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Vet88

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Vet88 last won the day on November 18 2021

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  1. Try a P92 (Bauer) curve, the elevation thru the mid blade and toe might be closer to the Drury you used to use. My reasoning for toe curves is you provide a flatter surface for your passing but the shot slings off the toe for elevation in close. For boots it's not just the stiffness, they are made of different material (the stiffer the boot the more carbon fiber it has in it) and have other upgrades such as the tongue and a comfort edge and the steel. There are pluses and minuses to a Sparx but as long as the operator knows what they are doing, it removes the risk of uneven edges and uneven pressure from the operator (which leads to a ruined profile over time).
  2. This I disagree with. It has the least discomfort because it fits the biggest overall around the foot. This doesn't mean it fits well, in fact it often means it fits very poorly (too big) in a lot of areas but people think that's good when it isn't. Then when you start to use it and the foams begin to compress and your foot starts slopping around in it and you wonder why you brought it.... Personally I start with the laces taken out, if you can fit your foot into the boot like this then everything else can be worked on. You jam your heel into the tightest fitting heel pocket you can find, you can't make a boot smaller but you can widen it, punch it and have the foams settle to give you more room. Try this, take the laces out, pull the tongue out, put the boot on, lift your foot into the air (relax the toes) and shake it about. If it feels like the boot is going to slip off your foot then it is too big. Again, a boot doesn't get smaller but I guarantee it will get bigger over time.
  3. If you do go the DIY punch route, message me. I've simplified the tool I use to do the punch with and it's so much easier and simpler now.
  4. You are right until you get to your last sentence. You should be feeling less bite when the internal angle of the edges are flatter.
  5. I just don't get this. This area can be punched but it takes time and care and I suspect this is the real reason why they don't want to do it. In a later post you say the sore area is just behind the pinky toe, this area isn't hard to punch especially as you only need to move the side of the boot by a mm or 2 to give you the relief you are after. Maybe call round other shops in your area and see if they will do it? Or try a rebake but this time you put a 4mm - 5mm thick pad on your foot where the sore area is so it helps to push the boot out in that area. Or try to punch it yourself at home, for the cost of a c clamp and some other basic materials you can do it yourself and take the time and care needed to do it.
  6. I'd try hot glue first, it's not going to destroy anything it comes in contact with. If that fails then maybe 2 pot epoxy, it will hold anything as long as it doesn't destroy it.
  7. imho what you have found is a garbage test for length because so much of it is wrong. 1 finger, wtf.... If you want a manual test for length this is how - take a hb pencil with you, this is all you need. Pull the laces out of the skate (this is important, it stops the foot from binding on the sides of the skate and tongue), now pull the tongue right out and flop it forward. Put your foot into the boot and slide it forward until the toes just brush the toe cap. Bend slightly forward in the skate and with your pencil, see if you can slide it down the back of the heel between the heel and the boot (orange arrow). If you can slide it down then that skate is at least a 1/2 size to big for what is considered an optimal length fit - when you lace up the heel is pulled into the heel pocket by a couple of mm and this is how far your toes sit off the toe cap. Be it a brannock or a scanner or whatever other tool the shop may want to use, I have never had this process fail for length. Once you have your optimal length, some skaters like more room in the toe cap and will go up half a size, it's all down to personal preference from this point. And for those volume issues you are having, these will fix them regardless of what skate you buy : https://www.greatsaves.org/product-page/skate-lace-eliminators Or make your own so you can customise them to your skate, there are a number of threads here from skaters that have eg
  8. Reviving this post and taking into account flare blades, which is the best edge checker you have seen or used, regardless of price?
  9. Here is the link of 3 photos, one is the clamp underway. Another is the items I used - a puck, a piece of wood as a base for the wedges, 2 wedges, a piece of wood (in the background) that I inserted on top of the wedges so as they slid in they didn't damage the underneath of the toe cap or tongue. And the last photo is the toe cap, you can see where the tongue joins and it lifts upwards by just under 2mm. This is enough for it to stop pressing hard against my forefoot. Ideally I should have sanded the wedges to fit the shape of the side to side slope of the toe cap but I was in a bit of a hurry and this worked as it is. https://imgur.com/gallery/1RB15a3
  10. I have the same issue, where the tongue inserts into the toe box. Bauer have lowered the height of the toe box compared to previous models of vapors. I've fixed it by using wedges on top of a puck and a clamp, I needed around a 2mm lift where the toe box starts. I had to leave the wedges in for 5 days to get it set, heat may have sped things up but I prefer to do it slowly over time. I can post a pic of how if you want to see it.
  11. I didn't know Hyperlites came in a D, I thought all Hyperlites used the sizing Fit 1 - 3. Mine are a Fit 1 and my experience is the toe box is smaller in height than any Vapour or Supreme D size I have ever worn or tried. For a Fit 1 I have to raise the toe cap / tongue insert area, it is much much lower in height in this area. I have used powerfoot inserts for the last few years and there is no way I could ever put these into a Hyperlite Fit 1 toe box. Now that you have dropped one eyelet, try another one down....
  12. Did they explain why? Other than wanting to upsell you into a new pair of skates, punching is about the most common thing you can do to skates to fix hot spots etc. Now if they were too tight across the forefoot I might not punch them, I'd do a stretch. I'm curious as to why a LHS would tell you a punch is not a good idea.
  13. Because it's a perception problem for China and this is ingrained in their culture and direction. They don't want to be seen to fail on the world stage and getting their asses handed to them by the US would be viewed very poorly. Other countries wouldn't care, god help us if ever our national team qualified, we would love to go even if the score was 20 or more (which it would be given we are div B II) but the chinese see it very differently. For example look at the non blue ribbon events they focus on in the Olympic games, it's not because they are historically good at them but so they can win more gold medals than any other country.
  14. Have you had any skaters get you to work on the toe box height (where the tongue slides under) and was it successful? I can wear a Fit 1 but the toe box is really tight on the top of the foot and I'm considering trying to lift it a little. Other than using a wedge I'm kind of lost how to do it as none of the usual tools really apply.
  15. I'm 58 so it's never to late to start stretching. Watch the following vid, the basis of my strecthing routine is similar to this but first I start with 20 minutes focused on the gluteus medius and IT band, not so much stretching but strengthening and conditioning, these muscles and tendons are so important for hockey. I'll post a link to the group of exercises I do later on. Then I'll spend 40 minutes stretching, this is the stretching vid, you could pick any off youtube from a figure skating coach working on eagles of box splits. It's advanced stretches but I just went for it and keep pushing it hard, my range has improved dramatically.
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