PUCKSTOPPROSHOPJL

Hopefully their profile in fresh so can give them an actual profile, not something that has been reshaped by skate sharpening.

You could do it with this. https://prosharp.us/collections/spare-parts/products/copy-device

Picture looks very much like a ProSharp Quad .5 (8/10/12/14)

Do you know what was on the Vapor for a Profile ?

I read this a few times. Unfortunately, there's a lot going on here and it's difficult to give an opinion without having more information. What were you skating on before you? What type of skater are you? The only thing I can offer is this, the QUAD I will feel long on a 272 holder. I find its best for 280 to 288. For a 272 holder, Zuperior S, Quad Zero or Ellipse Zero are the best. Once you fine the profile line, adjust up or down depending on whether your looking for agility or stability. Quad .5 isn't talked about much here, but my experience as a pro shop owner is Quad .5 work really well with Defensemen from 5" 10" or taller and about 180lbs and above. I have 5 elite dmen skating on Quad .5. Definitely fills a gap between Quad Zero and Quad I. My defensemen on Quad .5 (Holder size 272 and 280) skate in the NESCAC, NCDC, ACHA, EHL and high school. No forwards currently skate on Quad.5. Hope this helps.

Good advice, I couldn't agree more

I get blades sent to me from all over. With your story (what you feel on the ice) I could make a recommendation and reprofile your blades or at least recommend what to tell a pro shop to do. goggle it

Deke, I appreciate your comments and I think we're getting to a core issue. When I was Army test flying helicopters, we always started balancing a rotor system by first hovering, putting grams of lead weights on or off the rotor first to "balance" it at a hover. Then we "track' the blades by fixing the "gap" bringing the together by adjusting the Pitch Control Links, before we even start to fly it. This could take a day but was an important step. Getting things to straighten out at a hover BEFORE even flying was an essential first step. If we didn't spend the time on the ground first, it would NEVER be corrected by flying it in the air. This brings me to my point, Blades in the air or blades on the ice, you have pro shops that are throwing you into the air before knowing anything about how you feel on the ice. I start with you standing on your skates with a single radius and tell me WHAT you feel. Where is your center of gravity (GC). Then we slowly work through what you're saying by trying single or combination radius first. Correct yourself first by going back to a single radius. Find your CG, then start adjustments by moving a pivot point, fore or aft. Now, more acceleration, try a combo 10/13 with "YOUR" pivot point, we continue to work like this until the skater locks in something they like. We work simply and slowly at first, then go more complex and quicker downstream. If you're having problems with your blades, have the neutralize back to a simple profile and work outwards from there. I work with D1 hockey players, juniors, high school et. I use this method and give them a "testing" profile which is pre-profiled so costs for doing this are low. Once the skater is locked in, that's when they get charged for the profile. Same cost as if you sent them in the mail to me.

The ProSharp Profiles are an advancement over single and combination radii profiles. Those were the ones that may have also 'pitched' a blade. With 3 radii on the Zuperior's and four radii on the Quads, those radii change the angle of the blade in reference to the ice. In other words, each section of the blade with a different radius would have a different angle on it. That's where the 'pitch' comes from. Traditional 'pitch' pitches the entire blade with the same angle. Now the radii on each section of a ProSharp blade have each their own 'pitch' or a better word would be angle of attach vs the flat ice. This is where I think some get confused over multiple radii vs pitch.

I agree 100% This is the way it should be done.

ProSharp is now owned by Bauer. Bauer is working with Pure Hockey and Monkey Hockey. Just like when you bring your skates in to be sharpened, you have to look at who's doing the work. Reach out if you have any questions about the on-ice process. Others have figured out how to get in touch with me. Its in the title.

I charge 55 and that gets you the testing on ice and 3 profiles. I'm here to help the community not overcharge it.

Problem with guessing what you 'may' like vs actual testing on different profiles until you find one you like. Helps if your proshop is in a rink like mine.

Pivot Point and Pitch are two different things. Pivot Point is the lowest part of the blade, unless it is moved, it will always be in the middle of the blade of the blade is a single radius. ProSharp moves the PP a little rearward 12MM to 20MM depending on the blade size. Put your skate centered on a pencil. The center of gravity is straight up. Same if you standing on the ice. Now move the skate forward on the pencil. What happens to the skate, It will fall forward... Pivot Point the CG. You feel like tipping forward. To fix this you move your CG by lowing your truck. You have changed your CG by lower your truck, AKA a hockey stance. That is what PROSHARP has been getting you to do. This is NOT pitching the blade. It feels like that but actually pitching the blade would be pitching the entire blade. On PROSHARP profiles the different radii have different angles of attack on the blade because of the size of the radii.

I'm confused by the term 'pitched' vs 'Pivot Point'. To me these are two difference things. Pivot point is the lowest part of the circle. Prosharp moves the PP anywhere from 12MM to 20MM depending on the size of the blades. Pitch is something that a PROSHARP AS 2001 can do but it's applied to the entire blades at the same time. AS 2001 can pitch a blade from .001 to 1.5 DEGREE'S. That is a 'PITCH". Not sure what measuring at two different points on a blade will do as far as pitch. With difference radii applied to the blades, you will have less or more steel in portions of the blade, whether its a 6 ft radii or a 20 ft radii. Some needs to fill me in on what I am missing.

The problem with using a digital caliper, and I have one, is the top of the blade is not a straight line, its curved along with the blade, so its difficult to assess accurately if your truly getting the right low point (or pivot point). So learning this the hard way, I find the best way to assure an accurate starting point is to reprofile the blade using the method I have described. This works best for me and its what I teach in the shop. Hope it helps..

I've been following this thread since this morning. I'm a pro shop owner and work with both PROSHARP AS 2001 AS and Sparx Sharpeners in the Boston area. A couple of things jump out. First off, blades do not have to be trashed just because you don't know the history. PROSHARP has a process and charts on how to set up the machine for a previously profile blades with either the QUAD, ZUPERIOR or ELLIPSE. If the owner doesn't know or you don't know where the pivot point is, you can use a piece of paper ( I use yellow sticky notes) and on a flat surface, try and located the PP. Now, saying that, I'm not a big fan of this. What I like to do is rebalance, rematch the blades together in the AS 2001. Then I put back on either a 13, 11 or 10 radius. What that does is assure you where the PP is back in the middle before you start a more professional profile like the QUAD's or Zuperior. Now I've also discovered that I can save some metal on the blades if I'm going to put on a ELLISPE by using the previously mention method depending on the size of the blade you're going to work with. I've also started using the Detroit 1 (a 10/20 combo radius) if I'm doing a ZUPERIOR profile or a 10/13 combo if I doing a QUAD. All this is an effort to give the customer the best possible outcome. I have elite hockey players who are D1, D3, USHL, NAHL. NE PREP and NE HS players routinely testing profiles on ice at my proshop. So accuracy is as important to them as it is to me. I hope this helps.

There're not going to give you the blueprints so you can start making them yourself. You either have to skate with them, or fine someone else who can skate and give you feedback. That's what we do, we ask people to skate with profiles and give us honest feedback. I have all 3 on order, delievery should be first week of DEC.

I got this from PROSHARP> This Video may help a lot

Ellipse Zero – Elliptic value closest to zero (a circle) – also meaning it’s the shortest profile of them all. Currently making it the most agile in the series, while packing the dynamic punch that all Ellipse profiles do. We've taken inspiration from the Quad Zero on this one, making it best suited for skate sizes 7-8 (only a recommendation). Ellipse I – The in-betweener. Best suited for skate sizes 9-10 (only a recommendation). Ellipse II – Elliptic level furthest away from zero. Meaning it’s longer, making it more powerful, but still agile. Best suited for skate sizes 11-12 (only a recommendation). The key feature is the seamlessness of the profiles. This gives the skater the feeling that they always have the optimal ice contact for each on-ice action. All Ellipse templates are built in with a pitch (-20 mm), good to know when re-profiling an already pitched blade.