Warrior AK27 shafts

[Knuckles 0]

I've been checking out some shafts and blades at the LHS and the Warrior AK27 was highly reccomended.

I'm know nothing about Warrior products. would you guys reccomend that particular shaft model. the one I saw was a flex 100.

I liked some of the blade patterns, especially the Federov.

thanx

[hockeymom 2]

Funny no one has done a formal review of Warrior products yet.

Not sure if you have already done this or not, but here's a search of related threads:

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari...=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

[Knuckles 0]

Funny no one has done a formal review of Warrior products yet.

Not sure if you have already done this or not, but here's a search of related threads:

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari...=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

thanx hockeymom

[mack 44]

We've got reviews of their product, it's just still under their Inno name.

[hockeymom 2]

We've got reviews of their product, it's just still under their Inno name.

Oh thanks Mack... my bad, put it down to having a "brain-fart"...LOL

[sabre09923 0]

Well, we do have Warrior formal reviews, we do not have any on the Inno Commander, which is the AK-27.

[kosydar 0]

Funny no one has done a formal review of Warrior products yet.

Not sure if you have already done this or not, but here's a search of related threads:

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari...=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

I need to use my AK-27 a couple more times before I can review it.

[Knuckles 0]

taken from another thread...this is exactly what I was looking for

AK27 description

The overall design of the AK27 is that of a Low Kickpoint standard shaft. The AK27 utilizes a compression molded process (the highest quality method available). The composite layers of the shaft are designed to place the kickpoint as low as possible on the shaft. This allows the AK27 to do two things: 1) There is very little torque or twist along the shaft when the blade strikes the puck. This keeps the puck headed the direction you intended. 2) The release becomes lightning fast. Think the end of a whip popping. The puck comes off like a bullet out of the barrel of a gun. One thing that you will find with Warrior sticks (just like the old Inno's) is that they are extremely consistent. Warriors reject guidelines are twice as strict as any other stick on the market. This applies to the stiffness (yes - EVERY AK27 shaft that comes off the line is tested for stiffness). So when you get in an 85 - you can be sure that it's right on the money.

[DamnLocust 0]

note that most people find that Warriors feel stiffer than their advertised flex, as compared to eastons. I haven't had a new easton 100 flex anything in awhile, so i can't compare my Dolomite to anthing other than a vapor xx 102 and xxx 102, and they're pretty much the same. The fedorov blade is a modano clone with a slightly lower lie. My dolomite blade's a tank too. I believe the construction is the same for the AK27.

[Knuckles 0]

think I'll go back to the LHS tomorrow and give that combo one last hard look.

[mack 44]

Yeah, I don't see where people automatically assume these are the same as the old Commanders at all. Why would Inno, er Warrior, make the same stick one specific player had rather than the shaft that was used by a few players?

[magnanto 0]

I have some 2 cents - the shafts are great - i love them (only tried the grip shaft) - but found that 51" is a bit short for me personally - but that's okay. It's the blade you need to focus on - the Warrior lies on their website are mostly wrong - check the pattern db here on msh - they are more accurate.

I'm taking a darn grinder to my $60 blade and it'll only last a handful of games under those circumstances - don't make the same mistake...

[Knuckles 0]

someone needs to give me a few pointers about lies and all. I'M totally lost. lie 4 lie 5 lie whatever.

is lies for dumbies available somewhere? ;)

[DamnLocust 0]

I'm taking a darn grinder to my $60 blade and it'll only last a handful of games under those circumstances - don't make the same mistake...

after grinding the blade, try using a fiberglass patch/repair kit or some epoxy to seal the carbon on the bottom. At the least, it will keep water out (when water gets in and freezes, it expands, weakening the blade) You might be better off buying something else and throwing that blade up in the sell section or on ebay.

someone needs to give me a few pointers about lies and all. I'M totally lost. lie 4 lie 5 lie whatever.

is lies for dumbies available somewhere? 

Lie is basically the angle made where the bottom of the blade meets the hosel/shaft. Look at your old sticks. If you're wearing the tape out evenly, you're using the right lie. If the heel has more wear, you need a lower lie for that stick length. if you're wearing the toe, you need a higher lie.

Instead of changing lies, you can also change stick length. if the toe wears more, you need a longer stick. if the heel wears more, you need a shorter stick.

If your current blade wears evenly, check the pattern database to see what lie it is, and compare that to the lie of the Warriors. When at the LHS, compare the lies from the warrior and a new version of the blade you currently use.

Since you said you liked the fedorov, I can give some insight on how it compares to similar curved blades. I have a fedorov dolomite, which is a modano/forsberg clone. It's also the same as NBH's PM9 (Hossa/St. Louis) , Mission's Elias/Gaborik/Boyes and very close to TPS's Tkachuk and CCM's Stuart/Steen. If you currently use any of these curves, the fedorov is what you want.

I go back and forth between my fedorov dolomite and PM9 Vapor XX, and the difference in lie is so slight that it doesn't bother me at all.

[Knuckles 0]

thanx for the lie info DamnLocust...that's explains alot. well written, well explained

thanx again

[cobrAA 0]

i'm pretty used to my inno true-blue 280(around 80) and my SL 85 flex. my bauer TFG 87 isnt bad but feel a bit stiffer than my SL..

Anyone who already used a easton shaft and a warrior shaft can comment on the flex? would the 75 be more appropriate?