Blade-Tek

I also like the HDI, accurate & fairly robust, though overkill unless you sharpen for earnings, also works very well for FBV wether ensuring the hollow is all gone, or ensuring it is all back. Here is an alternative for replacing the magnetic angles for the BR that is inexpensive. . . a trip to your local Home Depot can get you the same aluminium angle (4 or 5 ft of it) for $5 or $6. . . . 10 minutes with a hacksaw & file, swap the magnet and cover onto the newly cut angle with 2-way tape and voila. . brand new angle for the BR. I replace mine about every 1000 pair or so. . . .

Actually there was some credibility to their document, although I can't locate it anymore, they must have pulled it. When the BS first arrived I ordered up a small handful of spinners and after reading the BM sheet, I thought what the hell and since I had an in at a military technical unit, I had the spinners measured up with their laser equipment. . . . the BM document was pretty well on. . . the BS spinners were no where near their aclaimed tolerances. . . let's face it, they claim in one document to have 100/50 & 100/75 etc. . the 100 being thousands of an inch wide and the 50 or 75 being in 10 millions (their website)of an inch deep, their tech sheet claims the 75 or 50 is in one hundred thousands. Give me a break! Unless you did as I did and have them measured up with laser technology, you will not know. I'm afraid your standard micrometer isnt going to cut it here! According to the military the spinners were plus/minus 25% Thats right TWENTY-FIVE % !! {largest tollerances found were in the depth} I have the spinners and use them when clients are eager for an FBV, but with the blade thickness differences, it is a real pain in the a$$ to set up each different pair to ensure centering on a spinner with a +/- 25% tolerance. I offer it to clients only if they insist. . .and caution that it is not near as accurate as acclaimed. These are the facts. I know it is the popular thing these days. People can be readily sold on almost anything. . . . I mean look at Bauer selling people the crap metal in their Lightspeed Pro holders...... some of those are like grinding plexiglass !

Great Photo NATO - However one cannot really tell from observing a photo. This is something that must be measured. The toe and heel not being ground away is GOOD. NGO_35 is quite right, simply place the skate blade on a flat surface such as a steel table top or granite counter, you then can observe and measure fairly easily where the blade and the flat steel surface meet, in your case this should extend for 45mm. If you note & mark the start and end of where the blade and flat surface are in contact, this represents the glide surface and should equal 45mm. Your CAG profile number indicates that 25mm of the 45mm should be forward of the center of your blade, giving you an almost straight up pitch. I am unaware of your skate blade length, however I will guess that it is somewhere around 255mm. (A size 6 1/2 skate perhaps ?) Most "D-men" seeking profiles at my shop wish to maximize manouevreability; in a 255mm skate blade length I have found great success with a 20/40 profile. A little less blade contact which provides the D-men a little extra in manouevreability. In contrast a forward with the same skate will likely desire more contact for increased speed and opt for the 30/50 profile, with a definate forward pitch. Hope I wasn't too confusing?

Actually, hockey skate blade manufacturers 'standard' process is to achieve about 17% of the blade length as a glide surface centered within the overall rocker. They DO NOT do a very good job in the manufacture, unlike figure skate producers. Blades in fact are not precisely profiled or ice ready when new. Is this absolutely needed - Of course not, however it is recommended to have this done. . . for the skater's benefiet. (Of course this benefiets the pro-shops as well. BlueIce - for a youth I suggest going for 17% glide surface; if the player is "D" get a straight up and down pitch, if he is forward go for a slightly forward pitch. . . . . Also avoid places that will simply grind off the toe to make it less "square" that is NOT PROFILING or rockering, that is ruining the skate blade - plain and simple. :D Have a happy day