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Found 15 results

  1. PLEASE HELP!! I haven’t played hockey for about 10 years and I recently joined a league and want to use the same blade/curve that I previously had. After months and months of searching I’m starting to think this is the one thing the internet can’t help me with. BLADE/PATTERN DETAILS - •CCM VECTOR (brand) .... .... .... .. .... .... ..•FISCHER (Player Name) (Pattern) Anybody know the specs? Or the lineage of the pattern to what it is now? I JUST NEED A PICTURE OF THE CURVE! Or a way to buy it.. the exact one or an exact clone or as close to it as possible. PLEASE HELP!! Thanks for reading
  2. penguinpelts

    Straightest Blade today

    I saw some older threads that have been archived so I wanted to ask you all again: what's the straightest blade you can get today? Is it still Crosby? I did see Iginla's curve from a few years ago was pretty straight, but those are harder to find retail. I've been using a Bauer PM9 mostly, but is there anything straighter than that?
  3. WingerRK

    P28 Curve for shots...

    I've heard nothing but great things about the P28 curve and its wrist and snapshot benefits, but one question I have being a strong slapshotting defenseman, is it still a good curve? Like if I took a clapper with the curve, would it still be good or would it lift too high or not contact right?
  4. I am about to request an order from the Warrior Stick Customizer. The good folk at Warrior have provided this image, when I questioned about whether the W10 is a closed or slightly open or open face. I am also curious about its profile (tall, tall at toe, short at heel etc.). I know that this topic has been discussed ad nauseum, I actually did a search but the previous topic on this has been "Archived"). For those using the W10, can you please snap some overhead and side pics, and post so I can see if this is what I want? I use P88, which is perfect, except that I want the curve further down toward the toe, and I want the toe more closed. I want less distance for the puck to travel when I shoot wrist shots, and want my shots to be lower, without having to roll my wrists. The top overhead view looks perfect- very closed, but then the overhead view on the right makes the pattern look rather open. Can anyone please comment which is it? Many have directed me toward Gionta; someone said there is something about it that I may not like (something about the rocker or heel height I think), but for the most part, seems like this will work. I like the rocker of the W88, but the rocker of W92 was too much, so that I was fanning on passes as the puck snuck under the toe hen I tried to wrist pass. Just doing a bit of research before I make the buy: [URL=http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/IceCosmic/media/D5793D9D-2F21-4B27-A99B-32B34F79FC03_zps6ojhto3w.png.html][/URL] PS- Someone described us accurately at the end of this thread (last sentence), which I also stumbled on when looking into this question: https://www.reddit.com/r/hockeyplayers/comments/48j1bl/closed_or_neutral_toe_curves/
  5. MikeWhy

    Yakupov curve

    What are you guys' insight on the yakupov curve? Is it more like a Bauer Ovi or an e28(i dont like the ovie but am actually fond of the e28...dont know why.) this may impact my next stick decision.
  6. I play roller hockey in the spring for fun after ice hockey is over. And I was wondering if the tiles wear down a stick's blade? It may sound stupid but I don't use my normal stick and I want to start and help would be great! (blade is usually fully taped. Or far heel is left untaped)
  7. Goots_32

    Bauer Cuver

    Hey everyone! I was just wondering if anyone knew of any good toe curves that Bauer makes. I have used E28 with easton and didn't love it because of how open it was. So I wanted to know if anyone knew of any customer bauer toe curves. Thanks!
  8. I am looking for some advice from people who use what used to be easton's drury, or similar curves, an have experience with the various clones and variations. I am particular about details, as I know many of us are, and I am interested in the differences as to what is available now, since I cannot get my hands on too many of these in person. Big curves and toe curves seem to be pretty popular these days. I am seeing a lot of clones with a lot of subtle differences. easton p6 is almost a mid curve, slightly open, farily round curve, fairly round toe. bauer p91a is a wedge, starts very early, and less curve. more like an open p9 ccm/rbk p36a is almost a blend of easton p3 and p6 warrior w05 kovalev is pretty close to easton p6, maybe a bit more of a wedge warrior p12 wisniewski looks really close, but with a square toe (which i dont mind) sherwood has quite a few that are close pp10, 20, 26, 61, but 20 which should be closest (labeled "DR") is more like a wedge than a curve I could go on, but these seem like the most popular brands and options. If anyone has experience with these, i would appreciate some input as to what is closest to easton p6 in other brands. I do most like the looks of warrior w12 and sherwood pp61, as they are a bit more curved like my old favorite p3 type curve. My history with these curves... The short version: I used p3 as a shooter's curve and had a lot of success with it. Lately my style of play has changed a little and I find myself missing the net all the time, especially high and left (right hand shot) when shooting hard. p6 blade has helped a lot lately, and i'm shooting well and stickhandling a lot better. The long version: I started playing ice several years ago (after high school) with a sakic curve (on a chrome and blue colored synergy SL) after years of roller hockey with a jagr or lemieux (all time favorite) curve. I played well with the sakic for a long time, and when that stick broke (3 years maybe) I got into a sakic wood blade on a synthesis shaft. shortly after, i got a warrior dolomite with a draper curve, a little more exaggerated than the sakic, and the 2-piece became my backup stick. for some reason, i used the backup in a game and broke the wood blade, so i went online and bought 3 more. the ones that came were all marked p3 sakic, but were actually drury curves, just mislabeled. turned out to be a happy accident, since i am loving them now. with my backup sticks an unfamiliar curve, i was looking for a new stick, and my dolomite could become a backup. i ended up finding a kronik on clearance, same curve and flex as my dolomite, so i got it an had been using it happily for a few years. but recently i have been playing a bit differently, and i have not been in love with it like i was. i decided to try the drury curve again, wood blade in the synthesis shaft, and had been playing really well with it. it cured my shooting problems, and i was stickhandling with it really well. thinking about it, the blade reminded me a lot of the old lemieux i had. so now i want to try a modern one-piece with a comparable curve, or get ready with a replacement blade for when my last wood blade breaks. I know i like the easton p6, but i do not like a lot of the clones. the only one i can find in local shops (around Boston) with any regularity is the bauer p91a, which is a lot more of a wedge and not curved enough, and with a different profile and longer too. the warrior options look great, but not very available. without hunting these down, i would love some input from compassionate drury-curve lovers. also, thanks for reading the whole post, if you did. i hope the long version helps, but ill be happy to provide any other info about me that could help.
  9. cjm305

    Kreps Curve

    I know that I have read topics about this on these forums before making an account but I found nothing in the search bar, so here it goes... What retail options are available that mimic the pro stock "Kreps" curve? I know Easton makes the new E28 blade that is supposed to be pretty close, but I had a total one pro stock Tootoo from his Nashville days with the real Kreps and now that the blade is snapped, the retail Warrior Gionta curvesare close but they leave me wanting that glorious Kreps-ness... haha. Especially in regards to the toe shape and how it is kinda shaved underneath.
  10. So I have used MSH a lot for research with hockey gear and it has always got me on the right path with gear, so thank you to all the regulars. This question I have had a hard time with so I had to finally join. Skip to the second paragraph if you do not want the back story. I stopped playing hockey from about 2000-2007(no rink near where I moved, bad mistake). Then it was on and off until about 2012. From then on I have been playing regularly again(2-3 times a week). In 2008 I tried to move to Sweden and I left my gear with some friends thinking I would be back and that did not happen. So when I went to replace my stick I forgot what I was using last(I remember the shaft because I loved that Vapor viii)!!! So my curve search started. The first few I do not even remember because they were so off. Then it hit me, it was a Lindros! Well, old(99' 00') p88 and new are not the same. I got a dead stock off ebay and for the two weeks it lasted I was loving it, the blade length was longer, the rocker was a bit different and the curve was sallower and neutral, then the new p88. So I tried a p12, no rocker and blade was short so that did not work. Then a p38, curve was ok but the rocker was not right. Then I tried a Frontier blade I forgot what it was called but it was almost a p88 clone, lie and rocker was off. Then a pp26, rocker is nice, lie is pretty good but the curve is just to much. So I got the p38 out and shaved the bottom of the blade at the toe(rocker) to mimic the pp26. That was almost it. So the pp26 curve is not right, too deep and I like a neutral curve. Also when I go forehand backhand(full reach) I lose the puck, I'm not sure why. With the p38 after I shaved the rocker I can go full reach forehand backhand and keep control no problem. To review: P88 I lose pucks close to me because the blade does not lay flat in close like the old p88 did. More on passes and going to my backhand. P38 with a shaved rocker like a pp26 is close but I would like less of a curve and neutral but if I could fine a p38 with the blade shape of a pp26, I think it would work PP26 rocker is good but the curve is way off and I lose pucks going to my backhand but in close the blade lays flat on the ice Right now I'm using two piece with a wood blade but I need to move to a OPS. So I have been told because companies are cutting the wood blade. The only reason I use a two piece is every OPS I tried I can not feel the puck. So I hear Sher-Woods are better for that but any info on brands and models for a more wood like feel I would much appreciate. I do not even know if I'm looking for the right things in my pattern choice. Maybe I should not have the rocker and get a lower lie? I'm 6'4" and with my arms at my side my stick is a touch on the heel. I tried shortening the stick but it made everything worse, shot, stick handling, passing and receiving passes. I use my reach when stick handling, my slapshot sucks so I rarely use it, snapshot and backhand are good. So what should I try next? Also I would prefer not to have to cut my sticks to mimic the rocker. And the kicker, no LHS with a big stick selection near by(Seattle). Shooters is good but the selection is minimal and no more shooting gallery. If maybe you do not have an answer to my question but you know of a good shop that has a huge selection of sticks and a gallery to try some out that would also help(I will dive to Vancouver area or PDX). Thank you in advance
  11. Just wondering what the actual differences are between the W12 Pavelski and the W02 Lidstrom patterns. I took a look at the 2014 catalogue pattern chart, but it says that the W12 has a round toe and is more of a mid... Not too sure how accurate that chart is. Also, is the W12 still a clone of Wisniewski's pro pattern?
  12. Chris46

    Sakic vs Hall Curve

    Hi, I'm wondering how the Sakic and Hall curves compare. I had a go with a team mates Easton Mako stick last night at training, he has the E3 (Hall) curve. I loved how the stick handled and my shots were much better. I can't really justify spending that much money on a Mako and I've been looking at the Graf sticks. Graf do a 22 curve that it says is similar to Sakic, which I read somewhere the Hall is a clone of the Sakic curve. Is this true? I don't want to go ordering a stick that isn't going to live up to my expectations and perform like the Mako last night. Thanks, Chris
  13. Okay so im thinking about getting a ribcore...i used to use an apx ovie and i loved how the puck rifled off the toe but it would fly, you all know that. I also loved the independent curve, like how much it curved, not the open part but like..the horizontal curve, that make sense? anyways if i were to get the bergeron, would it go sky high like it does for the ovi? I just want a deep curve but its a little more on the closed side. can anybody give their input or pictures of something they have used. Ive watched the video reebok put out about the curve but i want some users to lemme know whats up. Also if i were to stick with bauer, same questions about the toews, would i be roofing that? thanks guys
  14. My apologies if this has been previously posted, I did a search and didn't come across it... http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/capitals-insider/wp/2013/10/01/adam-oates-and-hockey-sticks/ Interesting to see the amount of thought he puts into it, also recommending deeper curves for some guys.
  15. Hi, I have been searching for a while now, to a curve on Eastons lines, that is close to the Gaborik, I have a Sherwood stick with the Coffey curve, and it has done me wonders, but on Ice, I cannot really use a wood stick, and I used to have a Gaborik curve stick and that worked well also, do you guys have any suggestions on what I should do, I really like big hook curves and cant seem to find a good one


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