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Vet88 last won the day on April 25

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  1. Nothing, if you can hold it firm and level enough to see any drop.
  2. I have the AS3 pro, have tried on the AS3. Going from memory here - AS3 pro is:- stiffer (210 versus the 190 AS3), has XS black steel (which wasn't that bad imho), more padding in the ankle area, is 30g? lighter, the liner is different with more abrasive high wear areas, upgraded tongue (metatonic tongue is meant to give better wrap around the foot and improve forward flex), outsole is full carbon. These are the main points I remember, there may be others. I thought the differences were significant.
  3. You really notice it if you stick the boot into a traditional skate holder for a sharpen (the one that holds the boot sideways). The boot will sag alarmingly. This is one of the problems with a vertical holder like Sparx have, you don't see the sag anymore so issues with the blade in the holder can easily be missed.
  4. The cobra holder was notorious for the plastic deforming under the head of the bolt that holds the blade in place. The bolt loosens a fraction, the blade becomes slightly loose and now the blade can move in the holder and open it up ergo your situation. I used to shim the bolt with copper washes that just fit into the hole but once the channel that holds the blade has opened up there is little you can do. I did hear of people heating the channel up (with the blade installed) and clamping the channel. I don't know any long term results of this method. You could try a teflon tape trick on each side of the blade (Bauer edge holder fix) to see if that will help. I haven't had my hands on a cobra holder for ages.
  5. This raises an interesting point. In many countries there are now laws that protect consumers, in mine a manufacture has to make a product that is fit for purpose, durable (and yes, the cost of the product is part of this equation - the more it costs the longer it is expected to last) and that they must carry spare parts for the expected life of the product in the market. A manufacturer's warranty is no longer worth the piece of paper it is written on, what counts is a "reasonable expected life span" of the product. Puck strikes are part of the game and if it had happened here within a 2 to 3 year period of owning the skates I'd suspect that someone would be dragging Bauer's ass (or their agent, the shop) in front of the tribunal on at least 2 breaches of our law (and I can think of another 2 beyond durability and spare parts). disclaimer - I'm a litigious pita bush lawyer that has spent many many hours helping people out with cases against manufacturers / agents and their supposed warranties, marketing bs and disclosures.
  6. Ask @PBH, he has as AS2001 (mine is on its way but taking a while due to current supply chain issues). If your steel is really low and the sharpening is flattening the middle I'd suspect the contact point / grinding wheel height setting and they aren't adjusting it when they put your skate into the machine?
  7. This is also a problem with Hyperlites except they make it worse with a ridge there. I know of 2 attempts to raise the end of a toe cap that had success. One guy I know with Hyperlites got a potato (of all things) wrapped in plastic and wedged it into the toe cap. It took about a week but he got enough relief to stop the pinching. I'm not happy with this method because if you jam too much pressure into the top of the toe cap I believe you risk separating the toe cap from the sole. With my Hyperlites I used an Irwin bar clamp to clamp the toe cap / tongue area, the middle of the inside clamp presses the toe cap upwards whilst the end of the outside clamp presses down onto the middle of the toe cap and holds the toe cap in place relative to the sole. With a gentle application of heat, the end of the toe cap bends upwards as you tighten the clamp, it only has to move a small distance to get relief. The downside of this method is you have to bend the tongue right over to get the clamp on the toe cap and the clamp presses down onto the tongue. I didn't do any damage to that shitty (imho) Hyperlite tongue but I don't know how it would go with a tongue in another skate. Can post a pic of the clamp on a boot if you want to see how I set it up.
  8. If you want to see how much your pronation is actually affecting you as you skate there is a simple test. Go for a skate with your laces undone, slip your boots on and make sure the laces can't touch the ice and then do some easy laps around the rink. Try some turns and crossovers, try accelerating from a standing V start, if you think you can do it try some front to back transitions. If you find yourself wobbling and unstable and or your calf muscles starting to scream at you after a few minutes, you are not neutrally aligned over the skate blade. If you find your foot collapsing inwards at all, this is pronation at work. If you find the whole experience meh with no collapsing feet, ie hardly any change to skating laced up, then congrats - you have good neutral alignment over the skate blade.
  9. My apologies, I have reread your initial post and thought you mentioned arch pain but it was blisters. PBH covered this with a slipping foot. I can't see how punching the arch out will give you much more volume unless you are having pain at the top of the foot around the 5 / 6 / 7 eyelets down area. If you are looking for more volume in the skate to relieve the top 3 eyelets area (where most lace bite occurs) then I don't think an arch punch is going to help.
  10. Fix your pronation, this is the issue. Your medial ankle pain and poor durability were caused by the foot rotating (pronating) in the boot every time you put weight on it. Read this post, do the drill, change the way you skate forever. Ask away if you have any other questions about pronation. As to the FT4's, either punch the arch flat or put in an insole that has the arch cut out of it, this will raise the foot over the arch shape in the boot and hopefully give you some relief (you also need to get your foot stable and not slipping in the boot).
  11. I was told that the 3D scan is the start and then the fitter can make custom specifications such as "AA heel size" or whatever your heel size is. Whether or not you pay extra for this or how you access this option (as it becomes a pro fit specification) at a retail level I don't know, I would have to go back to the Bauer employee I was talking to. At the end of the day if you pay for a custom fit from the scan of your foot and the heel is too wide then you should be asking for the skate to be remade to your specs. But what I'd also consider is if you aren't getting consistency in your skating from one day to the next then don't look at the skate, look for the source of the issue which is your bio mechanics. I've gone thru this (and over the years tried every top end skate around in the mistaken attempt to fix the issue) and I've worked with dozens of skaters over the last 6 months who initially blamed their skates but after working on their ankles and alignments, all have come to the realization that it isn't the skate.
  12. It's the amount of force you needed to flex the boot forward thru the 3rd to 5th down eyelet area. Think of it as a wedge that runs from these eyelets to the bottom of the heel, this zone would flex differently to the rest of the boot so you got better forward bend in the boot. They came in 75 flex and 85 flex (if memory serves me right), the 75 flex is the slightly softer skate. This isn't related to the stiffness of the sidewalls of the boot, just the forward flex. If I am wrong please jump in and correct me, this is all from memory as I never pulled the trigger on these as the foot shape was wrong for me.
  13. At 6'6" he is a big lad but wtf, that is a sad looking holder...
  14. I would suspect that lighter, thinner materials need more support, they got to save that weight somewhere to get skates under 700g (with steel). The NT3000 and NT5000 holders were beasts (other than the stupid screw support for the steel).
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