Bladoww

Hey everybody - playing in a beer league and never gave a ton of thought about faceoffs... someone goes up to the dot and tries to win it. However this season there’s one guy who complains about how the player on the other team is handling things on the faceoff approach. Other than being a prima-donna about the whole thing, it did make me wonder about what the standard practice is. Best I can tell is this: 1) Center ice guest puts stick down first, and 2) Other than center ice, the attacking player puts stick down first. That jive with you guys, or does your league do it differently?

Ok I finished them. Took me a while but this was really more of an extra 'experimental' pair. Turns out that in the S37's that thicker portion does go around the entire perimeter of the sole as you say. So I was able to (barely) make it work. The heel was totally fine, but the forefoot presented a challenge... there was a large oval area that had no outsole plastic at all. It was more of a thin construction paper-type material, maybe for weight/cost reduction through using less materials. Either way they're good to go now. Think I found my new hobby!

Hey guys - I'm wanting to make a 2nd pair of skates as more of an experiment. I currently run some 9370 Tacks with my old Sure Grips on them and things are fine (I shimmed the heel too). I'm now wanting to build some Bauer S37s with the same frames... however the outsole of many Bauers have this recessed section running front to back (where it says "Bauer" on the outsole), and I'm concerned that I won't be able to mount the forefoot part of the chassis flat on the outsole. I can't find any pics of these with the holder missing to see what's going on underneath to know whether I should buy or keep looking. Here's a pic of what I mean... it's that shallower strip running between the forefoot and heel mounting points. I don't know what that looks like under the holders. Anyone know?

Hey everybody. I know this topic/debate gets beat to death in general (e.g. Graf pitch VS Vapors, etc. etc.) but I can't find anything specific to this... I got some new Tacks and while the pitch of the boot heel to toe is fine, it's the toe itself of the skate that isn't upturned like my old ones. In the new ones, the ball of the foot to the toe portion is very level and parallel with the floor, but in my old ones this space ramps up to the toe much more noticeably. In other words, the very tip of the toe is a good 3/8" higher than my new ones... and I think this is causing me an issue. It's not pain, but more of a balance thing. Just feels off. I feel like the balls of my feet (where I like the weight to be) is now more on my toes. Hope that makes sense. Anyone know what I'm talking about and if you do, how did you remedy this?

Ikr... or RR MB816s. I dunno I may not do it that now that I think about it. I weighed the whole setup and its slightly more than 9090s.

Hey gang so the project has pretty much wrapped up! I received my custom cut shims that I designed myself in Adobe Illustrator. I just had to do carbon fiber, because why not (also got delrin just in case), both at a thickness of 1/8". This also helped create the heel to toe incline that I'm used to. Nice thing is they came out to about $10 bucks each (the delrin was about half that). Due to size restrictions I had to design the carbon fiber shims as one piece (which is why they're joined below), but I just took a Dremel to it. Over-engineered? Probably, but I geek out on this stuff. I designed the shims to use two of the existing ice blade holder holes to act as stabilizers (two screws below). The goal here was to have the shim really be an extension of the boot, not just something slid between the boot heel and the chassis. BTW I'm using Tnuts and panhead hex screws (6/32 which are on par with what rivets weigh). Chassis mounted, overhang no longer a problem. Super stable with no rocking side to side. Old school meets new... H300 now on the 9370s. Took them out for a roll and they're amazing (forgot to get a pic with the wheels on... took them off because I'm getting new RRs that haven't come in yet). Also, while I'm being a mad scientist I'm going to try to run all 688 micro bearings with 608 wheels using Bont bearing adapters. Saves almost 50g per skate... I figure with the heavier chassis I can use less weight elsewhere lol. Hope this helps anyone else in a similar bind with shims. Any questions let me know!

Alright thanks guys. FYI I'm designing some vectored drawings of shims and gonna have them custom cut in carbon fiber and TPU (2 different sets to see what I like more). Will let you know how it goes if anyone's interested.

Ah ok I see those... some nice AS3s with the Hummr. Good catch. I have the 9370s so I don't have the composite outsole, but I don't think that will matter much. I may have to shim it then, would be my first but doesn't seem too hard. As for the Sure Grips I actually thought they were pretty angled. I had some Tour's years ago (which had the Hummr) and I felt like I constantly was going to fall on my ass because they were so flat. I'll prob go the Tnut / bolt method for added strength as well...

What up folks. Not sure exactly what to do here, but in short, I have these Sure Grips I want to use on some new Tacks and I'm hitting my head against a wall trying to figure it out. When I'm aligning the chassis heel to the boot heel (using the center point from the original holders), I get what I consider to be a significant overhang on the inside mounting holes. I don't want to move it further to the outside just to mount it because that'll jack up my skating, but I'm worried that if I mount it where it is the rivets/bolts won't get enough bite. You think I should just mount it in the right position regardless of that overhang and maybe epoxy in the gaps???