Got my inline-parts, but i got some questions.

[Sven 1]

Alright, i just my parts to convert my old skates, but i got some questions first.

How do i remove the rivets without a machine? I tried to put a screwdriver in the holes and use a hammer to punch them out of the holder/skate, but it didnt more any inch.

I just put the bearings in the wheels and finished all the work but when i roll the chassis over my table, one wheel doesnt roll. Is that okay? I got some Vector Tri-Dri Chassis with 80-76-76-72 wheels when i recall it correctly.

[TLR156 0]

As long as it's the front or rear wheel that doesn't roll, then you're fine. The Tri-di setup is an effort to mimic the curve of an ice blade by having the front & rear wheels slightly higher than the middle ones.

[Bender 0]

For tri-di's, that is 100% normal, as the have a "rocker" around the middle front wheel, so that either; all but the front wheel touch the ground, or only the front 2 touch the ground. Although while skating (especially around corners) all 4 wheels are capable of touching the ground

[Sven 1]

How do i remove the rivets without a machine? I tried to put a screwdriver in the holes and use a hammer to punch them out of the holder/skate, but it didnt move any inch.

[TLR156 0]

How do i remove the rivets without a machine? I tried to put a screwdriver in the holes and use a hammer to punch them out of the holder/skate, but it didnt move any inch.

You should be able to drill them out by using a bit that is just about the same size as the rivet body (probably just a hair smaller than the mounting holes in your new roller chassis). If you don't have a drill, I'm not sure how you'll get the new chassis mounted to your boots, as you'll almost certainly need to drill new mounting holes for them once you get the blade holders off.

[Sven 1]

Ill head to the LHS, even tho i wanted to avoid that step.

[Griff 2]

You can punch them out using an icepick and a hammer.