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Leif

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Leif last won the day on November 22 2018

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    Bauer Supreme S160

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  1. I agree that one sample doesn’t say much, but I was adding to the comment by PBH who does see lots. I handled them, and the tongue was very hard, I can see that would be a pain point for some. FWIW I’ve never heard complaints about other Bauer skates or True customs.
  2. I was chatting to someone who has a pair. They’ve been back to Bauer UK three times, he hates them. The holders were misaligned, the shells damage easily, and the sides of the tongues are hard and dig into his feet causing pain. Pretty much matches the comments by PBH.
  3. I’ve since done several sessions at a rink with good ice, and I was okay in full kit. The local rink wasn’t so bad last week too. I’m convinced the ice was ‘off’, very hard perhaps. I do like slightly soft ice. As an aside, anyone know what hollow Crosby is currently on? Someone told me a coach weened him onto a flatter hollow. I’m sure he was on 3/8”.
  4. I grew out of yellow laces in my early fifties. Standard white unwaxed for me. I also don’t have lights underneath my skates. Or large furry panda ears on the sides of my helmet.
  5. I recently went from 7/16” to 3/8”, I’m 5’10” and 11 stone 7 pounds (161 pounds), I much prefer it. So I might end up trying 5/16” after all. My local rink has hard (cold) ice.
  6. That’s a good idea. Thanks. Much mire convenient than actually wearing kit too.
  7. Thanks all, I’ve been learning four years, and this seems recent. This evening I was at a different rink, I was fine. All I did different was tie my laces with tongues flopped, then tuck them in. I also went to a deeper hollow, from 7/16” to 3/8” which I really like. I am starting to suspect the ice is the issue, it’s really bad ice at my local rink, goalies slide backwards due to the slope, there’s a 3” water filled rut around one edge which is quite dangerous. A team mate who used to be the ice maintenance engineer said it was very brittle last Friday. The slopes might also be to blame. I’m back there on Wednesday.
  8. It’s not doing crossovers that is the issue, that’s okay, it’s when doing something like forwards power pulls or forwards cross rolls, the balance is lacking. I will try wearing pads and shorts in a public session and see how it goes. They don’t like too much hockey kit, except for the little kids in full kit, who shoot around getting in everyone’s way.
  9. I’m a decent skater, I take weekly lessons and I practice a few hours each week in public skating sessions. So my forwards and backwards crossovers are pretty good, and hockey stops and tight turns are not a problem. I started doing some of my skating drills, such as forwards cross rolls, and forwards power pulls, during the warm up period at the start of our drop in scrimmages. Anyway, I find I struggle to do my basic drills. Is this because the weight of the hockey kit is throwing off my balance? In which case I need more practice in kit. Or is it the constriction of movement caused by the shin pads, socks and shorts? It could also be the restriction of movement of my ankle due to the shin pads, I have the pads over my skate tongues. I might try tongue flopping and see if that makes a difference. I suppose I could try public skating with shin pads on. Incidentally I’m in England, and hockey ice time is scarce, hence why I skate mainly in public sessions.
  10. I cut holes in my hockey socks and shirts to reduce weight. Of course Jewish and Muslim men have another weight advantage, but I won’t go into details here, let’s just say there are some weight reduction measures that I consider too extreme.
  11. Indeed. And then Bauer copied Step steel with higher runners, and improved steel. So back then noone noticed a difference going to heavier runners, and yet we are now told that weight is a significant factor. I’ll just stick to ordinary non carbon runners made from decent steel.
  12. Exactly. And how does that figure compare to traditional steel runners, which of course never break. (Irony alert.) I presume aluminium runners are a no go because they wouldn’t hold an edge. Has anyone ever taken a traditional runner, and milled away a significant portion of the metal? I imagine a lattice structure would preserve a lot of the mechanical properties whilst reducing weight. Perhaps it is too hard to do economically, as stainless steel is not an easy material to machine, especially the hard kind used in runners. For higher end players these light runners might decide a game, but for average UK rec players (no idea about US and Canada) they’d be better off getting power skating lessons, learning more hockey technique, going to the gym, and losing weight, as suggested earlier. Oh, and another point. I remember when Step steel became popular, in part due to the increased height. That of course meant more steel and more weight. People were saying Step was so much better than Bauer steel for example. Now it seems that weight is no longer good, it’s bad. I’m confused … Maybe what we are seeing here is the applied placebo effect.
  13. I’m not suggesting that a skiiled sharpener routinely or often makes mistakes, the ones I trusted were very good, but my suspicion is that a human cannot maintain a truly constant pressure across the entire length of the blade. Over the course of a year the very tiny differences in the amount of metal removed lead to a noticeable change in the profile. I might be wrong - I can’t manually sharpen skates, and I’ve seen no research studies. Sparx make similar claims, admittedly they’re not a disinterested party. It’d be interesting to know how NHL equipment managers sharpen blades. Do they run blades right down? Do they regularly reprofile them? Do they routinely check the profiles? Are they so good that the profiles don’t change?
  14. Even my good LHS never did a perfect sharpening. In my experience the Sparx does the closest you’ll ever get. The profile is preserved, the edges are level, what’s not to like? Before I got one I drove 25 miles to get a sharpening. 50 miles round trip, a morning written off, petrol and car to pay for, and sharpening to pay for. There’s almost no learning curve with a Sparx. But do buy the edge checker ie BAT gauge.
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