LFGR

This has all been super helpful. Thanks so much. After some more research, I got a pair of Easton Mako II's. Walking around they feel great. I also got some True Shift holders/runners with the hope of mounting them further to the medial side than stock. But I also notice that they are ~6mm taller than the stock Mako holders. So, question: What effect does the taller holder have on skating when you're an over-pronator? @Vet88 thoughts? Adding a 6mm heel lift to my CCM skates helped a lot, and I plan to do that to the new skates. But yikes, if I'm already gonna be 6mm higher anyway... Maybe I should try to make the stock Easton holders work.

@Vet88 There's one thing you said in the other thread that's been running thru my head for years: "We want the ankle to be able to flex forward and back, just not side to side in uncontrolled motions." This absolute truth makes me dumbfounded at modern hockey skate design. It seems like the only way to achieve this forward/back motion with modern hockey skates is to leave the top of the boot looser (or skip lace eyelets altogether). This works decently enough for a while with high-end stiffer skates -- which will still provide a degree of lateral stiffness (until they break down) -- but it's not really an option for softer skates that need to be laced up tightly if you want any lateral stiffness. The same need exists with ski boots, and so they (sensibly!) have a separate lower and cuff, held together by a big burly rivet. Both parts can be tightened snugly, while still allowing that necessary fore/aft flexion. I know that Lange and Bauer Turbos have tried this but it never caught on. Bauer's new goalie skates do this. I've been told that the skate companies know that this would be superior for player skates too, but that the marketing teams say no way, that hockey consumers are too traditionalist. Do you think we'll ever see someone buck the trend and make a high-end player skate with a pivoting cuff?

Wow @Vet88 that is the thread I've been looking for my whole life, haha. Thank you for sharing it, and for your comments here. You're absolutely right about the best solution being to fix the body's alignment issues. As a competitive runner, I've been trying to address them for a while anyway, though I've never done the particular exercise from that video. I'll give it a shot. Like you said, the towel scrunching exercise didn't change anything for me. And insoles only seem to make things worse. All that said, I'm still going to try moving my blades. If for nothing else, to experience the sensation of being over the blades instead of being to the medial side of them. I agree with your point about how shimming adds an unwanted angle to the blade that moving the holder does not. I still might try shimming my right blade, because I'm extra knock-kneed on that side. I've never been able to do an outside-edge one-legged stop on the right foot. I'm curious if "cheating" the blade a little further over on edge would help. Thanks again for chiming in. I'd love to hear more of your thoughts.

Thanks @krisdrum for the thoughtful response. Sounds like we have similar issues. I grew up in Jersey, but now I live 2+ hours from any hockey shops, so the DIY help is much appreciated. I'm surprised to hear that they shimmed the rear post of your skates only. I'd think that would put weird torsional stress on the holder, twisting it and eventually making the blade loose. Do you know why they didn't do the front too? Did this cause any structural issues? I use the in-boot shims like you describe in my cycling shoes (and my ski boots) to great success, where like you said, the foot is pushing against a fixed flat surface; it brings my joints into alignment. But in my skates -- where the blade can pivot freely on the ground -- it feels like building up the medial side just rotates that outside edge further from the ice surface. Hence, the reason to shim the holder on the lateral (outside) half. Regarding remounting blades vs shimming, maybe I need a better understanding. It seems like they combat two different parts of the problem. Shimming seems like it helps bring the blade more perpendicular to the ice, so you have equal ease of using either edge. Remounting seems like it would be the better way to truly locate the blade under the natural balance point. (As for why this isn't done as much in hockey, I assume it's because hockey players are curmudgeons who won't buy anything non-traditional, and skates that easily allow this won't sell; it's not a matter of it being ineffective.)

Thanks @krisdrum and @caveman27 for the helpful suggestions! A little more background: I am knock kneed, I have poor forward ankle dorsiflexion, and I overpronate (i.e. I'm duckfooted). I played D2 ACHA and run pretty fast marathons, but there are some things I'd like to clean up about my skating (mostly the ability to more naturally use my outside edges). I have heavily modified my ski boots and bindings with lots of success. I also have dabbled with inline speedskating, where blade realignment is something almost everyone does. I have a 3D printer and am pretty handy with tools. I have my old CCM RBZ skates that I'm using as test mules before I take the drill to my new Supremes. So far I have: - Put in 6mm heel lift shims, and it has helped quite a bit to combat the poor dorsiflexion. - Tried Currex high and medium insoles (used to be sold as CCM) but they seem to make the edging problem worse. - Tried a million different lacing patterns. Soon I plan to try: - Wedge shims to change the lateral angle of the blade. - Realigning the blade by moving the front more under my big toe. Both of these last two things helped a lot with the inline speed skates. When I went back to my stock hockey skates, I felt terrible in comparison. Sounds like some True holders will allow me to more easily try some of these things.

Thanks! What do you mean by asymmetrical? Just that the stock holes don't line up with each other? Is it anything that would prevent me from mounting them on some Supremes?

I'm looking to remount the blade holders on my Supremes to combat some biomechanical issues, but there's not a lot of real estate left on the boot's outsole to move the stock Tuuk LS Edge holders. Do any other brand's holders have a narrower vertical part, thus making it easier to move the holder over and still get screws/rivets in? CCM? True?

Cool, thanks. And Lightspeed Pro is the same as the other Lightspeeds, I assume?

For a given Tuuk size (272mm for me), has the mounting hole pattern remained the same for all reasonably recent iterations?