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rh71el2

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Everything posted by rh71el2

  1. You may want to try a Fire cut. It lets you slide pretty consistently throughout the sharpened duration. The only issue I've had with it is the edge can go altogether like they say about FBV. That is really an issue on outside edges when you're doing crossovers and you'll go down completely, so maybe for a goalie it's not a big deal.
  2. I'm amazed to see you think 45 minutes each way is acceptable. 😉 I got a Sparx because I didn't want to travel 20 minutes (including highway) each way. Every time I go upstairs to the machine, I joke to my wife - I'm headed to the pro shop. And I'm back in 5 minutes.
  3. Not at that price it's not. May be unpopular opinion, but I think skating without knowing of perfectly-even edges is fine unless you play pros, but that's just me. I consider myself a pretty good skater of over 20 years and I take care of my kids' skates before every game, but no need to go overboard. If I can get one for say $30, I would use it... so why is this thing $80, $150 again?
  4. ^ Also awkward is which direction the skate sits in the machine in their videos... it's pointing left whereas I believe their support (or maybe even in the instruction manual) said to point it to the right. Does it actually matter?
  5. Since it's not an NHL requirement, I'm guessing old habits to have something there. Mantha constantly chews on his too. And so does one of my kids and I constantly have to get him a new one as they're req'd more or less. I'd rather have his jaw clamp on something than not when getting hit. My takeaway from that pic is that McDavid uses a really short stick.
  6. I'm missing the spreadsheet link somehow... can anyone point it out?
  7. How important is it to swap in matching pair of steel? I think the most important factor is that the profile is the same, but does any height difference really matter (perceivable) if you only swap in 1 steel to finish a weekend tournament? I know people can be really anal about their gear, but is it really a big deal in the grand scheme? Anyone actually go through this?
  8. ^ thanks for the thought - I may actually do that for one of them since they're close to sizing-out of it. I'm surprised there's no collaborative opinion on how Tours and Missions fit/feel in comparison to Bauer.
  9. They play ice full time and still use the boots including through spring. The boots don't last longer than a year regardless as they are growing teens.
  10. I am primarily concerned about feel/pitch of the skates. My 2 kids who wear size 6 senior Bauer Vapor 2x & Bauer Supreme 3s Pro are in need of roller hockey skates to play a single season coming up (keep it cheap). They have had a year of roller experience before but I'm looking for a clear picture of what's the most compatible brand in terms of feel now that they need new skates again. I wear Bauer Vapor ice skates and own an old pair of Tour Code 1 (not hi-lo) and wore Missions (hi-lo) before that. I feel like the Tours are an easy transition and the Missions were not, but again, these were very old skates and they may have changed the modern skates. Any tips on what brands work best if they want the least difference? Not many Bauer Vapors on the used market and I'd like to get educated on brand differences regardless. I've found some Tour Volt KV4, Alkali Revel 5, Mission Control Xi skates so far.
  11. We can easily figure that out by measuring the height of the runner and see how many passes it takes to cut it down say a full 1/2 inch. Volunteers? 😄
  12. I do suppose that's right. Interestingly, the 2 additional passes have made it less sharp again. I can't quite tell a difference yet between this 3/4 and 5/8 I had been used to. At least not after 1 [coaching] skate. Bottom line - it takes 4 passes or more to change a hollow going shallower. 2 doesn't cut it.
  13. I've done 2 more passes (total 4 each skate) and will test this afternoon. But I've been thinking more logically about this. If I was on 5/8, the hollow would be deeper than when I apply a new sharpening of 3/4. That 3/4 pass or two, if it doesn't reach down to the current hollow of 5/8, will effectively just make the 2 edges flatter & wider than it was. And that's why I was feeling more bite.
  14. How many passes to change your sharpening? I used the sharpie method and after 1 pass it was completely gone so that's unreliable IMO. I'm trying to change from 5/8 fire to 3/4 fire (more glide). I did 2 passes each skate and it actually felt waaay sharper while skating than 5/8 and even when I used 1/2 fire in the past. Lots of leg fatigue in a game. Maybe it's some crazy in between because I didn't do enough passes?
  15. I did the Tydan assessment and they recommended a Bauer Pulse DLC (diamond-like-carbon coating) and CagOne 35/65 profile. I checked their shop and it's all Bauer. What happened to their own steel? https://tydanblades.com/collections/player-blades Is that any different than the Pulse steel that comes on something like a Supreme 3S Pro skate?
  16. Curious about how the pros get 'er done too. I've seen the Crosby/Penguins equipment guy video and maybe 1 other.
  17. I think they're just saying by doing the very next eyelet "outside in", you are essentially skipping the crossing of the laces entirely in the 1 area (where the lacebite occurs). You can see the bypassed part in the video.
  18. I have a Sparx so I use the stone afterward on our skates. One skate has the LS Pulse steel. Are we supposed to use a honing stone against steel with that mirror finish? Because I think it looks marred now. Does the leather strop actually do anything? Am I supposed to use both on regular steel (LS3/LS4)? Only the leather on mirrored & carbon steel because that is the only compromise?
  19. Thanks & understood - I've started the topic in a more appropriate location now.
  20. I was wondering if anyone has ever compared skating with and without the top eyelet on their skates done up. I've been skating for almost 15 years, but in the last 3+ years, I've left off the top eyelet when tying my skates. Instantly I felt so much more freedom to do agile turns, lower forward lean (deeper knee bend?), and everything associated with it. I've even got my kids (starting Bantam) doing it and they like it too. But my question is whether or not this has a negative effect on anything else like generating speed from a full stride. Some players like it tied super tight all the way up and I always thought it was personal preference, but I'm genuinely curious if I'm hampering myself now as far as pushes coming out of turns or straight-line speed. Skating/speed is such a technical thing so every little detail seems to affect something. Thoughts?
  21. Turned out to be completely trouble-free on the ice. Go figure.
  22. I guess that's what I'm asking as far as how much to sharpen until they're acceptable. Do you just do a specific number of passes and call it a day regardless of how it looks?
  23. Question regarding acceptable sharpening. LS1 steel on my kids' skate is easily chipped. Have dealt with this numerous times and I'm upgrading their next pair for sure. But I can never tell when something like this is actually going to affect their skating. If I brought it to a pro shop, they would just keep sharpening it down until it was completely gone, but with the Sparx, even after 3 passes it remains and I'm not about to go nuts on something that may not affect his skating all that much. How do you ever tell when it will, because it doesn't always? Yes I've used the honing stone on it already... https://i.imgur.com/HruwXt5.jpg https://i.imgur.com/eOenq9c.jpg And to the contrary, I've done 1 pass to perfectly smooth edges (by fingertip feel & visual check) and it actually performed worse as far as holding a turn. So it seems there's no way to tell other than to skate on it or just sharpen a whole bunch of times to be sure. Fire 1/2 ring in case you're wondering.
  24. Kid broke another Trigger 5 Pro so going back to Bauer. I see the Flylite is now on clearance/sale. Does that mean a new line for low-kickpoint is coming out? What/when?
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