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gman

curve suggestions

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I also posted this in Rollerhockey. Forgive me...

My son has decided he wants to pick a new curve. We need a junior curve and the pattern DB, as far as I can tell, has adult patterns. I have seen differences in adult and junior curves with the same name on them, so I do not believe they are the same all the way around.

So, what I am looking for is a LONG blade with a toe curve and a low (5-ish)lie. I do not particularly want to get into tapered unless that is the only way to get what we need. If there is such a beast as a low kick non-tapered blade that would be ideal. By long, I mean the rule book says 12.5 inches is the limit, so anything up to that. I am not necessarily looking to start a discussion on what is the best curve, nor on the merits of long vs short blades, as that has been done before.

He has no trouble getting the puck up, so an open face is not a requirement. In fact, a closed face would probably be better. A 1/2" curve is probably too much, maybe a 3/8" or if anyone makes a 1/4" that could be good in a toe curve.

Thanks for your help.

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It doesn't exist

That is pretty much the conclusion I was coming to myself. :rolleyes: Dang it... Anything close Chadd?

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They do make a Modano, and the Warrior Smyth looks promising. I just have to find some place that sells it...

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It doesn't exist

That is pretty much the conclusion I was coming to myself. :angry: Dang it... Anything close Chadd?

Depends on what you're willing to give up. Curve depth, curve type, lie or length. There really isn't anything that matches in more than two of the four categories.

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As I do whenever someone's looking for a hard to find pattern, I'll throw out the idea of buying wood blades with the proper lie and shape, and curving them to whatever your heart desires. It may be possible to get customs made up, but I don't know if companies make them in Jr. size.

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I'll give up curve depth. I'll give up half a step in lie, though I would actually rather go the other way into the fours. And I'll go with a mid-toe instead of a strict toe. Does that help?

As I do whenever someone's looking for a hard to find pattern, I'll throw out the idea of buying wood blades with the proper lie and shape, and curving them to whatever your heart desires. It may be possible to get customs made up, but I don't know if companies make them in Jr. size.

I had actually thought of that myself. Any wood blades you can suggest?? Does that blade curve frame thing work?? Sorry I cannot think of the name of it...

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The Procurve? Looks kind of like a vise? I have one, it's pretty good. Some blades don't really want to curve, however. they can be stubborn.

I usually curve the blade a little more than I actually want it to be curved to, and it gives back a little when I release it.

I've had the best results with ABS blades, and friends have done CCM v-40s with ease.

edit: I've always like the Easton RB Pro blades, and NBH ONE60's (formerly 4000) have worked well for me in the past. I've snapped two Bauer 1000s (now NBH ONE40s) at the hosel within 3 days of purchase, so I stay away, but they're nice and light, and others like their durability.

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Pro curve: that's it! I have had bad luck with the NBH ONE 40 as well. I broke it the second day I had it shooting in my garage. It was ver light, but I looked inside after it broke, and it looked almost like balsa wood. I guess that has to happen for it to be light. I am glad I am not the only one with bad luck there. Do all the ABS blades work well being curved??

I have had an impossible time finding an ABS blade with a low lie. Do you have any experience with the junior lies on the ABS blades? Have you seen any closeout sources for a procurve?

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The only place I've ever seen the procurve was on epuck, and that's where I got it. As far as Lies, I never really worried about them as I used the blades for outdoor roller hockey. I also have zip in terms of experience with junior blades, sorry.

The ABS blades that I was curving were the old Titan Infusions (got a good deal on ebay for a lot of 5) , which are very similar in construction to the current RBK 1K blades. Another blade that worked pretty well was an old Bauer 7000, the one with an ABS insert in the heel, but a wood outer layer. I don't think NBH still constructs any blades this way, but CCM might have one, as they used to use this process as well.

An ABS blade with a thick outer wrap (ie the old Bauer 500 or the Easton ones) runs the risk of bubbling the outer wrap. Some wood blades will do this as well, but it's not as bad (I had trouble with some old missions)

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It's been awhile since I bought jr sticks - but I believe ccm's ABS came in jr, and DamnLocust says that curved well for his friends. Look for the v20.

** EDIT: maybe the recchi pattern. It is a neutral face, the sr blade is a 5 lie (so the jr is not going to be more than that) and strikes me it should be fairly friendly for putting a toe curve on it.

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Any thoughts on the blue RBK 1K's as far as "moldability"? They seem pretty cheap and supposedly have a low lie. Although they are not very long.

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I haven't curved an actual 1k, but the titan Infusions I did had the same construction as the 1K. (First they were Titan, then Jofa, now Reebok). They seemed to work out best of everything I've done.

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