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dimpledballs

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Posts posted by dimpledballs

  2. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Sniper9 said:

    If you went from the first gen true holder and step steel combo that came with it, the xs holder and step steel combo shouldn't require mich adjustment. If you sharpened the step steel that came with the true skates as is and never profiled those, just do the same with xs holders with step steel. Not sure if step kept the same profile on their stock steel now as they did back then but if they have just get the xs hokders put on and add step steel, sharpen and off u go. Take it for a spin during a public skate and see how it feels. Shouldn't be that much of an adjustment. 

    I went from Bauer to true with their true holders and step steel and didn't feel like there was much difference in the holders. I went from the true holders to the ccm sb 4.0 holders and didn't notice really any difference either. So I think you're fine with just getting the xs holder put on along with step steel. 

    Step steel is still one of the best in the game. The only reason I'd recommend looking into anything different is if you wanted to try flare or bladetech steel which have different "performance" technology, but if you want something to simply replicate what you have now but just new holders, get what I suggested above 

    Sidelineswap may also have the holders you're looking for in good condition as well.  What size holders do you need? Just quickly browsing, I saw 3+ listing for those holders for sale. I would even check out your local shop that sells true skates as they may have old inventory. 

     

    https://unitedsport.ca/products/shop-true-senior-original-player-holder-edmonton-canada?variant=39526018482307

    Aight, I'll probably check out some step black steel to add to the XS holders. Personally I feel like all of these performance technologies is minimal improvement and not worth the value and I'd rather just get solid high quality steel. Good to hear there shouldn't be that huge of an adjustment, I'm going to skate on them tonight without any practice/public skate so we'll find out I guess. 

    Sidelineswap does have the true holders in 263 but I'm pinched for time because I have games coming up with no alternative skates so I ended up mounting some XS holders with XS1 steel which I'll have to replace soon with some Step. 

    Side note, if anyone ever happens to require holder repairs in the Seattle area, there's pretty much only one guy does it located in Olympic View Arena hockey wolf. 

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I recently broke one of my True gen 1 holders with the bolt lock on them and have decided to switch to the XS holders since the original holders are impossible to get anymore. I haven't been in the gear game since circa 2019 and I'm wondering what the best steel and profile to start with to experiment on the new holders. Back in the day Step blacksteel was the best steel but now I'm looking and there's a ton of aftermarket steel out there now. I've been using the stock step steel that came with my skates but now that I'm switching holders I'm interested in trying out other steel as well as profiles outside of the 10' stock. 

    1. What's the consensus on the best steel for XS holders? I'm looking for longevity and quality. I typically sharpen every 3 months with 2 skates a week and use a 7/8'' ROH on 263 mm steel.  

    2. The variety of profiling is even more expansive now, if I wanted to try out profiling, what should I start with?

    3. Going from the gen 1 true holders to XS holders, I'm aware that the true holders put you on your toes more than other holders/steel, what's a good profile that replicates that feeling incase I can't get used to the flatter XS holder/steel?

    Now that I'm doing my research again, it seems like steel/profiling is turning into a huge marketing cash cow with skates so it's pretty hard now to weed out all the marketing riff raff. I appreciate the help from everyone!

  6. Posted · Report reply

    9 minutes ago, Monty22 said:

    Is it just on the plastic toe cap area? I've seen a couple of goalie skates painted white. If it's in the plastic try putting some duct tape on the painted area and let it sit for a couple of days before ripping it off. I suspect a good portion of it will come up. Mabe attack the rest with acetone. 

    Most of the paint is on the toe cap, but you can tell that they very poorly masked the rest of the boot so there's some overspray on the side of the heel of the boot on the carbon area. Acetone was my first thought but I was wondering if it would have any effect on the finish or glue in and around the boot. 

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Does anyone have any suggestions for removing poorly done spray paint on the toe of the boot and all around? I bought a used pair of goalie true skates and I'm wondering if there's a solution to remove the paint without damaging the rest of the boot. It's just a cosmetic issue and if I'm unable to find a good solution I won't bother, but it's an interesting problem none the less.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I can't speak much to warrior pants. The only pro stock I've ever tried on were a pair of medium franchises and they fit way too large for me. Protection-wise, they seemed very solid. Everything in warrior that I've ever tried on ranging from pants to gloves to helmets has given me the impression that Warrior gear is definitely targeted toward big build people and since I fit "slim" for most things, nothing warrior works for me.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    HP30 and the HP35 are more or less the same pant. They are the same as the HP520 pant with upgrades.  There's a few minor differences such as the +1 zipper or zipper on the legs that one or the other might not have but fit wise they are the same and fit like traditional pants and are medium on the weight scale.

    HP70 is very much a traditional pant and is a copy of the old Tackla 7000 / 9000 pants if you've ever tried those on. They fit like tanks, look like tanks, are as heavy as tanks.

    HP45 and HPUCLP are the CCM RBZ/UCLP equivalent pant. They are the lightest pants on the market and provide adequate protection as well as seemingly(I don't have proof but there are very few other models used for CCM) being the most popular model CCM pant used in the NHL. UCLP is the older version and are a two piece pant (uppers and lowers can be separated). HP45 is a one piece pant usually with the +1 extension. The lining material on both the pants is slightly different and the lower back protector is also different, but all both pants function roughly the same. 

    Most pro stock enthusiasts that use CCM pants ride along with the trend and prefer the HP45/HPUCLP model over the HP35/30/70. The lightness of the pants with good protection(enough for NHL players to use) makes it the clear cut choice. 

    Sizing for the HP45/HPUCLP gets wonky because both pants fit a little short and small. I'm assuming "36-37" is your pants waist size and not your actual waist measurement. So, a large sizing guideline is 34-36 and XL is 36-38. Based on the small fitting of the HP45 and your waist size, I would go for an XL. However, since you're also 5'9 (me too but my waist is 31 and I fit a medium HP45 snugly), the length of the pants maybe too long. I find that being 5'9'' myself, the medium HP45 is just perfect with the +1 extension so XL for you may be too long.

     

    • Like 1

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Does anyone know how the sizing goes for the HPG12/HPG13/HPG14 line of pants goes? I believe Fit 1 is 30'' - 32'' waist and then each fit above is in 2'' increments. However, do the pants fit true to size? My only reference is player gear where I fit a medium HP45, good enough in a med 9k girdle, and snug in a small 9k girdle. 

  11. Posted · Report reply

    43 minutes ago, z1ggy said:

    Did you try going up a size in other gloves already? Were those all 14''?

    Going up a size would cause my fingers to be too short to reach the tip of the fingers and also cause it to be more loose. I'm already on the slender side which is why I prefer the anatomical fit gloves so going up a size would make it much harder to fit gloves. 

     

  12. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, Asian Tomatoe said:

    Another suggestion is to try the new CCM FT1 gloves. They have a bit more open flare in the cuff (along with it being flexible) than the Quicklite and is closer to the cuffs on the APX2 but the overall fit is quite a bit more snug than the APX2 all the way thru to the backhand. I have the pro stock version of the FT1. These are my favorite pair of gloves along with the CCM HG97/98 series.

    Haven't had a chance to try on the new CCM Super Tacks AS1 gloves but those are supposed to be really snug which might be more in line with what you're wanting if you're looking at the MX3/1S line of gloves.

    The FT1/Quicklite line is definitely one of the lines that I'm interested in once I find a pro stock pair. However, I need to go try it on in store to see if it has the same problem as the APX2's. When I tried them on before, I never paid any attention to this specific problem, it's only now that I used the QRL's a few times on the ice that I noticed how annoying it was. 

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Looking for some glove fit advice. Right now I use a pair of retail APX2s. My problem with them is that when I bend my index finger, my finger lands along the gusset or gusset/palm seam. You can see where my index finger and how it pushes against the gusset when bent in the pic below. I also own a pair of pro stock QRLs and a pair of 1S's where the QRL has the same problem but the 1S fixes the problem more or less. However, with the 1S, it is very broken in and doesn't contain poron liners which I think has made it fit too loose for me. 

     

    So, given the situation, what should I do in terms of finding a glove that fits like my APX2's but is narrow enough that I don't have the finger problem. 

     

    1. Find a pair of 1S/MX3's with poron liners

    2. Find a different pair of gloves that fit more narrow? I'm thinking quicklite or tacks or HG12? Or other suggestions?

    First photo are the APX2's, second photo is pro stock QRL, third photo is a pro stock 1S (From Chris Wideman if it makes any difference). 

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/hUwyk5dpw8EEaYvj6

     

    I'm tired of doing the carousel of trying to find a pair of gloves that I like so that's why I'm asking for some advice other than "buy and try all of them". I'm mostly interested in finding a pair of pro stock gloves so I'm not limited to retail offerings.

     

  14. Posted · Report reply

    A player cam would be cool but I think the logistics of having 12 different camera operators solely dedicated to specific players/positions on the ice is not viable for the production teams. There's no demand for people watching specific players and positions like nascar. That's why most productions only have player specific cameras when it comes to the big stars for each team, otherwise the rest of the footage is captured by the ice-level cameras and the main gameplay camera. 

  15. Posted · Report reply

    17 minutes ago, yychockey said:

    Ouch. That makes it that much harder to wait. You and I have identical dates on every step...except yours are finished!

    Well, shipping should be way quicker for you so don't be too discouraged! Remember that the normal wait time would be a month or more.

    11 minutes ago, Nicholas G said:

    Standard shipping. Usually, 5 days unless they get slowed down when processing through customs. 

    That's unfortunate but I'm still excited for them nonetheless!

  18. Posted · Report reply

    On 11/27/2018 at 7:03 PM, JR Boucicaut said:

    All you've been saying so far still tells me you should explore the orthotic route.  And there's very well a good possibility that you will still need it with custom skates.  In a custom boot, the goal is to not have negative space; but in your post, you're asking for negative space.

    To clarify, I'm looking for a boot that has even more space at the bottom of the arch so that I can flatten out my arch rather than having extra negative space in that spot but I do understand your point.

    On 11/28/2018 at 5:32 AM, Vet88 said:

    Orthotics in ice skates do not fix pronation. In a shoe the orthotic has the ground to provide the support it needs to shape the foot. In an ice skate a 1/8" wide piece of steel does not provide the support the orthotic needs so your foot will still pronate. You need to either 1: move the holder inwards 2: shim the outside of the holder 3: learn to skate with your laces undone 4: buy the stiffest boots you can with the narrowest heel you can fit into and when they start to open up after a short while then buy a new pair. Anyone who wants to sell you orthotics on the premise that it will fix your pronation in ice skates is just selling a dream.

    I have tried shimming my foot by adding extra insole to the inside of my foot near the arch, both along the entire length of the boot and only in the heel area and have had no success with that as the pain was even worse. I have not attempted to move my holders inward as I'm hesitant to permanently effect my skates before trying out all other options.

    Additionally, I have consistently skated with the top eyelet empty for a year or so but I just recently tried lacing fully to the top and roughly half the pain has alleviated.I still feel the pain in the arch area with pressure pushing up toward my arch. I'm currently already skating in a pair of stiff skates (Nexus 8000, has curv) so I wonder if this revelation provides any insight to my problems.

  19. Posted · Edited by dimpledballs · Report reply

    20 minutes ago, Wolfpack_1986 said:

    The orthotic might save you money in the long run. Won't need to get fit for each new pair of skates. Sounds like it was just a suggestion, because even customs won't solve every issue. To each their own.

     

    19 minutes ago, IniNew said:

     

    Is the problem the orthotic was going to solve something that True can solve with a fitting? My understanding of Orthotics is it helps fix pronation, and your ankle rolling one way or the other because of an improperly fitting footbed/insole. Is that your situation?

     

    11 minutes ago, JR Boucicaut said:

    When I was fitting skates, customs were a last resort, especially when it was something that could be solved before going that route.  

    I don't throw out recommendations for people very often; it's very hard to find a fitter who is willing to work out issues rather than just taking money from a customer.  That's why Bret's on my extremely short list.

    Yeah, I have pretty bad pronation that flattens out my arch. You can see the extent of the pronation from the Bauer Scan. If I skate hard, the part of my arch closest to my ankle presses against the boot and gives me a crap ton of pain. I'm currently in a pair of 7EE Nexus skates where I've tried superfeet/ccm insoles/speedplates all of which were not effective at combating the pronation. Additionally, the 7EE skates are slightly too narrow at the forefoot so I was hoping to fix that as well.

    I was hoping that the custom skates would make a pocket of space where my ankle/arch can rest against without being jammed against the boot to help relieve the pressure. 

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Just now, JR Boucicaut said:

    Is PH Rockville on the list?  Bret's a good dude, and a MSH member.  I've consulted on his fittings back when it was a TH; now he's cranking them out consistently.

    Yeah I've talked to Bret, his first suggestion for me was to go for a skate orthotic before trying VH. I was initially going to go with his advice but if a skate orthotic is going to cost upwards of 300-500$, I'd rather just get the skates. 

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