One95 OPS to tapered shaft

[sm326 0]

they are morons. if you cut it at the fuse point it basically gives you an arrow with a talking sign that says "blade hosel stops here". they probably dont chip out the corner first then move to the sides. every shaft that i've used since my first synergy has been a ops turned shaft. never have i had a problem with the shaft breaking where the blade meets.

[tml67 0]

Yesterday one of my old teammates gave me an old T-flex, and I sanded and filed down a standard blade to fit in it. Going to test it out this week and let everyone know the durability issues if any of this. The blade I sanded was from a batch i order from Easton. Wood P10 curve if it matters.

Bad idea. I did the same and lost two blades. They didn't last more than one game.

[NYRSinceBirth 0]

I just did this Sunday at work. A friend of mine had a One95 laying around and said I could have it, picked up a tapered wood Sakic off the rack and cut about 1.5" above the "PM9 87 Flex" marking, or about 5" below the "(Check) Bauer" marking up the shaft. It took a little finessing but I got it to work.

Note: I would have cut higher, but I hate butt ends and personal preference don't like '3 piece' sticks (2 piece + butt end). The stick was at full length (anther friend had it before me and had a butt end in it, he is tall) and wanted o cut as little off as possible. if another one comes in I'll cut it higher and see what happens.

EDIT: my next plan is to cut the hosel off a broken tapered shaft, and get a length of threaded rod from Home Depot (72' jump off). Maybe sand the hosel down a bit so it slides easier in the tapered end. Then on the broken OPS's I can cut at the fuse point, heat the stick up, and force it out from the bottom instead of chipping.

[titand19 0]

Yesterday one of my old teammates gave me an old T-flex, and I sanded and filed down a standard blade to fit in it. Going to test it out this week and let everyone know the durability issues if any of this. The blade I sanded was from a batch i order from Easton. Wood P10 curve if it matters.

Bad idea. I did the same and lost two blades. They didn't last more than one game.

Yeah I figured that would be the case, hence only modifying one blade. I'm gonna try it out tomorrow, it feels sturdy, but only time will tell. I forgot to mention I also shortened the Hosel by about 3 inches so the kickpoint would be lower on the shaft.

[fatwabbit 93]

I've done this before, shaving and sanding down a standard wooden blade, and putting it in an intermediate shaft... dont knwo what everyone else is doing wrong, as I got about 6 months of playin once a week out of that blade.