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Posts posted by jmaister

  1. I was collecting some new dead stock skates to work on the insoles.. the skates I came across was the S180 and S29, both are 8.5EE but the boot cuts are very different.

    just by dimension the S180 was significant deeper than the S29, and the S29 felt close to the X3.7 in depth...

    So here is the question, are the Curve boots naturally wider? (Even CCM's normal width in "game ready fit" is wider than D in 485/475 from test fitting...)

    *i am 8.5 ee-ish, fit 3. With Mach boots I could fit 7.5 fit 3....just to throw this into the mix.


    Edit: ehm.... More of a brain fart post now reading it. Pls ignore. 

  2. 1 hour ago, Vet88 said:

    This solution still depends primarily on the boot providing the support. You can do all the shimming / posting / fiddling around you like but if the boot doesn't provide the almost perfect fit, it's all basically useless when under power on an edge, If you are a skate fitter, this is the easy fix because it gets the person back on the ice with some improvement but long term I hate it because it hinders their development in the future.

    The workaround is to straighten the heel bone yourself using your muscles, it isn't hard, it's one simple exercise. Then the forefoot will untwist and lie flat as long as you focus on keeping the ball of the foot on the floor. Then you can strengthen the arch because it's intrinsic strength is missing due to it's new alignment relative to the heel bone. A strong arch is critical to keeping the heel bone in neutral alignment when you are deep on an edge under power.

    Now you have actually fixed your pronation (I don't say fixed your flat feet as flat feet on their own are not necessarily an issue) both on and off ice.

    very true, aid will only be effective if the foot is trained to work with it. I found my big toe and the arch still work very hard when skating. What a feeling tho, that flow.

  3. 5 hours ago, caveman27 said:

    If you feel like you are getting pushed forward and tripping over your skates, you would want negative pitch. If you feel like you are getting pushed backwards and can't hold a deep forward tuck like a speed skater, then you would want positive pitch.

    If you feel balanced, but want to make deeper/faster turns and doing choppy/quick east-west skating, then you will want the front profiles shorter. If you want to glide longer for efficient north-south skating, you want long rear profiles. Sometimes, you can keep your current profile and alter the ROH, radius of hollow, for more glide or grip in hard turns/stops as an easier way to adjust for harder or softer ice.

    i thought forward pitch(toe drop) is negative? backward pitch(toe lift) is positive? inverted no?

    since the Prosharp profile says negative to the profile that shaves toe off? I think i am confused now...??

    anyways, I still find myself on my heel more than I like. I may do either Quad z or Zup S next time. or add another layer for my footbed since I kinda believe profile only the workaround....


  4. hello gents and solid water gliders.

    I have just started on the 9/10 combi, originally from a single stock Bauer radius. I've also got a pdf of the prosharp template list and visited the prosharp project feedbacks, they are very very helpful(esp. Marka's).

    The question  I have is, is there a sequence of profile I should try if I want more forward lean? (like Graf's; i know i know, the boot cut itself is aggresive)

    I'm thinking I'll skate with the 9/10 for awhile and then move on to Toronto 1, and then Quad Zero or Zup S.

    feedback appreciated.


    **is there such a thing, where I could request single radius, but with -10mm pitch?



  5. 8 hours ago, BenBreeg said:

    Not entirely clear what you are asking but:

    What does, "prop the boot on your calf" mean?

    Outside edge, forward turns the weight is driven through the back part of the foot, outside edge, backwards you are using more of the forefoot.

    The ankles need to roll to get on edges, which is why you need some mobility there, not only forward but laterally as well.  

    Figure skating is great for edge work, but also keep in mind their maneuvers are different, and done in a different posture.

    Do you lean on the edge of the skates? That's why comfort edge is preferred by some?


    And yes, foot work. There is little no visual instruction as far as searches go.

  6. umm. I have watched many many drill videos. Even figure skating ones on technique...

    but no one has covered what the foot actually does inside the boot.

    ie... outside edge, are you suppose to prop the boot on your calf?

    Which part of your forefoot is stressing when you are holding the edge? is the heel active?

    ... etc etc


    or the foot in the boot topic we dont talk about, they just work... or dont?

  7. 3 hours ago, flip12 said:

    What is your foot type? What’s wonky about your feet? I didn’t see you added felt. Where did you add it and what for?

    A lot of questions, I know…

    I’m a Graf nerd of sorts, have a collection of 701, 501, 707 and 703 all in size 10 (gave up on G35x because their Graf-CA build and design quality was dreadful). Where this might be relevant to you: I’ve been on the fence with my 703s because they’re much more snug than the others and the heel padding felt too low the first time out…like they were causing the skates to tip side to side like crazy. After giving them a couple more chances I’m wondering if they’re not actually going to fit perfectly after a few more hours of ice. Right now they have less than 5 hours on them. The heel padding feels amazing now, my big toes are just about 1mm too jammed…

    All that to say, if that heel padding isn’t lining up right it might only be a matter of time before it takes a set to your bone structure and the heel fit is right as it should be.

    I have thought about that. Older skates takes real break in "efforts". Yes sir.

    I (edited) "most definitely" should lose some weight too.. Thats another story.

    My feet originally have very low arches, not unhealthy, just low. But after decades of misuse, they gotten severe flat.

    So the felt roll 1/4" orthopedic purpose I bought serve as work around, since no amount of podiatrist and custom insole would help. They would help those with arches, I got none. Custom soles are too thick, won't fit. And then expensive.

    Reason for this is, I find I am not activating my metatarsals... And from just reading articles, I think i have smaller heel than retail footlast, and centre of gravity is all messed up due to pronation. Heel lift in the right place is the start. Experimenting with felt is to mimic normal foot function(but in my case, normal is wrong, I have to mimic pronated function). Yes, will need to do exercise, but sometimes exercise will only close the gap but even then there is still some gap.

    Bauer and ccm make their skates with ideal feet in mind. True make their skate with realistic foot in mind. Graf seem to make their slightly different. Their pitch is also to activate the metatarsal, but the angle is not for me. So I have to mod the footbed, and therefore this post.

    I got them right with my smu vapor somewhat. Just working on the Grafs now.

    *why felt pads. Because with rubber or plastic I don't have the tools, and space for chemical molding. But with felt pads, you can trim/tuff them with a electric clipper. I got a cheap pet clipper to do the shaping. I think i going to do this to all my shoes. The goal is to trim until it feels right.



  8. 4 minutes ago, Sniper9 said:

    I've seen ultra high on Amazon but I'm using amazon.ca. But not sure if you want like 200+ kg/m3 or if this 85 kg/3 is sufficient.


    I haven't actually purchased this but I've favorited in the event I need it in the future. 

    EVA Foam Cosplay - 1mm (1mm to 10mm) - Black or White - 14" x 39" Sheet - Ultra High Density 85 kg/m3 - by The Foamory https://a.co/d/5suEHSx




    that will work! i will take a look.

  9. 21 minutes ago, Sniper9 said:

    You try speedplates. The first generation (if you can find them). They are thin and mold to your feet. 

    Alternatively if you don't require any arch or heel support you can just cut out a thin 1-2mm high density Eva foam. Stock footbeds essentially are just foam with no orthopedic support anyways. 

    I'm Trying to find local shops that sell ultra high eva for cosolay, since they are stiffer. All local shops have is craft grade.... Which fold and wrinkles...

    And Amazon doesn't specify which is ultra high

  10. 5 hours ago, flip12 said:

    What model and liner type? How much have you skated in them?

    735 pro. It's not for my foot type. But I heat gun the darn thing so it kinda works, and already sunk too much coins for this(since I always wanted a black leather look with cobra holder). But, if it could have a thinner footbed, it be perfect.


    And because I have wonky feet. I adde the felt insert at the bottom, which raises the footbed abit. Hence the search for thin stuff.

    • Like 1

  11. Bought a pair of new old stock grafs...the ankle cushion is very good, but too good. I am finding I need to drop the footbed by couple of mm... Since these footbed came with are abit thick.

    Is there a place to buy old Bauer/ccm footbed? Or ones that's thinner?

  12. CCM's elbow and shin guard is more accommodating for bigger arms and calve(mine anyways, love the stretchy straps). Bauer tend to be a little short, stock vs stock speaking. Of the big names CCM is more considerate with the placement of plastic armor and/or foam, big fan of their JDP stuff.

    The recent Vapor Fit 3 in the flex comp I cant say enough good things about them. 

  13. On 1/27/2023 at 7:07 AM, smcgreg said:

    A point I got tired of making years ago.  I wonder how many people have been made worse by inserts or orthotics and haven't realized it? 

    In most cases, moving the blade is the only good fix.  (which presents a major problem in most modern skates)

    multi quote bugged so another post here.


    Yes I have read orthotics doesnt really help since one would stop training their foot muscle. And blade alignment seem to be an issue retail skates doesnt address due to their mounting method(other than Graf, and high end only). Speed skating and street skating has exposure to this problem; different foot width, different centre of gravity. Bike fit has shoe fit session too, I wonder why Hockey hasnt got in depth like those sports.

    thx for the input so far.

    *after trying different insert on and off in the last oh.. i dont know how many years. The trick to compensate flat and pronated foot is to fix the heel. You cant jack up the arch above what the foot naturally has, and jacking up the arch isnt the solution. Since ligament is stretched, the workaround is straighten the heel bone with shimms/felt padding/custom foot post. The forefoot will do the rest after thats fixed.

  14. On 1/25/2023 at 9:28 AM, Sniper9 said:

    Orthotics?  Personally I'd consider orthotics or shimming the holders. And if you're serious about fixing the problem, doing the foot exercises to improve/reduce or even eliminate the pronation. 

    I tried superfeet..no go... and then I recently added some padding to the stock footbed so i have lifted heel...

    Result I could do T stop zomg... i may have underdeveloped heel bones.


    and yes, i'm looking into varus/valgus option, but as you mentioned maybe its my right foot muscle thats not trained enough. will look into it.

  15. On 1/24/2023 at 10:45 AM, beedee said:

    I know TRUE sizing has been a huge point of confusion, and I recently measured my foot on their brannock at Hockey Monkey and the size it showed was actual .5 to 1 size larger than my Bauer size (7 Fit 2 Vapor 3x and 6.5 Fit 3 Mach), it shows me in a 7.5. Is their brannock sizing to be taken as a grain of salt, and more of a "starting point" (similar to what many say the Bauer scan should be viewed as). Since the TRUE brannock is blue, is it fair to say that this was created for their TF series? Should one subtract 1 full size from what the TRUE brannock says? Most here in this thread understand the TRUE boot (and other brands) will open up a bit after the bake. Do you guys believe brannocks are created with the sizes placed on them prior to a bake?

    Earlier in this thread (I think?) I shared my sizing experience across the TF and Cat line, and its been noted that many believe the Cat line sizing has been updated to be more in line with Bauer and CCM. Regardless of what a scan or brannock says, I suppose the bottom line to an extent is everyone has their own preference as to how snug or not a skate should feel, with the general consensus of toes brushing the toe cap as the "proper" fit.






    If you have European feet and have BMI less than 25%, high arch, long toes, ridgid and doesn't expand when knee over toe, aspect ratio is long and narrow. Brushing against the toe cap is the rule. Since the foot last were based on these foot type. North American/European sport, naturally these kinda feet.

    Its also important to line up your metatarsals so the arch length is correct.

    The ideal branoock device would be if the device has a step heel built in, since flat measuring vs in skate size, IMHO, there is some difference for feet that aren't ridgid.

    I think the issue can come from translating flat measurement to boot size, and then boot manufacturing technique may influence the fit some what.


    • Like 1

  16. 4 minutes ago, Sniper9 said:

    Have you tried speed plates. It'll conform to your foot/arch and if you only pronate while taking strides and with weight bearing then the speed plates will support your arch in the position it's at when you're standing. But the speed plate 2.0 is softer than the 1.0 and may not provide as much support. Doesn't solve your issue but I found it did help me. Mind you my pronation is minimal and only on my right foot. 

    speedplate not as popular in my LHS, I have to special order it. My right foot is the problematic one even when standing. so far I have punched the boot to... fit 4 dimensions i suppose. I have a felt roll sitting around I think I can try mimic the function of that, thx for the idea.


    5 hours ago, Vet88 said:

    Read my post on pronation, do the ankle straighten drill on and off ice. Learn to balance properly over the skate blade by dropping eyelets over time. Straighten up your foot and a lot of those niggly fit issues begin to disappear.

    And if you do want to punch / stretch your boots yourself I have posted in a previous DIY punching at home thread how to do it and the tools I have used.

    Long time fan of your post. Will review those thread again. My left is better because of those. just right foot...and getting old an fatter.

  17. 36 minutes ago, IPv6Freely said:

    That's not exactly true with modern boots. It certainly used to be true, but nowadays boots are made to be baked to heat mold to the foot. You're completely right that it's not going to make a poor fitting boot fit, but saying it's just "to speed up the lining material packing process" aka breaking in, that's not giving the modern foams enough credit. 

    Of course there are some that are known to be significantly more heat moldable than others, like the TF9. And certainly the Mako back in the day. 

    Tf9 rocks...all high ends do..


    If I can only fit them...

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