mc88

Try using these screws instead: http://hockeyguys.com/graf-rms-screw-set-16.aspx

I don't expect to withstand heavy "punches," but dispersing the occasional jab would be nice (that's my primary concern, small rubbing and scrapes over a long period of time that can wear down the structural integrity of the carbon fiber) . I don't think you're giving it, the Plastidip, enough credit. From what I can tell, the reason why it's splitting is that it has a rough textured outside. So any sort of rubbing or scraping would be like taking a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to wood. Hopefully, with the Dip Coat spray it'll make it smoother/more resistant to the scrapes. Otherwise, I'll scrap the idea and instead do what the car guys do and add a sealant layer over the top. Like maintaining a car... ignore it and hope it doesn't break down... or small maintenance over a long period of time to reduce failure.

Protects the toecap from exactly what you can see to the plastidip.

Lost one awhile ago and replaced it with a helmet screw. Since I lost it, I cranked down on the screws and haven't had any screws coming loose since.

Did it myself about 2 weeks ago (when I ordered these back in January, I didn't know about the coated toe): http://modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/63437-vh-footwear/page-34#entry1016576 http://modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/63437-vh-footwear/page-34#entry1017112 Looks like I'll need to apply some Dip Coat protection spray, heh.

After about 2 weeks in:

Must have updated some of the speed skating pages because the hockey portion looks unchanged. On a side note, I got my first "How do you like the VH skates?" question from a random hockey guy who seemed to notice them while I was out skating during a busy public session. Seems like the word be spreadin'. They're becoming more and more recognizable!

Try really cranking down on that screw to tighten it up if you haven't already done so. After I did this, I didn't have anymore screws coming loose.

Little update: Love the Black Step Steel. The profiling I got took a bit of time to get used to in terms of finding the balance point, but after an hour... butter. After 3-4 practice sessions at an hour and half each, the runners still look clean and sharp as if they just came off the sharpening wheel. Will update in a month or so to see if the steel still has its edges and polished finish. After 3-4 practice sessions at an hour and half each, the plasti-dipped coated toecaps are showing signs of wear on the inside of the toe-cap; however, despite multiple scrapes/dings, the untouched areas are still holding strong. I think once the coating gets really, really scratched up, then I'll take it off completely, apply 10 coats this time, and use the protective, anti-marring Dip Coat spray. But, as of now, not necessary.

You want your toes to ideally scrape the cap, but it shouldn't feel squished or give you any discomfort. If you there is any discomfort, mark where it hurts/squeezes your foot inside the boot, and send it back to Scott so he can punch it out. Depending on your shipping method, typical turn around time is 1-2 weeks (including shipping days). The hole under the heel is pretty standard/normal for a LS2 holder. It's so that you can change the runners. Unless you have a TUUK Edge, Graf UL5000 or a Reebok SB4.0 (E-Pro) holder, then no hole is required as you can release the runner via a trigger or by accessible external screws. What's nice is that Scott's drilled out hole is much smaller than what you'll find on most boots. Here is a pair of prostock Bauer Vapor skates with LS2 holders (notice the larger hole):

Dip Coat offers a spray that is supposed to make plasti-dipped surfaces more durable. However, haven't tried it yet. https://www.dipyourcar.com/Dip-Coat-Spray.html - Protects Dipped Surfaces from surface scratches and marring - Creates a smoother, slicker, less rubbery feel of dipped surfaces - Enhances colors and pearl finishes of dipped surfaces - Daily UV protection - Protects dip from staining - Makes dipped surfaces easier to wash I think what's nice about this stuff is that it's super user friendly, so if you mess up, you can always take it off and start over.

Materials used (most of the materials can be found at Home Depot or hardware store and shouldn't be more than $30 in total): - Performix Plasti-Dip - Scotch Blue Painters Tape 2093 EL - X-Acto Knife - Kimberly Clark Purple Nitrile Exam Gloves or similar disposable gloves - Any sort of Rubbing Alcohol - Any sort of Scrap Paper (I used printer paper) - Any sort of Rag, Cloth or Paper Towel Process: Remove the tongues and laces from the boots -- You can leave the screw on the top of the toe-cap in -- I just sprayed on top of it and left the coating on the screw anyway Scotch Blue tape the entire perimeter of the toe-cap -- I found it better to tape up to the edges of the synthetic sewn pieces and not worry about the thin side-walls -- also, if your skate is like mine where a bit of holder sticks out in the front, then shove a piece of tape in sideways in between the holder and boot to keep it from leaking onto the top of the holder -- use the side of the x-acto knife to push the tape flat on the holder Scotch Blue tape some scrap paper around the entire boot/holder/runner to block off areas of over-spray -- I found that if it does hit the holders/runners/synthetic pieces, then it's easy to remove by scrubbing with a DRY paper towel after it dries Put on the nitrile gloves and then tape a piece of scrap paper around your left forearm (or non-dominant arm) and over the wrist part of the glove to block over-spray! Pour some rubbing alcohol on to a cloth/rag/paper towel and thoroughly wipe down the toe cap. Let it dry for a few minutes Shake the plasti-dip can for about a minute and then with your non-dominant hand, hold the boot tilted upward and out in front of you, so that you're looking at the underside of the toe-cap With a back and forth sweeping motion, spray the plasti-dip 8-10 inches away from the boot. Start from the bottom of the toe-cap and work your way upward -- Look for an even wet shine across the toe-cap; It should not be drippy, runny nor have gaps/holes in the coating... again EVEN Repeat same spraying process for the the other skate Wait 10-15 minutes (or 30 minutes depending on how your climate is) before applying another coat -- If you want to know when the coat is dry, look for an even matte finish. Nothing will be shiny! Continue to apply a minimum of 6-10 coats with 10-30 minute drying breaks in between -- I applied 6 coats, however, after a practice session I noticed there was some that got scratched off by a skate, BUT still not flakey After the final layer has been applied, wait 4 hours for it to completely cure After curing, take your X-acto knife and score around the entire toe-cap to release the plasti-dip from the side-walls and tape Carefully remove the tape, if you notice any plasti-dip coming up with the tape, cut it down the center with the X-acto knife -- I did a technique of pulling the tape up with my left hand while running the x-acto blade behind it with my right hand If you have any major mistakes or flakiness, start over. Peel off the plasti-dip like you would a sticker, then repeat the steps above but add more drying time and increase the distance of the spray from the toe-cap If all went well, then go hit the ice, your toe-cap is plasti-dipped!

Not sure how it's the sharpening is done, but you can always ask them: http://noicingsports.com/sharpen_skates_by_mail.html Just got everything installed/completed today. I plan on hitting the ice tomorrow, so I'll update then.

Some upgrades! Black Velocity Step Steel profiled by No-Icing Sports -- 8" toe -12" heel radius, 5/8" hollow with a minor forward pitch Plasti-dipped toecap (done by myself -- pretty easy to do with some time, patience, and correct materials)

Update: My custom insoles worked out great. Weird at first since they kept the foot at an angle, pushing my weight more toward the toes, and less on the heel... but after a bit, I forgot they were even there.

I'm in an experimental mood again... I just cut up some custom molded insoles I had laying around. Walking around the house, they create a super tight yet comfortable fit... but I'll update tomorrow and see if it works out on the ice. On a related note, I've been having some arch support issues on my left foot. Seems like the VH insole doesn't extend up high enough on the inside arch, so I get some discomfort. Hopefully the custom insoles will fix this!

The problem I had with certain custom insoles were that they were WAAYYYY too thick. So I'd be careful for those who are thinking about putting in different insoles. Which Sidas insole did you end up going with?

Numbness is never a good sign. Get that area punched out or you may end up with foot problems later down the road.

Follow these instructions for a proper bake with the method below (after clicking, scroll down a bit): http://modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/63437-vh-footwear/page-31#entry1013173 When you bake them (if you haven't already, or if you have, do it again), follow this method when they're cooling down on your feet: Also, you may want to use waxed laces as well if you feel you're not getting a tighter fit. I'd do the above first, then waxed laces second.

I've been looking into rust preventive measures. Just not sure I want to invest $$$ into product, prep-materials, and a respirator (looks like that stuff is pretty harmful). Seems easier to just to spend a buck or two to replace them when they fail. Always wiped down my stuff and let it air dried overnight. Problem is... San Jose is becoming more and more like Florida: Hot and humid!

Good eye! More and more converts.

I'd send it back to Scott if it's affecting your skating. I haven't had that issue as of yet, so unfortunately, I can't offer much help. On another note, I have noticed that my eyelets are starting to show signs of rust despite a thorough wipe-down. So far, none of them have broken or come off, but I'll update if it becomes a bigger issue:

Sweet! Looking forward to watching it!

VH representin' in the hometown:

I have a tailors bunion (pinky toe version of a bunion). It sucks, but that was one of things I requested Scott accommodate. So far, no issues. The boot is pushed out far enough in that area that I don't even realize the bunion when on the ice.