've got a friend that owns a pair of supreme 170's, so I was going to just measure the height of both towers and the length of it with the blade too to see what kind of shims I would need to add.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Ahh.. got it. I did it to faclititate adding and removing shims. Works quite nicely.

    Would you happen to know what kind of shim I would need to make the LS edge holder be the same height/angle as the CXN's by chance? I like the forward angle of the CXN's, I just don't like their durability so far. Maybe I just had a bad pair or something like that.

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