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Vet88

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Everything posted by Vet88

  1. Try a forefoot gel pad and see if that helps. If it does then you need to look at whatever is under your foot in the boot. I doubt it's pronation causing that issue, not the underside of the foot. If pronation is a factor you are more likely to get pain on the inside of the foot in that area. You can get pain in that area if the arch support is not the right shape for your foot. Also consider pitch, are the skates new or anything else recently changed? It could be putting you to far forward onto the balls of your feet and your muscles are working hard to try and pull you back.
  2. jmiro hit it on the head. You have to make it fun. Puck handling drills around, over, thru, between etc objects, courses etc. Games eg like have the coach pass the puck at them as they are skating around, the kids have to dodge the puck, if the pucks hits the skate they join the passer. Bullrush, stuck in the mud, green light / red light, 1 on 1 puck protection etc. Anything that gets them skating, puck handling and having fun. Make sure you split them up according to skills when doing drills, and there is a lot of thought out there that you don't care about team drills until U10's, just let them have fun and enjoy their time on the rink. I also ask parents to video their child at the start of the year doing a skate drill like weaving between cones with the puck, then get them to video again after 3 months or so, the look on the kids faces as they see their improvement is priceless.......
  3. First thing that stands out for me is that your not getting full leg extension, this makes your stride short and choppy and impacts on your recovery stride. Have a look at this to see what I mean with a couple of tips to help you out. https://vimeo.com/195247373 After looking at the vid again, I've just realised you have laced up, if you really want to get that stride correct then unlace. You can't cheat on the return stride, you must bring the foot completely back underneath you before you roll across the top of it to start the outward push and then maintain a correct angle onto the blade. Yes, your speed is slow as you learn to stride but for improving your technique unlacing is hard to beat.
  4. I'm overseas where there is no in country scanner. Another has posted here that where he was living in the US he couldn't get scanned but had foot casts and orthotics yet True said no to him sending them in. Previous communication I had with VH (about 2 years ago) was yes, you can send a cast and orthotics (the casts were used for my speed skates) in and we will use this to build the boot. That is the only way I will consider getting a boot built as I have odd offset heel shapes with many lumps and bumps on them.
  5. Any comment on True not accepting foot casts from customers? Is that just a fall out from an upscaling of production and they can no longer process orders this way?
  6. Or Se16's. Out of every skate I have ever owned / tried, those things used to make a sucking noise as I took my foot out of the skate, the fit was that good. There has been nothing else since in a "out of the box" retail skate that fitted a narrow heel wide forefoot combo like those Easton skates did.
  7. Sid is 94 (from memory) and still going strong. Makes all his machines at home.
  8. Look at skates from these lines, Jetspeeds, ribcors, vapours. Get the heel fit right first then consider getting the boot stretched to fit a wide forefoot. Unfortunately you have a foot shape that an out of the box retail boot generally does not fit without some modification.
  9. We use the incredible edger from Sid, with the optional 220v transformer its guaranteed to run the same (and does) as in NA.
  10. I find it odd also. When I contacted Rob a while ago, VH would use my foot casting if I cared to send it in. As I'm overseas this would have been the only way I'd have had a pair of skates made as I would not be wanting to deal with returns for modifications. Do it once, do it right. Maybe True has changed this policy? If so I think it sucks especially for those that have spent the time and money to get a cast and, rightfully so, think that the use of it will produce a better fitting boot than just measurements.
  11. Yes, its the space above the toes. If there is space there the toes and the forefoot can lift, this lift can result in loss of energy. Whilst I'm not going to comment on the energy side, I will say it works to help secure the foot into the boot. As I skate without laces, my Bauer skates are loose on my foot in the forefoot area, with powerfoot inserts fitted I get a really good lock in the forefoot.
  12. Haha, the difference in your skating is starting to become really noticeable now. From 4 months ago when you really started to work on dropping eyelets to now, much better edge control and balance.
  13. And if you have ever seen him sharpening skates, he uses an oil to do the final pass / passes and it's more a polish than a cut. I suspect it is easier doing this by hand than readjusting the grinding wheel pressure on a sparx, if that can even be done.
  14. Hmm, I wonder if there are regional differences. In NZ our Bauer distributor gets all his product from Europe, including customs. It could be a lack of knowledge all down the line. I will ask him again next time I see him.
  15. As per what CCM are doing, for retail Bauer do not build from your last but a last that is the closest they have to your foot shape and then incorporating any additional specs you may make. Only True at this stage are offering a retail boot that will be built from your last. For my crystal ball gazing, once the manufacturers begin to 3D print their boots (and its not that far away when you look at what adidas and others are now doing) then all boots will be be able to be built from your last, for an additional price of course.
  16. At this stage, no. Someone like JR could possibly better answer this but based on a recent discussion I had with a LHS owner - With Bauer you can select a tongue, heel size, forefoot width etc but its made from their last, not a last from your foot. CCM are about to offer a custom skate once their scanning platform is rolled out into retail stores but I'm not sure if it is truly based of your last or a last they have that is closest to your foot shape.
  17. As HP are finding out as they try to stop clone cartridges getting used in their printers. I agree, not enough money in it for a 3rd party to reverse engineer a ring. Now if only Sparx were as common as inkjet printers.....
  18. Yes that's the method but the Teflon tape I use is too rigid to fold over so I cut strips for each side then lightly chamfer the top of the strip (when it is on the blade) so that it inserts easier into the holder. I have various thicknesses of Teflon tape and try thicker ones on just the center of the blade until I can't get the blade to fit in by hand. Then I set the rest of the blade up and use clamps to press fit the blade. btw I tried masking tape and it works but after a short time it starts to go off and degrades causing the blade to get loose again.
  19. Don't know about clicking but you could check for sideways fit. You would have to add some weight to the holder eg screw a heavy steel plate onto it, insert the blade into the holder and then put the setup into a sharpening carriage with a sideways mount. If the holder flops on the blade then swap it out.
  20. You can't use 3rd party grinding rings (yet), Sparx have an ID tag in the ring, if there is no ID tag sensed then the machine will not sharpen. It's how the machine knows how many passes a wheel has done.
  21. You can't use silicon or rubber as it would give and still allow the blade to flex sideways. Teflon tape is good as it does not give under pressure. I end up press fitting the blade into the holder and then resharpening the blade. It's a last resort because if the blade breaks or when it wears out then getting it out is going to be really difficult and anything new going into the holder will flop about. At the end of the day a new edge holder is the only proper fix. We have timed skaters (from standing starts) with this issue and they were all faster once the blade was sitting firmly in the holder.
  22. Every edge holder I have seen that was clicking, when I put it in the carriage to sharpen the boot flopped. Put 200lbs of force into the boot as you push half way thru your stride and that sideways flex is only going to get worse. Whilst you can skate like this, its the loss of speed and edge control that is the worry. Testing players from standing starts (using electronic timers) and then I repair the holder (using teflon tape and pressing the blade into the holder for a secure fit) and they are all quicker in the next set of tests. You raise an interesting point, how will Marsblade deal with this? It's one thing to have it feel good as you turn and glide but if you suffer any loss of speed during acceleration then it's not going to work.
  23. It's muscle memory and balance and when you transition to ice things are different. Even more noticeable is shooting, you can have a great snap shot at home in sneakers but jump back on the ice and it turns into a weak flutter. A Marsblade setup on your inlines may help, other than that you just have to keep practicing and eventually you get better as your skill base improves and starts to transition across. When in inlines or sneakers, try to make the pass whilst standing on one foot only. You are trying to train your hands and upper body whilst isolating them from your legs. Also try a piece of wood balanced on a ball, stand on this and throw sauces.
  24. Vaughn Hockey has bought the majority of Graf Canada’s assets. Now only time will tell what will happen with the once iconic brand name.
  25. ??? Surely not, if he can fit 1-1/2 fingers behind your heel then they are at least 1-1/2 sizes to BIG. Here's how you can easily size the boot for length and stop listening to idiots in shops. All you need is a pencil. Completely take the laces out, this is to stop the boot binding on the sides and top of your foot. Pull the tongue right out so it flops well forward. With your skate socks on, slide your foot into the boot and push it forward until your toes are just brushing the toe cap. Bend slightly forward over the skate, get a pencil and slide it down the back of your heel. If you can slip it down between your heel and the back of the skate then the skates are at least a 1/2 size to big. Keep dropping in size until you cannot slide the pencil down the back of your heel. Now you are getting close to a boot that fits you for length.
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