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rh71el2

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Posts posted by rh71el2

  1. Posted · Edited by rh71el2 · Report reply

    1 hour ago, IPv6Freely said:

    Also being a goalie I'm needing a freshening up pretty much every skate or two. I hate the "fresh sharpen after not doing it in way too long" feeling. 

    You may want to try a Fire cut.  It lets you slide pretty consistently throughout the sharpened duration.  The only issue I've had with it is the edge can go altogether like they say about FBV.  That is really an issue on outside edges when you're doing crossovers and you'll go down completely, so maybe for a goalie it's not a big deal.

  3. Posted · Edited by rh71el2 · Report reply

    On 11/18/2022 at 1:11 PM, stick9 said:

    ^^ This...

    Also, an edge checker is a must have. 

    Not at that price it's not.  May be unpopular opinion, but I think skating without knowing of perfectly-even edges is fine unless you play pros, but that's just me.  I consider myself a pretty good skater of over 20 years and I take care of my kids' skates before every game, but no need to go overboard.  If I can get one for say $30, I would use it... so why is this thing $80, $150 again?

  5. Posted · Edited by rh71el2 · Report reply

    43 minutes ago, shoot_the_goalie said:

    A side note.  I never get it why so many players (pros & joes alike) use mouth-guards as chewing toys, instead of you know....mouth-guards?

    Since it's not an NHL requirement, I'm guessing old habits to have something there.  Mantha constantly chews on his too. 

     

    And so does one of my kids and I constantly have to get him a new one as they're req'd more or less.  I'd rather have his jaw clamp on something than not when getting hit.

     

    My takeaway from that pic is that McDavid uses a really short stick.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    How important is it to swap in matching pair of steel?  I think the most important factor is that the profile is the same, but does any height difference really matter (perceivable) if you only swap in 1 steel to finish a weekend tournament?  I know people can be really anal about their gear, but is it really a big deal in the grand scheme?  Anyone actually go through this?

  10. Posted · Edited by rh71el2 · Report reply

    I am primarily concerned about feel/pitch of the skates.  My 2 kids who wear size 6 senior Bauer Vapor 2x & Bauer Supreme 3s Pro are in need of roller hockey skates to play a single season coming up (keep it cheap).  They have had a year of roller experience before but I'm looking for a clear picture of what's the most compatible brand in terms of feel now that they need new skates again.  I wear Bauer Vapor ice skates and own an old pair of Tour Code 1 (not hi-lo) and wore Missions (hi-lo) before that.  I feel like the Tours are an easy transition and the Missions were not, but again, these were very old skates and they may have changed the modern skates.  Any tips on what brands work best if they want the least difference?  Not many Bauer Vapors on the used market and I'd like to get educated on brand differences regardless.   I've found some Tour Volt KV4, Alkali Revel 5, Mission Control Xi skates so far.

  11. Posted · Edited by rh71el2 · Report reply

    6 hours ago, Leif said:

    You’re going from 10/16” to 12/16”, a difference of two steps. I always considered 2 passes okay for 7/16” to 8/16” and back. I guess if we knew how much metal was removed on one pass, we could calculate the precise minimum number of passes required. 

    We can easily figure that out by measuring the height of the runner and see how many passes it takes to cut it down say a full 1/2 inch.  Volunteers?  😄

  12. Posted · Edited by rh71el2 · Report reply

    3 hours ago, Vet88 said:

    You are right until you get to your last sentence. You should be feeling less bite when the internal angle of the edges are flatter.

    I do suppose that's right.  Interestingly, the 2 additional passes have made it less sharp again.  I can't quite tell a difference yet between this 3/4 and 5/8 I had been used to.  At least not after 1 [coaching] skate.

    Bottom line - it takes 4 passes or more to change a hollow going shallower.  2 doesn't cut it.

  13. Posted · Edited by rh71el2 · Report reply

     

    3 hours ago, marka said:

    I suppose maybe the 3/4 Fire ring without enough passes may have skinny-ed up the "fangs" on either side while leaving the center of the runner 'deep'?  Just a guess.  I would run more cycles and re-test.

    I've done 2 more passes (total 4 each skate) and will test this afternoon.  But I've been thinking more logically about this.  If I was on 5/8, the hollow would be deeper than when I apply a new sharpening of 3/4. That 3/4 pass or two, if it doesn't reach down to the current hollow of 5/8, will effectively just make the 2 edges flatter & wider than it was. And that's why I was feeling more bite.

    • Like 1

  14. Posted · Report reply

    How many passes to change your sharpening? I used the sharpie method and after 1 pass it was completely gone so that's unreliable IMO. I'm trying to change from 5/8 fire to 3/4 fire (more glide). I did 2 passes each skate and it actually felt waaay sharper while skating than 5/8 and even when I used 1/2 fire in the past. Lots of leg fatigue in a game. Maybe it's some crazy in between because I didn't do enough passes?

  16. Posted · Report reply

    On 8/31/2021 at 5:49 PM, Leif said:

    I’m not suggesting that a skiiled sharpener routinely or often makes mistakes, the ones I trusted were very good, but my suspicion is that a human cannot maintain a truly constant pressure across the entire length of the blade. Over the course of a year the very tiny differences in the amount of metal removed lead to a noticeable change in the profile. I might be wrong - I can’t manually sharpen skates, and I’ve seen no research studies. Sparx make similar claims, admittedly they’re not a disinterested party. It’d be interesting to know how NHL equipment managers sharpen blades. Do they run blades right down? Do they regularly reprofile them? Do they routinely check the profiles? Are they so good that the profiles don’t change? 

    Curious about how the pros get 'er done too.  I've seen the Crosby/Penguins equipment guy video and maybe 1 other.

  17. Posted · Edited by rh71el2 · Report reply

    On 6/21/2021 at 5:20 AM, BenBreeg said:

    Outside in and inside out lacing are the same thing, you are just threading it in a different order.  It still produces the same pattern, only “upside down” and puts the same forces on the skate tongue.  I don’t understand how something so simple to understand persists but it continues to pop up when lace bite is discussed.

    I think they're just saying by doing the very next eyelet "outside in", you are essentially skipping the crossing of the laces entirely in the 1 area (where the lacebite occurs).    You can see the bypassed part in the video.

     

     

  18. Posted · Edited by rh71el2 · Report reply

    I have a Sparx so I use the stone afterward on our skates.  One skate has the LS Pulse steel.  Are we supposed to use a honing stone against steel with that mirror finish?  Because I think it looks marred now.

    Does the leather strop actually do anything?  Am I supposed to use both on regular steel (LS3/LS4)?  Only the leather on mirrored & carbon steel because that is the only compromise?

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Just now, boo10 said:

    I have no impirical data to support my opinion, but I do have 45 years of hockey experience and have skated with many different lacing methods.

    My opinion is that tying the top eyelets will shorten your stride, so you may see an increased stride rate.  The benefits of the increase in stride rate are offset by a loss of power in each stride.  Net result is basically no noticeable difference. 

    Too eyelet undone has much better agility, so my recommendation is to leave it undone if you are comfortable skating that way.

    Thanks & understood - I've started the topic in a more appropriate location now.

     

     

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I was wondering if anyone has ever compared skating with and without the top eyelet on their skates done up.  I've been skating for almost 15 years, but in the last 3+ years, I've left off the top eyelet when tying my skates.  Instantly I felt so much more freedom to do agile turns, lower forward lean (deeper knee bend?), and everything associated with it.  I've even got my kids (starting Bantam) doing it and they like it too.  But my question is whether or not this has a negative effect on anything else like generating speed from a full stride.  Some players like it tied super tight all the way up and I always thought it was personal preference, but I'm genuinely curious if I'm hampering myself now as far as pushes coming out of turns or straight-line speed.  Skating/speed is such a technical thing so every little detail seems to affect something.  Thoughts?

  23. Posted · Report reply

    9 minutes ago, 218hockey said:

    I sharpen skates for one other family and both pairs of their skates are the cheapest, non removable steel. They're always gouged up pretty bad, especially of they've been outside. To get rid of these imperfections completely you'd be cross grinding a mm off every time.

    Also, not sure if this is my imagination but I think the Fire edge is more prone to contact damage. ???

    I guess that's what I'm asking as far as how much to sharpen until they're acceptable.  Do you just do a specific number of passes and call it a day regardless of how it looks?

  24. Posted · Edited by rh71el2 · Report reply

    Question regarding acceptable sharpening.  LS1 steel on my kids' skate is easily chipped.  Have dealt with this numerous times and I'm upgrading their next pair for sure.  But I can never tell when something like this is actually going to affect their skating.  If I brought it to a pro shop, they would just keep sharpening it down until it was completely gone, but with the Sparx, even after 3 passes it remains and I'm not about to go nuts on something that may not affect his skating all that much.  How do you ever tell when it will, because it doesn't always?  Yes I've used the honing stone on it already...

     

    https://i.imgur.com/HruwXt5.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/eOenq9c.jpg


    And to the contrary, I've done 1 pass to perfectly smooth edges (by fingertip feel & visual check) and it actually performed worse as far as holding a turn.  So it seems there's no way to tell other than to skate on it or just sharpen a whole bunch of times to be sure.  Fire 1/2 ring in case you're wondering.

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