VegasHockey
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Posts posted by VegasHockey
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On 1/9/2024 at 11:20 AM, JAY4114 said:How’s the lie of the p14 compared to a p88?
P14 and P88 are the same lie and overall blade profile. Very flat.
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On 1/10/2024 at 7:41 AM, Sniper9 said:Doesn't it have a significant amount more padding as well.
I wouldn't say more padding, just higher density foams.
On 1/10/2024 at 5:26 AM, mojo122 said:I would categorize it as tweaks to the tongue and HyperFlex outsole plus the new PowerFly holder.
Agreed. Incremental changes.
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On 1/10/2024 at 3:58 PM, Radien55 said:Yes that makes sense. I don't want to be too much on my toes either, so 20mm might be too much. I think I will try with 10mm. Thank you!
I have a couple of questions on pivot point and pitch. Prosharp said you can move the pivot point back 5-20mm, they also said you can add forward pitch by 0-1 degree angle.
Question 1: When should you move the pivot point back XXmm versus adding +1 degree of forward pitch? I understand they are different methods of achieving a similar goal but when and why should you use one over the other?
Question 2: On a combo profile, the 13' radius starts in the middle of the blade. If you move the pivot point back 10-20mm, does the 13' part start later on the blade?
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2 hours ago, Vet88 said:An issue that often doesn't get covered with bent steel is the sharpening. In general, when using a hand sharpener the holder will straighten the steel. Depending on the design of the holder this could happen all the way to the toe and heel or at least 90% of the blade will be straight. However with the popularity of automatic sharpeners such as Sparx and Prosharp Home and Prosharp Skatepal Pro, the blade holders in these machines are much smaller. They clamp the middle portion of the blade which allows the toe and heel to bend away. It's why a lot of shops will check the level in the middle of the blade but not at the toe or heel, they know it's bent but it just isn't worth the hassle to explain the how and why to the customer (or an employee).
I come across bent blades all the time and have built a clamp for my Skatepal Pro to hold bent blades straight as I sharpen them.
That's why I use this when I sharpen
https://shop.blackstonesport.com/custom-skateworks/product/free-runner
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6 minutes ago, noupf said:He's in a youth size 13 and will be in them for the next few months most likely.. He currently has full gear that fits him well. Since we are getting free gear head to toe, i was going to size up for him by one size on everything, so he has all new gear once he outgrows what hes in now. He's growing like a weed, so I think size 1 in the skates is what i was going to order and it says JUNIOR size 1 on the order form. I know his jetspeeds are YOUTH size 13 with the 13' radiu,. but again, i don't know what skates will be supplied with the NHL / CCM learn to play program. I assume inexpensive entry level and the ones i see all say 10' radius, which is why i inquired about the possibility of the changing radius on skates without removable blades. Thanks for chiming in, i appreciate it.
So he is going from youth to junior. All CCM junior skates are 10' but Bauer does 13'
https://www.bauer.com/products/bauer-x-ls-skate-junior
https://www.bauer.com/products/bauer-x-lp-skate-juniorIf you get Bauer, you will be fine. If you get CCM, take them to a local store and get them profiled to a 13'. I am a big fan of putting kids of that age on a longer radius.
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18 hours ago, noupf said:two questions really....
1) Does anybody know which skates come with the NHL / CCM Learn to play equipment packages via Pure Hockey? @VegasHockey maybe?
2) My local pure hockey has a pro-sharp profile machine. Can I get the radius changed on junior skates if the blades can't be removed?
Reason i ask is bc I just signed up my 5 year old son for the NHL learn to play program at our local ice rink. With the sign up fee comes a complete set up of gear from head to toe, including skates. I currently have him in a youth size 13 entry level jetspeed skate that has a 13' radius. He skates ok for his age / skill level, but from what i gather it looks like all the lower price point CCM skates come with a 10' radius and I'd like to keep him on a 13' radius a little longer. Since we already have gear that should last him another 6 months or so, i'm going to go one size up for all the gear that comes from CCM / Pure hockey, including the skates.
Anybody have insight on this gear?
Thanks !!
What size skate is he? Some skated in youth sizes keep the 13' profile.
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19 hours ago, Radien55 said:I have skated in Supremes and Vapors, mainly the latter. I have good acceleration and agility, my strides are short to medium length so I'm good from zero to medium speed, above that my game really suffers, I feel a lack of confidence and stability (although my new AS-V seems to help here, better fit and stiffness, less wobbly). I play in recreational league for ex-players.
I am in size 9 skates with 280mm runners. I use single 10' and I like it, but I want just a little more contact patch to aid grip, speed and stability, without hindering lateral mobility too much. I have skated a lot in Detroit 10-20 and while I liked the speed, and stability on crossovers, I felt flat footed, immobile and the extra steel really hindered lateral moves.
I want something between the two (maybe closer to the 10'), that adds speed, stability on crossovers and can also handle lateral direction changes. I skate backwards a lot so many pivots forwards to backwards need to be accounted for, hence why I am looking at the Quad or similar, over a Zuperior or 13' which might feel too long. The Quad 0-1 shave off way too much steel for my liking, seems like it would lead to short and choppy strides as you run out of steel on the toe to push off with.
The 10/13 seems good in that it doesn't have a shaved toe, so it's familiar territory. The Quad II shaves off the least amount of steel, which is why I am looking at that one, despite being in a size smaller runners than it is recommended for. Does the 7' toe make it less stable to skate backwards? I also worry that the 16' in the rear might be too much and close to the Detroit feeling.
I want to get a pitched profile for the Tacks so I can change easily change from neutral to pitched (and back) with a simple blade change. A non-pitched profile for the Vapors or they will be too much on the toes.
I would do a 10/13 profile and have the pivot point moved back 10mm.
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On 1/5/2024 at 4:28 AM, Radien55 said:Has anyone here skated on both? Is there a big difference?
I registered here recently, but I have been reading the forums for a couple of years, especially everything regarding the Prosharp project. Fascinating reading I must say!
The 10/13 combo profile is rarely mentioned and I could not find anyone here or elsewhere that talked about skating on it.Combo: --10-13---
QUAD II: 7-10-13-16Combo 10/13 is 10 in front and 13 in the rear, while the main and middle portion of a Quad 2 is 10 and 13.
According to illustrations of the Quad, I think the 13 part starts before the middle of the blade, so a little earlier than a combo profile where it starts in the middle of the blade. Other than that, they are on paper very similar on the main part of the blade. Theoretically, if you profile a 10/13 to the same pitch as the Quad, they "should" feel very similar, but without the shaved toe and extra steel in the rear.The 10/13 combo seems like a great compromise, the speed and glide of a 13' without the agility penalty. However the lack of popularity has me wondering. There are very few people talking about it and most shops don't even have the template.
I'm curious if there is anyone that has skated on it, or both profiles, that could share their opinion on it and maybe the differences between the two?
I have used both and they are somewhat similar.
The Quad has an adjusted pivot point, -20mm, so it moves the center of gravity back. The pivot point adjustment and more aggressive toe, 7' radius, pitch you forward. The 10/13 without any adjustment will feel more flat, and you will be less agile.
What type of skater are you? Long strides? Short strides? Agile? Powerful? What level do you play?
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6 hours ago, raganblink said:In my career I have sized up approximately U8s 4,500 times. More or less. The ratio was approx this -
1,500 out of a box starter kits in Youth sizes
3,000 kids one piece at a time
From fitting properly, we were able to get most of those 3,000 kids into properly fitted gear. Some parents were insistent in buying something too big "so they can grow in it" , or they came in in May when I haven't received a pair of youth medium elbow pads in 3 months and we have to go with a large. Of those 1,500 kids who got sold a starter kit, I probably changed sizes over 200 times. Usually because the kid is too fat. But some of the brands have been very awful in scaling of sizes, ie elbow pads too big compared to the shoulder pad size, or shin guards with straps too short, or pants too big, etc. The others I fitted I doubt half of them fit great for every piece, I am positive a lot of mis-sized gear is out there with it.
The core issue of those starter kits is in order for them to be financially feasible for the LTP market & retailer to have a "kit", is this is made as cheaply as possible in order to make margins, as it is razor thin at this level of equipment. This gear therefore has faults such as sizing inconsistencies or issues with the product itself being defective. It does accomplish its goal though - it gets more kids into hockey by introducing players at a lower barrier. It serves a valuable purpose that cannot be overlooked.
Stating that, I have yet to find a full set of youth kits that are proportionate w/ good quality at that right price. There are better kits than others, however, if you can afford it, my recommendation is to size each piece of equipment individually. A lot of LHS do deals as in "Buy X amount of youth gear get % off" or something similar. It rarely goes on sale but when it does, buy the next size up of what your player has right now if they like it. Don't get greedy, just get the next size up on sale. Youth gear discounted is dirt cheap.
As far as kits go, the new Bauer kit is one of the best I have seen. For any player under the age of 4 I think it would be more than sufficient.
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21 hours ago, CigarScott said:Greetings all,
My twin 2 year olds are going to be starting learn to play hopefully in the next year and I'd like to get them on the ice in some stick n pucks sooner than that. I'm trying to weigh my options for how to outfit multiple kids without having to sell a kidney.
I've looked at the Bauer VAPOR X-TEND PROTECTIVE KIT and the comparable kit from Sherwood as well as True. I like how Bauer expands in size so it should, in theory last several years but I also like Sherwood being built into base layers which we'd have to buy anyways and it should be more mom-proof in case she has to help dress them. Anyone have any experiences with these or any other gear for your little ones? Should I look at going one these routes or try buying used?
We have a relatively small hockey community where I live so used gear isn't as plentiful as it would be in, say Toronto or Boston and I don't think buying on Ebay or Sideline Swap will be that cost-effective once factoring in shipping costs.
They are good for LTP kids, especially at that age.
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4 hours ago, JAY4114 said:How’s the rocker and openness compared to the p90tm?
There is no rocker, it's very flat like a P88.
The blade opens a lot at the toe, like the P90. It slightly more open than the P90. It is definitely a curve for a shooter.
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21 hours ago, Neo5370 said:Probably a preference thing. Sakic preferred a soft blade, though I think he was more the exception than the rule.
Majority of high level players (NHL/AHL/D1) tend to prefer softer blades. Softer blade allows for more accurate shooting; the puck stays on the blade longer for loading, which increases accuracy, especially helpful on one-timer as well. It also makes it easier to receive hard passes.
Understand though, what works for Player A may not work for Player B.
For example, I got a bundle of pro stock sticks from Mackinnon. Some of them have softer blades, others are very stiff. You can sometimes "feel" how stiff the blade is, which will give you some insight as to the blade construction without having to cut the blade apart. Maybe he uses one stick for PP when he knows he will be taking more shots and the other is for general use. Who knows? He also varies his flex quite a bit as well.
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14 hours ago, Westside said:Wasn’t expecting that tight of a wrap, just looking to see if it was possible to get a better wrap than i currently have
You might be able to get a little more wrap, but it technically defeats the design of those skates, since they aren't built to wrap tightly.
14 hours ago, Westside said:Might try to make the trek to the local pure hockey next week and ask to use their oven
That would be a good idea. While you can do it yourself at home, if you damage the skates, then you won't be able to file a warranty claim.
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45 minutes ago, JAY4114 said:I was actually thinking of buying a lower end true to test the curve and hopefully get better durability than their higher end models. Is the lie actually a 6 or does it feel lower? I’ve read both from other places.
Its a 5 lie.
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On 12/28/2023 at 8:21 AM, flip12 said:I'm leaning towards putting heel lifts on mine. I like the holder, but I feel like I'm not forward enough, especially on starts. My favorite holder and steel spec has been the classic Graf Cobra 11' radius with aggressive pitch. Does anyone have a suggestion on how much of a heel lift I should request to achieve that feel on my Cat7s?
If you want to test the heel lift before making significant modifications, you could buy these:
https://www.thisissoul.com/products/superfeet-heel-lift
If you want to just do the heel lift, I would start with 1-1.5mm
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On 12/29/2023 at 9:25 AM, pgeorgan said:They make a slightly smaller version of the white and red ruby whetstone that ships with Prime One-Day. The version you linked says I can't have it for 2 months!
Smaller one would be fine too.
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On 12/29/2023 at 9:08 AM, Westside said:I've been skating in Trues for the last 3, almost 4 years. Before that I was skating in a few different models of Bauer for about a decade. The Trues make my feet feel more connected to the ice than anything I've ever skated in and made leaning on my outside edges extremely easy. A few months back I picked up a pair of heavily discounted FT6 Pros just because. The first few skates on them were terrible because they felt so sloppy. Tried a few different lacing techniques, rebaked them, and they feel solid now. However, the ankle area is still very wide, requires me to crank on the laces, and still outside edge work is not as smooth as with the Trues.
Now, I'd imagine this is probably more my technique (or lack thereof), but does anyone have any experience, or is it even possible to get CCM boots to wrap more tightly like True boots? I've done the Saran Wrap method, but as you can see in the below photo, the opening is still extremely wide. The True opening isn't even as tight/narrow as my last pair of Trues, yet I can tie them barely snug and not have any problems.
I have grown to really enjoy True skates, but am on my 3rd pair due to cracks so I'm just looking toward the future which is why I am hoping to make these FT6s work. I do not play at a competitive enough level that should require me to replace skates every year.
You will never get a retail CCM or Bauer skates to have the same wrap as TRUE as those brands don't design the retail skate itself to wrap.
If you went with a custom CCM, you could request to have added facing, which would allow the cuff to wrap the way you want.
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1 hour ago, JAY4114 said:Is it flatter around heel and mid of the blade? Also is the toe as rockered as the p28? I didn’t mind that curve as much besides the openness
Check out the T27 by TRUE. Similar to the P14 but less rocker. If you can't find any good pics online, I can snap some for you. I recently moved from the P90 to the T27.
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On 12/26/2023 at 10:56 AM, start_today said:I broke a holder on my TF7s. A few questions for the brain trust:
a) do the Max holders have the same hole pattern as the shift?
b) I’ve seen a few places say that the Shift steel can go in Max holders, but not the opposite. Is that correct? I’m hoping to avoid buying new steel.
c) Are there any other holders that line up with the shift hole pattern without having to drill new ones?
A: Yes
B: Shift steel can work in the standard Shift holder or the Shift Max holder. Shift Max steel cannot be used in the standard Shift holder, as it has a locking tang on the end.
C: No. Every other brand of holder will require drilling.
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5 hours ago, flip12 said:Sorry, I meant the new runners, not holders.
Same weight.
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10 hours ago, iceman8310 said:Standard colors
Try TriKlean or AcraStrip 950.
Make sure to use in a well ventilated area, wear gloves, a respirator, and eye protection.
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6 hours ago, flip12 said:How much do the new holders weigh compared to the old ones?
The new holders are slightly heavier than the previous generation.
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2 hours ago, iceman8310 said:Jason spezza pro stock
Are these standard colors?
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On 10/31/2023 at 6:54 PM, IPv6Freely said:Do you know anyone??
I do. Myself.
BAHR going out of business?
in Ice Hockey Equipment
Posted · Report reply
Not shocking considering Sharks Ice and Pure Hockey own the entire market share up north. It's hard to be a small business owner when the big brands make it nearly impossible to get accounts, limiting your ability to order or carry product.