Tapered Shaft - Wood Blade

[RATM 0]

Definetly stock up on the Snergy II blades, I believe that the wood XXX lite blade will be replaced by the wood XXXX blade next year.

[habsfan87 0]

Definetly stock up on the Snergy II blades, I believe that the wood XXX lite blade will be replaced by the wood XXXX blade next year.

sweet, I'm sure they won't be much different just graphics...I just don't want a couple useless shafts

[Powerfibers 8]

After trying several low to medium priced one piecers (Sherwood RM5, TPS Intrigues), I no longer use anything but wood blades in composite shafts (CCM Vectors). My shot is not quite on par, but I can handle the puck and pass a lot better.

Sometimes I wonder if my better control is not so much from the wooden blade but because those OPS models sucked?

[BMcDonald19 0]

is the vapor xxxx shaft out yet?

[$m0k3 0]

Can you shave down a standard wood blade and fit it into a tapered shaft, will it make it weaker or anything?

[jgiant 0]

For those who have gone the custom wood route through Christian (CBHockey), what tapered shaft has worked for you, as far as overall balance and feel? I only ask because it has been mentioned that some have experienced blade-heaviness with their custom Christian woodies?

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

[Master P 0]

Tapered shaft with a wood blade is a great combo. I just wish it was easier to find wood tapered blades. I have tried the wood Christian blades a few years ago. Good quality but the curve was nothing like the Drury curve. It was more of a Modano / Foresburg

[Leafsrule16 5]

Can you shave down a standard wood blade and fit it into a tapered shaft, will it make it weaker or anything?

I did it on a few blades, no problems. I dont see why it would either, your just making it smaller to fit a tapered shaft, if it made it that much weaker they woudlnt even make tapered blades. I got pretty good success out of it on sherwood 950 blades.

[Neo5370 132]

They make the 950 in tapered now. Or were those the ones you were referring to...

[Leafsrule16 5]

They make the 950 in tapered now. Or were those the ones you were referring to...

Im not 100% sure what the ones i were using back then were, they were senior blades though and i think my shafts were either jr or intermediate. Z bubble shafts anyways. The blade looks almost identical to the one on the 9950 wood stick

[$m0k3 0]

Can you shave down a standard wood blade and fit it into a tapered shaft, will it make it weaker or anything?

I did it on a few blades, no problems. I dont see why it would either, your just making it smaller to fit a tapered shaft, if it made it that much weaker they woudlnt even make tapered blades. I got pretty good success out of it on sherwood 950 blades.

What was the process you used to do it?

Anything you can think of that i shouldn't try?

[Leafsrule16 5]

Cant guarantee it will work out perfect but i put it in a vice and tried a belt sander at first but i was worried i would sand too much off it so i used manual effort with sand paper (not recommended, takes forever)

[$m0k3 0]

K, ill have to take a look at what i have and see if i can come up with a better solution to save time but do it right also.

[fatwabbit 93]

if anyone is looking for long hosel tapered wooden blades, you can pm me... i've got a few i want to get rid of.

[Leafsrule16 5]

After trying several low to medium priced one piecers (Sherwood RM5, TPS Intrigues), I no longer use anything but wood blades in composite shafts (CCM Vectors). My shot is not quite on par, but I can handle the puck and pass a lot better.

Sometimes I wonder if my better control is not so much from the wooden blade but because those OPS models sucked?

Probably a bit of both, however i had a low end ops for a shift and my shot felt terrible, a 100 flex stick and it was torquing like crazy.

[rangers1234 0]

I tried the shaft - wood blade combo and I have been having a tough time with the connection point. After one game of use, the wood blade was loose on the inside and you could here a clicking noise. When I pulled it out, I noticed the hosel was thinner (both standard setups). Is there a solution to this?

Also when I put the blade into the shaft, it seems like all the glue get's pushed out of the shaft because of the tight fit. Is there a strategy to putting the blade in the shaft and how much glue I should be using?

Thanks

[cptjeff 0]

Use tape on the tenon (the part that actually goes in the shaft) to snug up the fit. You shouldn't need too much glue at all. I've even used a strip of shin pad tape and used that, and the heat from the heated shaft melts it and keeps the blade in place.