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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble


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  1. Somebody already suggested this on Mar 22 2008, 03:25 AM - In fact I think it was you!!! - And Chadd shut you down with a comment something like "...we can't devote a whole forum to cutting an OPS..." But I do want to keep this thread going, until we beat it down real good. Then we can summarize all our ideas and put them on a 3x5 card. We are looking foward to your pics and details of your OPS cuttings soon!!! Just like taking apart a golf ball, the fun will soon end.... I saw on YouTube the other day how Easton and CCM actually make OPS's - CCM showed how they put the blade into the shaft. Easton did not show this, they said it was "proprietary". LOL.
  2. yea, yea pics and details - Were addicted now to cutting OPS's, its not hockey anymore its a science. LOL Like they say, "One mans trash, is another man Treasure..." or better yet "Ones mans broken one peice, is another mans two peice..." LOL Yea, I hurt my back one day pulling out a blade, and I said, "enough is enough" - Then I went into a "think tank" while walking around hardware store.
  3. Its not everyday that one gets a "free Dolomite shaft"
  4. Wait....don't bring it tonight - you can still save it!, by cutting a little bit off the end, so there is no more cracks - then maybe put a longer plug in the butt end...I bet you only have to cut maybe 1/2" or so off. Its your choice man, but it prolly still have a little life in it.... Also if its a "tight fit" you can sand down the taper a little bit to make it fit, that is how I make my "standard" Sherwoods 950's fit in the Easton taper...lill elbow grease.
  5. This is the setup I can use to pull out a blade/tenon from an OPS, first you have to cut all around the stick at or near the fusepoint, cut at a depth of the wall thickness. Then you heat the blade near the tenon - and let the "Samson" setup do its work. It works good because the vectors of the force are at 180 degree's with no slop angles. Pure force baby! You have to ask yourself why hurt at wrist, shoulder or back while trying to create a stick which need those very joints for a hard shot!! LOL
  6. Yea I got a decent plastic spreader for $8 at a harbor freight store near my house. Maybe those metal ones are more sturdy... I found it online for $3 at harborfreight.com keyword "spreader" I will try to have my "whole setup" pic by next week, I will have to borrow my friends digital camera - and him and I have a big hockey game sunday so I will see him.
  7. yea C-Clamps can be used, and I a cut up old wooden hockey shaft about 2 inches long so the clamps don't ruin the shaft and for a good stoppage wall for the spreader - I don't usually care about the blade, because its toast. Usually you have to clamp down hard to get no slippage, and sometimes for real tough jobs I use rubber material on the shaft to avoid any slippage. After that its "Samson" to do his deed.
  8. This image of the "spreader" will make it more self explanitory. I put a soild clamp on the shaft, then another solid clamp on the blade. Then I put the "spreader" in beetween the two clamps and start pumping, The STOP A, will then contact the clamp on the shaft and stop, the STOP B will contact the clamp on the blade and stop - then a few more pumps will create a "Hercules" or "Sampson" effect and push the blade out...Just like Sampson pushed the two walls down in the Bible story in Judges 16:29-30
  9. I use something called a "spreader" you can buy it at any hardware store. I use 2 clamps - one on the blade, and the other on the shaft - Then you put the "spreader" in beetween the clamps - and start pumping - Which makes the "spreader" bigger and bigger - until the force against the 2 clamps pulls the blade out. No shoudler injuries, no back problems - no wrist issues. Just pump.... http://www.toolbarn.com/product/irwinquickgrip/550QC/
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