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Leif

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Posts posted by Leif

  2. Posted · Report reply

    The ProSharp has the better warranty for the home user, three years or 5,000 cycles compared to one year or 10,000 cycles. Few home users will exceed 5,000 cycles in three years. The Sparx warranty is potentially better for a team. I suspect both are easy to clean. The ProSharp is quite a bit smaller so easier to carry, but the Sparx is significantly cheaper, and I've seen no evidence that it is less well made. That lower cost is a big advantage. 

  3. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, ZamboniFever said:

    Leif,

    Please know that ProSharp's claim is not false.  They just define things differently than we do.

    In our case we consider a sharpening, from a labeling standpoint, to be a sharpening that has 4 cycles on each skate.  They describe a sharpening (indirectly... in their labeling) as 1 cycle on each skate (about 1000 cycles on a grinding wheel and about 500 sharpenings per wheel).  Neither definition is wrong - they are just different.  We chose 4 cycles in our definition because that amount of material removal is similar to what one would need to remove for a skate that was being sharpened on a pretty typical 4-8 hours of skating interval.  Read below to see why this might not be the best way to describe a sharpening and why we are probably doing ourselves a disservice in our marketing because we say on our packaging 40 sharpenings per grinding ring.   In reality, most Sparx users will get far more than 40 sharpenings per Grinding Ring.

    I personally get between 60 and 80 sharpenings on a Sparx Grinding Ring.  Here's why...  Once you have sharpened your skates AND if you have a sharpener easily accessible AND if that sharpener is super easy to use you WILL absolutely sharpen your skates a lot more (we hear this feedback from so many customers... skate sharpening frequency goes up because why would you ever chance it if it only takes a couple minutes to put on a fresh edge).  I find I sharpen my skates every time (or every other time) that I skate.  Because I am sharpening more frequently - I only need to make 2 cycles at most on each skate (less damage to the blades between sharpenings means less material removal needed).  This means I am getting about 2X as many sharpenings (80 pair) out of a grinding ring vs the specification on the Grinding Ring box.

    I hope this helps clear things up...

    Thanks,

    Russ

     

    Hello Russ, I was indicating that ProSharp's claims are misleading. I can see that my post could be read as suggesting that they lie, that was not the intention. I too like sharp skates, and a few passes each week would be ideal. 

    But you still haven't answered my question about European sales. I know you read it!  :laugh: Patience is an overrated virtue ...

  4. Posted · Report reply

    On 15/12/2017 at 3:06 PM, ZamboniFever said:

    I would like to help anyone considering these two products.  Full disclaimer - I am the CEO of Sparx and a MSH member.  Sparx and ProSharp Home are BOTH good products.  That said, there is some misinformation in this thread that I hope I can clear up.

    You cannot directly compare Sparx to ProSharp on the amount of sharpenings per wheel that each company advertises the life of their wheels at.

    Reasons:

    1.  The two machines remove different amounts of material per pass.  Sparx removes more material per pass than Home.

    2.  The two companies advertise different numbers of cycles required per sharpening.  Sparx says you can sharpen 40 pair of skates with 4 cycles on each skate where ProSharp says they can sharpen skates with only 1 cycle per skate.

    These are not apples to apples numbers so you cannot compare the two numbers directly.

    How do you compare Sparx vs Home?  Remove the same amount of material from a piece of skate steel, with both machines.  Then compare the cost of the grinding wheel consumed by each machine to remove the same amount of material.

    We have done this head-to-head test of the two products and Sparx comes out cheaper than Home for the same amount of material removed.  Please keep this in mind when considering the two products.

    When comparing Sparx to ProSharp Home you should consider the above and then also consider other details/differences between the two sharpeners.  Each of the features below is exclusive to Sparx.

    1.  Sparx has a patented alignment system that eliminates the trial and error alignment steps that makes skate sharpening difficult.

    2.  Sparx has an on-board dust collection system which traps the metal dust generated by the sharpening process

    3.  Sparx has a safety glass front door which allows the user to safely watch the sharpening as it is happening.

    4.  Sparx offer the FIRE (flat bottom) profile which has been proven over the last few years to be one of the best flat bottom profiles out there.  We have a youtube video explaining the FIRE profile if you want to learn more about it.

    5.  Sparx has electronic lock-out safety covers which cover the open slot around the skate reducing operator exposure to moving parts.  Important if your sharpening is stored in a house where others may have access to the sharpener.

    6.  Sparx has numerous accessories like a loose blade holder which make sharpening Bauer Lightspeed Edge Removable steel, without the skate, really easy.

    Lastly, Sparx is used by thousands and thousands of customers all over North America and we also have hundreds of pro shops and teams using Sparx (see our "Find a Sparx Near Me" link below).   We highly encourage hockey players everywhere to visit their LHS to get a Sparx Sharpening.  If you don't see a Sparx Shop near you on the map please reach out to help@sparxhockey.com for help finding one as new shops are being added every day.

    https://www.sparxhockey.com/pages/skate-sharpening-near-me

    We also have a bunch of NHL teams and hockey skating coaches using Sparx now with their athletes.  We have many videos on our YouTube channel where you can check out interviews with some high end Sparx users.  Lastly, our roster of NHL player-owners is also growing every day...

    I hope this extra information helped.

    Thanks,
    Russ

    I have pointed Prosharp to your post to see if they think it is fair, though you make some very interesting points. However, the EU has very strong consumer law and making a false or misleading claim opens them to prosecution, and hence false claims are rare. I have asked ProSharp about their 500 pairs of skates sharpened per wheel claim, and how many passes they assume.

    Lastly, you said somewhere that you will soon release the Sparx to the European market. Can you indicate whether this will be in a month, 3 months, six months, a year, or several years time? And have you finalised who will be the distributor?

    • Like 1

  5. Posted · Report reply

    On 12 December 2017 at 11:26 PM, jimmy said:

    Yes. The Prosharp Skatepal is an excellent machine. Not a cheap imitation like the Sparx, which basical copied proshops design. The Skatepal is a very durable machine and they've been making them for over a decade. They are the same Swedish quality as their proshop versions, just scaled down and simplified for the home user.  Their diamond wheels can sharpen up to 1000 skates, as opposed to 40 for the Sparx.  I would strongly recommend the Skatepal.

    When you sharpen your skates on the Skatepal, how many passes do you need, assuming you're not changing the radius of hollow? 

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks all. Some very helpful posts. The point about the bulk of the pads is a good one, I can do a good ACW crossover without pads, but with pads it's tough. So more practice then. :smile:

    I don't know why but I found on Saturday and this morning that my skating felt far more stable and confident. I still can't turn to the right well with the puck, hi ho, practice makes perfect. 

    On 16 December 2017 at 10:30 AM, Vet88 said:

    When you go to a public skate, you control the time and space of your skating eg when to move, how fast, when to stop etc. So you always seem to be in control and balanced. In a game, which should be a faster pace, you are having to react to the situation eg stop, turn, accelerate etc when you are not expecting it. Your balance, skating and timing gets disrupted and until you become a better skater you will continue to struggle. Bottom line is practice, practice, practice. As you become a better skater it gets easier. Skating with a stick in hand does help a lot. Skating with kit will get you used to it but at the end of the day it's how well you skate, not the kit you may or may not be wearing.

    And when you go to a public skate you need to work on your skating, not just skate in circles around the rink. Edge control, one foot balance drills, unusual skating positions, even figure skating moves (eg a 3 turn), all so you develop as broad a base as possible of skating skills. Youtube is a great friend here, type "Advanced edge control drills" into you tube, find drills you have never seen or done before then go and practice them. Or ask a coach to give you some drills, everyone I coach gets drills to work on when they go to public skates, all designed to make them a better skater.

    What you say is so true. I tell friends this when they tell me I am a really good skater during public sessions. As you know  it's not false modesty. I think the athletic skill of hockey players is often overlooked. 

    I already do as you say, and study You Tube. Today I did forwards inside and outside edges, and backwards inside edges. I am struggling with backwards outside edges, and fell several times today, and backwards crossrolls are but a dream. I'ver conquered the forwards one foot outside edge hockey stop, left and right, and backwards inside edge one foot hockey stops. I can do a 3 turn on my right foot. I was doing backwards figures of 8 today and the precision is improving. I will search YouTube for Advanced edge control drills. 

    I do wonder if one on one lessons would help. We only have figure skating coaches, but one teaches hockey skating youngsters. I already do the drills she teaches, which is why I hesitate. 

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I'm a decent skater, and I can do hockey stops forward and backwards for example, but I still have a lot to learn (backwards to forwards transitions are poor for example). Anyway, I find my skating during a game is not up to the standard when in a public skating session. I assume this is due to the weight of the padding and helmet, and the stick. Could it in part be due to restriction of movement by the kit, in which case would higher end and hence more felexible knee pads help? Or looser socks? How do people improve their skating during a game? Is it just a case of practive, practice, practice with full kit and stick? Obviously ice time in kit is limited, though it is possible to go on public sessions in kit, albeit a bit odd!!!

  11. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, Playmakersedge said:

     

    Well I imagine that they aren't taking cash out of pocket to demonstrate these products.. And they may even be getting paid to show the product.          The guy that did this video all the video I see he does is about product reviews or pitching. 

       The hockey movement person or people.  Jeremy brings alot of teaching along with the product  introduction. And he gives a true opinion of the products .And the guy has skills ,has wheels and hands . He can actually test the performance of a premium skate . I. Like how he goes to camps and clinics and shows power skating. The power skating people inviting him are a bit circus like with the hydra blading, jumping over the stick as skating, demontrating movement at speed.  To teach it ,the best way is to do it slow  break it down into steps.  And it can't be taught in groups more then three ,because corrections need to be made as the movement is being done .      Jeremy puts out a vibe of cincerity. 

    As far as automatic sharpening machines, I don't get the appeal  . You can do a better job with a manual machine, lower operation costs.  And if you are mechanically inclined enough to change a toilet seat you have the capacity to learn how to do a decent job playing around with a pair of cheapo skates a few evenings.   

    To answer the last point, I was going to buy a Wissota, but it can't be kept in my unheated  garage. So it'd have to be indoors, and given that it is big, and messy, that is out of the question. So an automated machine is the only solution for me. And I like the fact that it can give a blade a few passes without me having to think in a minute or two. 

    Regarding Chris Kibui, I think you are unfair on him. I've watched Jeremy at Bauer behaving like a kid in a sweet shop asking no critical questions. Chris is I think no worse. His review of the Sparx and ProSharp Home machines is informative. And yes I do like Jeremy and Ken's videos, excellent stuff. But Chris is okay too, a bit wordy at times, but it's free tuition for some of us. Regarding sincerity, well it might be a case of patriotism perhaps, we tend to favour someone with our own accent/dialect. Just a thought. 

  13. Posted · Report reply

    20 hours ago, Playmakersedge said:

    I stumbled on a video of the British guy who does hockey tutorial I think it was called.  He did a comparison between the sparx sharpener and the expensive automatic home sharpening machine.  My impression was both did equally good jobs.  The sparks sharpener had a short wheel life and the wheels are more money . I can't remember the average amount of sharpening per wheel exactly I think it was 40 for the sparx and 200 for the more expensive brand.   I think the sparx machine is going to have failures when it gets used beyond what it's designed to do is be a family sharpener.  That's no fault of the company. It may create warranty repair or replacement because the machine was used for a team or commercial use. They may have to make the machine more rugged and increase pricing to survive  

    I'm not sure if you were suggesting the Swedish unit is more rugged, however as it is made in Sweden, and the Sparx in China, the higher price of the Swedish unit need not translate to a more rugged unit, the price difference could be due to higher manufacturing costs. 

    Anyway, my last three sharpenings were all bad. Two from the good sharpener were both out by 4/1000" which is bad, and one from another recommended place was 3/8" and not 5/8" as requested, leaving me unable to skate. I had to have them redone the next day. It's starting to look like a home sharpener is the only way to ensure good sharpens. 

  14. Posted · Report reply

    13 hours ago, shoot_the_goalie said:

    Interesting to see that the majority of the higher star rated helmets are pretty much doing away with high density foams, and going back to mid-density foams or using the specialty foams like Poron and D30.  I wonder if that means the shells themselves are bigger to accommodate that.

    Not necessarily. I have some padded shorts that I use for public skating and they have a D30 insert. It's thinner than the foams typically used in impact shorts, presumably because it is more effective at absorbing shock. The foam in my Bauer helmet - the old 4500 that scores poorly - is quite thick, and much thicker than the D30 pad in my shorts. D30 is quite expensive, so that would add significantly to the cost of the helmet.

    What strikes me (no pun intended) is that although the padding would spread the shock, it surely would have an insignificant impact (no pun intended) on the deceleration forces experienced by the brain. In other words, an unprotected head would on hitting ice suffer a shock wave  and a deceleration. A good helmet would reduce the shock wave, but have little effect on the deceleration. I'd like to be proven wrong.

    I must admit I do wonder about helmets. I play non contact hockey, but a week back when going slowly I had someone skate into me at full pelt, and I recall the sound of my helmet hitting his, followed by me falling backwards. I had a headache the following day. These bangs do concern me, and I'd happily pay more if I knew the helmet provided more protection from head injury.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    I bought some inserts and I used them for a few months. They did improve the psychological feel of the skates. But I stopped using them and I don't miss them. Maybe my balance has improved, maybe I'm used to the void above my toes, who knows. I know others who have them, so they are not uncommon in the UK among rec players.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, Playmakersedge said:

    I'm not a fan of automatic sharpeners .there is alot of plastic in the machine.    Skate sharpening is easy to learn.  

    I can get you a professional quality sharpener for  $ 1850 with travel case ,edge checker, honing stone,took kit . It weighs 65 pounds in the case . The thing to do is have your close hockey friends go in on it . 8 friends go in on it and it pays for itself fast . And when you sharpen your own it only takes a couple of passes to sharpen them .  I use the machine as a professional  SSM2 

    I considered a manual sharpener. But it needs its own heated room, it's messy, it's very heavy so cannot easily be moved about, and it takes time to learn. I have one pair of skates to sharpen, and no-one to teach me, or spot the mistakes I make and reinforce. So a machine makes sense. As to them being made of lots of plastic, there is a rec team in the UK who own both Sparx and Prosharp machines, and they take them all over the UK and even overseas, and they say they are both robust.

    • Like 2

  19. Posted · Report reply

    9 hours ago, stevebalchunas said:

    Well, the honest answer is we're spending time on this almost daily, but it's hard and there are a lot of moving pieces. Russ talks about it a bit in his video here. I don't want to put a date on it since we do that a lot and tend to miss our targets. It's coming, we're just not sure when. 

    As for pricing, our goal is to keep it as low as possible, similar to what it is priced now in the states. That being said we know there are going to be costs associated with us actually getting our product over there and distributed, so I'd expect to see that also rolled into the price. I'm sorry if it seems like we're playing a broken record on this one, but we haven't forgotten about our European friends. 

    Thanks Steve

    I realise these things are dependent on people outside of your control, but do you have a handle of whether or not you expect to start supplying UK/European customers this year, or next year, or the year after?

  21. Posted · Edited by Leif · Report reply

    On 19/09/2016 at 4:08 AM, Stanley said:

    I used speed plate for about one week and realized my 1x 37.5 liner was cut and destroyed in the areas where plastic works against the liner.Also understand that this plastic does not have any vapor holes and the water accumulates in the hill area and plastic works its way to drill a hole and destroy your skates even more.  Moisture has nowhere to go if you use speed plate. And it's too hard plastic in soft 37.5 liner that are not on the same page. Bauer needs to come with more complicated product, that is to have soft edges so liner integrity is not compromised and have moisture exit holes.

    My skates get very wet inside, irrespective of the insoles used. All I do is pull out the speed plates when I get home, and they dry out just fine. As someone else said, just push on the opposite side to the arch support, and then slip a finger under the arch suport, and pull the insole out, easy peasy. I have not noticed sweat unduly collecting beneath the speed plate. I skate for an hour or two in public skating sessions, and I am learning to play hockey, so moisture build up might be more of an issue to more serious players.

    The problem I have is that I use the PowerFoot inserts. They are great, but they soak up sweat and get very very wet. They take ages to dry out. This is a serious flaw IMO.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    A bit of an old thread but I'd never skate without these insoles. I bought mine a month ago. I have dodgy knees, and bought them to support my arches. I'd tried Yellow Superfeet but they gave me lace bite as they lift the foot up and pull the toes back. Last week I forgot to put the Speed Plates in my skates before leaving home for the rink and the difference was dramatic, I had far less control on the ice, and felt decidedly less at ease.

    I can imagine some people would prefer Superfeet, presumably they have deeper skates (or shallower feet) so the extra depth of the Superfeet would not be an issue. Similarly some people will prefer Speed Plates. I'm not sure it has been mentioned here, but Superfeet will refund your money if you do not get on with them. I took mine back to the local sports shop (UK based) and they refunded me, no questions asked, all I needed was proof of purchase.

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