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Leif

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Leif last won the day on November 22 2018

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Equipment

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    Bauer Supreme S160

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  1. I am told that CCM black steel is painted and comes off easily. Surely if a steel is harder, it is more liable to break?
  2. I’ve worked for more than a few small(ish) companies whose owners were fattening the company up so it could be bought out. Maybe it would be to our advantage as Sparx would then benefit from CCM marketing and distribution channels.
  3. Has anyone created a real ice pad in their garage/basement? And if so what are the running costs?
  4. Curious, I've taken slap shots to my 1S shin pads and felt nothing. They have expanded polystyrene and Curv composite so they should absorb shock. Which part took the hit? Maybe there is a weaker area.
  5. Yup, Sparx here too. Next best purchase is top end skates. However, my best money spent award goes to skating lessons which are massively improving my skating.
  6. My 2s Pro came with a card stating that they can be baked up to three times. I think the temp and time were 80 Celcius and 4 minutes. I know someone who baked his skates in a gas oven and the flame melted the rear! Why not email Bauer?
  7. I have Bauer 2S Pro skates which have a carbon fibre shell. Baking speeds up the shaping to your feet although they will gradually mould to fit with use. Some of these carbon fibre boots, especially Trues, are very heat mouldable and my guess is that they might never achieve as good a fit without heat forming. (It isn’t really baking since the temperature is so low, more a case of thermoforming. But the term baking is in common use by the manufacturers.) Of course it depends on how good a fit you get out of the box. AFAIK there are no downsides to baking as long as you don’t exceed the recommended temperature and maximum number of bakes.
  8. I wear Merino wool ski socks. Very comfy. But I wear through socks very quickly.
  9. I bought some Bauer ones and they are awful, totally the wrong shape for my feet. They assume pointy toes, not flipper shaped feet! I like woollen ski socks when the rink is cold, they keep my toes warm.
  10. Absolutely nothing wrong with that except that the wheel won’t last as long. Whether or not that matters is for the owner to decide. Certainly if I was playing a game, I’d do a pass, but I just do scrimmages and training so I don’t.
  11. I'm gradually weening myself off of the 1 sharpen per session crack. I'm down to on one pass every 3-4 hours and thus far I've not gone cold turkey. As for haircuts, if only I had my own Sparx hair trimmer life would be so much easier. Mmmm, now there's a new product idea for them ...
  12. The cost analysis obviously depends strongly on many factors. In my case the LHS I trust is 25 miles away, so to get a sharpen requires two 25 miles drives, and a wait while they sharpen them. There was usually a queue. So it would wipe out a morning, and cost £10 or more in fuel and car overheads. The sharpen is now £8, so the total cost is at least £18, let’s say £20 in round numbers. One sharpen every two weeks works out at £500 a year. The machine will easily pay for itself in three years, and that’s ignoring the benefit of getting my Saturday mornings back, and always having perfect edges. Even the LHS I trust had destroyed the profile on my last set of blades by the time they were replaced.
  13. This has already been explained to you by a Sparx representative. Please learn to read. The rings are IDENTICAL apart from the packaging. The only difference is the ESTIMATED number of sharpenings. When I questioned this, I got an email from Sparx and a post here too: I saw no need to make ridiculous remarks about Sparx or to falsely question their integrity.
  14. HockeyTutorial on YouTube have a review of each machine, and a head to head review. They like both. Ring costs work out similar (ProSharp claims make it sound like they last much longer than Sparx rings). The only advantage I could see is that the ProSharp is half the weight, and much slimmer, so if you want to carry it around, it would be the better choice. The Sparx is mostly made in China (maybe partly assembled in America), the ProSharp is made in Sweden, Chinese production costs are much lower.
  15. There is one small bit of truth in your rantings, namely that changing the estimated number of sharpenings on the box from 40 to 60 is potentially confusing. However, the rest of your ranting is just nonsense, you seem incapable or reading the other posts that correct your misunderstandings. You’ve made your point, so why not move on? Oh and I do agree that Europeans pay a lot for the machine compared to North Americans, and yet at about £1200 it is much cheaper than the ProSharp. Why is it so expensive here? I assume that is because Americans buy direct, whereas we buy from an intermediary who has to take a cut on each machine sold. It is also possible that Russ at Sparx had a bad experience with a European and is taking revenge. Probably not. It’s still worth the money IMO.
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