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Leafsrule16

The broken one peice thread

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So many annoying questions concerning broken ops's all of a sudden. Anyone else with anything of any value feel free to post it in here hopefully it will cut back on stupid questions about broken sticks.

If you break a non tapered fused stick (synergy se, dolomite, one85, ect) chances are your gonna have to cut it above the point where the blade is fused and it should be fine.

If you break a true ops flip it and put the blade in the other end, or just throw broken sticks out because it greatly affects there shooting. I use them for road hockey from time to time but there never worth buying a blade for it seems.

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On the SE16- I cut the stick at the fuse point & had to chip away the tenon inside the shaft for days since I don't have the proper tools. After the chisseling I popped in a tapered blade... & BAM... a un-official 2 piece se16 :). It was worth the work though. I didn't like the idea that the FLEX point would be flipped upside down...Kinda defeats the purpose of having a good stick.

I +1 this thread.

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If you break a non tapered fused stick (synergy se, dolomite, one85, ect) chances are your gonna have to cut it above the point where the blade is fused and it should be fine.

I'm still kinda new to the details of all this equipment stuff, but aren't the Dolomite and the Synergy sticks tapered sticks?

I might be confused here as well, but I thought the Dolo could be heated and pulled.

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The SE16 is tapered.... I know that for a fact. Since I could only fit a tapered blade to my stick after my 1 piece SE16 broke ;-x

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If you break a non tapered fused stick (synergy se, dolomite, one85, ect) chances are your gonna have to cut it above the point where the blade is fused and it should be fine.

I'm still kinda new to the details of all this equipment stuff, but aren't the Dolomite and the Synergy sticks tapered sticks?

I might be confused here as well, but I thought the Dolo could be heated and pulled.

Yes and yes. Both are tapered, and the Dolo uses a glue that can be melted at high temperature (higher then regular hot glue for a 2 piece though)

Probably should just use the other massive thread.

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On the SE16- I cut the stick at the fuse point & had to chip away the tenon inside the shaft for days since I don't have the proper tools. After the chisseling I popped in a tapered blade... & BAM... a un-official 2 piece se16 :). It was worth the work though. I didn't like the idea that the FLEX point would be flipped upside down...Kinda defeats the purpose of having a good stick.

I +1 this thread.

Should have heated, then chiselled.. makes it much easier. However, the SE16 I've got feels more whippy than a normal 85 flex that its listed at.

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RBK 10k shaft

Who else would bite on this? The price seems to be O.K. thus far. But it is a broken RBK 10k stick that has been cut at fuse point & is ready for a tapered blade.

Now, from experience, my SE16 came out just fine after I did work on it so out of curiousity- IS the SICkICK technology still there after the cut has been done on this RBK 10k.

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The SE16 is tapered.... I know that for a fact. Since I could only fit a tapered blade to my stick after my 1 piece SE16 broke ;-x

Yes but there fused i meant, they have the solid peace near the bottom of the shaft, hosel? There not true one piece, thats what i meant.

Xtra - I coudlnt see paying $20.01 for that stick really, its pretty much something you would find in the trash at any arena. $20 shipping, wait 3 weeks for something, you could probably find a stick on there for dirt cheap i found a few mission hex's when they first came out on there for $30 each, just check ebay from time to time.

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the SICKKICK technology is talking about the kick point on the shaft so as long as the stick was cut at the fuse point im pretty sure the SICKICK technology would still be affective. Also reebok does make an 8K shaft with the sickkick II technology so i don't the the blade has anything to do with it

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RBK 10k shaft

Who else would bite on this? The price seems to be O.K. thus far. But it is a broken RBK 10k stick that has been cut at fuse point & is ready for a tapered blade.

Now, from experience, my SE16 came out just fine after I did work on it so out of curiousity- IS the SICkICK technology still there after the cut has been done on this RBK 10k.

Well, in the last giant thread somebody mentioned that they had made a 10K into a shaft successfully, so I would guess it's valid.

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