Various wooden blades

[ubitsa 0]

I'm just getting into ice hockey and have come across some blades that people have recommended for one reason or another, but I can't seem to find them in wooden blades (I'm going to get a composite stick and try them out). The blades I'm interested are: RH Senior Drury, RH Senior Lidstrom, and RH Senior LeCavalier....the cheaper the better, because I'm not buying these for longevity, just to see how they affect different shots. Thanks.

[vitaminZ 0]

standard or tapered shaft?

[ubitsa 0]

standard or tapered shaft?

Most likely standard, those shafts tend to be cheaper so that's probably what I'll go with, but if I can only get them for a tapered shaft then i will go that direction.

[rubberduckie 0]

May I also suggest the sakic pattern (easton naming)... a very very common pattern. Though I am not exactly sure what the Lecavalier pattern is, so if it is its clone, i am sorry.

[ubitsa 0]

May I also suggest the sakic pattern (easton naming)... a very very common pattern. Though I am not exactly sure what the Lecavalier pattern is, so if it is its clone, i am sorry.

The LeCavalier reminds me of the the Lidstrom somewhat, but it's a CCM and not an Easton. Still looking, by the way.....

[Leafsrok 0]

the Lecavalier and the Lidstrom are clones, meaning theyre the exact same curve, so theres not a whole lot of sense in trying both. with the Drury and the Lidstrom, the openness will act as sort of a crutch to learn how to raise the puck when just starting out like you are, its best to start out with a relatively flat, small curve. the Easton Forsberg (and all its clones) is a great curve to start out using.

[TBLfan 25]

Lecavalier and Lidstrom arent exact clones but they are very close. Easy way to save some money, eliminate items you're buying. ;)

[ubitsa 0]

the Lecavalier and the Lidstrom are clones, meaning theyre the exact same curve, so theres not a whole lot of sense in trying both. with the Drury and the Lidstrom, the openness will act as sort of a crutch to learn how to raise the puck when just starting out like you are, its best to start out with a relatively flat, small curve. the Easton Forsberg (and all its clones) is a great curve to start out using.

I don't really have a problem lifting the puck, I'd just prefer to do it a bit more easily. At the moment I have an old Jagr Koho stick (the cheap street hockey one), which doesn't have much loft on it, and doesn't exactly have a huge curve either. So in a way, I already have my "Forsberg" and I'm looking to try some new stuff.

[Jason Harris 31]

I probably have a few of those in my remaining stock. I'd have to look at which hosel they are, since I never sold the wooden ones. I was given them for samples at the trade show.

[Leafsrok 0]

the Lecavalier and the Lidstrom are clones, meaning theyre the exact same curve, so theres not a whole lot of sense in trying both. with the Drury and the Lidstrom, the openness will act as sort of a crutch to learn how to raise the puck when just starting out like you are, its best to start out with a relatively flat, small curve. the Easton Forsberg (and all its clones) is a great curve to start out using.

I don't really have a problem lifting the puck, I'd just prefer to do it a bit more easily. At the moment I have an old Jagr Koho stick (the cheap street hockey one), which doesn't have much loft on it, and doesn't exactly have a huge curve either. So in a way, I already have my "Forsberg" and I'm looking to try some new stuff.

practicing with a flat blade without much/any loft, will help you be able to lift the puck easily no matter what kind of curve youre using because it develops good technique instead of relying on the curve to do the work for you.

nothing wrong with giving those curves a shot and seeing how they work for you though :)

[ubitsa 0]

the Lecavalier and the Lidstrom are clones, meaning theyre the exact same curve, so theres not a whole lot of sense in trying both. with the Drury and the Lidstrom, the openness will act as sort of a crutch to learn how to raise the puck when just starting out like you are, its best to start out with a relatively flat, small curve. the Easton Forsberg (and all its clones) is a great curve to start out using.

I don't really have a problem lifting the puck, I'd just prefer to do it a bit more easily. At the moment I have an old Jagr Koho stick (the cheap street hockey one), which doesn't have much loft on it, and doesn't exactly have a huge curve either. So in a way, I already have my "Forsberg" and I'm looking to try some new stuff.

practicing with a flat blade without much/any loft, will help you be able to lift the puck easily no matter what kind of curve youre using because it develops good technique instead of relying on the curve to do the work for you.

nothing wrong with giving those curves a shot and seeing how they work for you though :)

I get what you mean, but presumably there is a reason why there are NHL players using those more lofted curves when they can elevate the puck with anything as well.

[TBLfan 25]

Theres a difference there, normally. Hopefully, in those cases they are adjusting the pattern to fit their shot and how they use it.

The trick is finding a pattern to fit you shot, NOT finding a shot to fit a pattern.