philatangy 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2007 Never had this option before, but the stick broke at the heel of the blade. Should I cut it and flip it, or should I try to line it up and put in a dolomite tapered blade? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamnLocust 0 Report post Posted February 20, 2007 it's a bit more difficult than just lining it up for the dolo blade. You'd need to basically cut it little by little until the blade fits snugly in there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
philatangy 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 So, has anyone done this? Should I just flip it? I would really rather have the flex integrity of the sticks original design... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Datsyukiandeek 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 So, has anyone done this? Should I just flip it? I would really rather have the flex integrity of the sticks original design...Should be farly simple. If you had a proshop around you it would be easier. Take the macdady into the shop and line it up with a Dolomite. Theres a pretty visible fuse point on the dolo, mark it o your Mac Daddy and start there. You may have to chissle a little foam out but it would be a good starting point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DamnLocust 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 lining up a mac vs. a dolo won't work, as I mentioned above. the taper geometry is different. cut and test is the only way to do it, unless you have another mac already cut for tapered blades. same goes for vapor XXXs and XXXlites, and Stealths. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
philatangy 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 lining up a mac vs. a dolo won't work, as I mentioned above. the taper geometry is different. cut and test is the only way to do it, unless you have another mac already cut for tapered blades. same goes for vapor XXXs and XXXlites, and Stealths.Interesting...This makes sense. Have you ever done this with any success? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Datsyukiandeek 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 Ive turned a OPS prostock Si-Core into standard. Same process it just takes longer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
philatangy 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 Ive turned a OPS prostock Si-Core into standard. Same process it just takes longer.Maybe that is what I should do.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Datsyukiandeek 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 Ive turned a OPS prostock Si-Core into standard. Same process it just takes longer.Maybe that is what I should do....It'll definitally make things easier as far as finding replacement blades. Although, since im off the wall, I sand standards to fit tapered shafts.If you go with standard you may add length to the shaft or keep it pretty much the same. Go with tapered and you will loose length. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zamboni 6 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 What are you guys using for glue....I'm having trouble with a wood extension on top of a Synergy my son outgrew. Heated shaft and extension, extension jammed in tight-few hours use it was loose. Then tried tape & glue-very tight fit, came loose. Tried marine expoxy-that failed.I'm really curious what holds up on a shaft/blade connection-does a special glue or 2 part expoxy hold better because its not a diferent material like the wood I'm trying to attach. Sorry for hijack Phil but hopefully someone will know whats best as glue for your blade install and the extension I'm having trouble with.Maybe I'm overthinking it but wouldn't a 2 part epoxy as used on a golf driver hosel that melts/fuses the blade/shaft together give the best feel?....or not used because of future blade replacement? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oberon 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 I've never understood how you can successfully insert a blade into a True-1 (Mac Daddy) shaft. For a fused OPS, it's pretty simple - get the old blade out and put the new one in. On the True-1, though, you're inserting a blade into the taper. If it fits snug at the bottom of the tenon, won't there be wiggle room at the top of the tenon?Conversely, on regular tapered shafts, does the end of the taper not flatten out to allow the entire length of the tenon to fit snugly? Maybe I'll find out for myself when the blade on my True-1 finally goes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patrick67 1 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 Nope a rugular taper shaft doesn't flatten out, that question has perplexed me 2, I've decided to ignore it and just be happy with the outcome. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
philatangy 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 I've never understood how you can successfully insert a blade into a True-1 (Mac Daddy) shaft. For a fused OPS, it's pretty simple - get the old blade out and put the new one in. On the True-1, though, you're inserting a blade into the taper. If it fits snug at the bottom of the tenon, won't there be wiggle room at the top of the tenon?Conversely, on regular tapered shafts, does the end of the taper not flatten out to allow the entire length of the tenon to fit snugly? Maybe I'll find out for myself when the blade on my True-1 finally goes.This was something I was wondering about too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oberon 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 Just a follow up to clarify: obviously when you look at the taper end of a shaft it does not look flattened out, but shafts that I have appear to be reinforced (on the inside) at the fuse point to accomodate contact with the entire tenon.Edit: dear god I'm posting in the roller forum Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Patrick67 1 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 That would make sense, but then Cut OPS sticks will never fit as well as a regular Taper-shaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oberon 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 That would make sense, but then Cut OPS sticks will never fit as well as a regular Taper-shaft. Sure they would, as 99% of them are regular tapered shafts fused with a blade. The only difference is the paint job. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stickfixchaska 0 Report post Posted February 21, 2007 That would make sense, but then Cut OPS sticks will never fit as well as a regular Taper-shaft. Sure they would, as 99% of them are regular tapered shafts fused with a blade. The only difference is the paint job.Bingo. Oberon has it right. MOST OPS's (Tapered or Not) are only FUSED shaft and blade combos. The few, VERY FEW, true one piece sticks out there wouldn't line up exactly like their shaft/blade counter parts. If you have to, cut it down, but don't flip it. Physics of the stick's flex changes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ATLstealth09 0 Report post Posted February 22, 2007 Most of the top of the line OPS in recent years are true one, but aside from those, most are fused tapered shaft and blade combos. I've been pulling blades out of broken OPS since a year after the Vapor XX came out, so if your stick is as follows:Warrior Mac DaddyBauer Vapor XXX (Lite and regular)Innovative True OneEaston Stealth (not sure about this one)You won't be able to just pull out the fuse point; you'll have to cut along the shaft until you find a snug fit for a tapered blade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
philatangy 0 Report post Posted February 22, 2007 Thanks for all of your help guys! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TourHockeykid89 0 Report post Posted February 25, 2007 That would make sense, but then Cut OPS sticks will never fit as well as a regular Taper-shaft.dude just get the dolo taperd curve of your choice and tap on the stick look for where the shaft is hollow go down a couple inches cut and removwe the foam pop the taperd in and bang sweet stick i did it whit my stealth and a dolo blade Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
