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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble


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  1. I love how you assume the issue is people are too lazy to move the wheel lol, I am set on setting 4 which is too high, if I move the wheel down it is too far down, pretty simple stuff, the wheel needs 1/2 settings in my opinion
  2. I was told the issue I was having is "normal". While it may be, it is digging into my steel and I cant imagine it is going to go well but I wont know for a while. I don't think it transitions well on STEP or LS3 (any taller steel). That being said, take that with a grain of salt since I have only done a few sharpenings and am not trying to badmouth the company, the product seems solid, I just don't know that the transition when it hits tall steel is as flawless (you can see the minor dent with 1 sharpening on my old post a week or so ago). I want the Sparx to work more than you know, we have a huge wait to get sharpenings at the rink and it literally takes an hour+ extra on game day going early (thats assuming you even get a good sharpening). I am going to keep updating in here. Between answers here and answers from the company I have heard move the wheel down and move the wheel up, basically trial and error which sucks since I may ruin brand new steel but I'm willing to figure it out
  3. Turning the toe to the right fixed most of the problem, I may play around with the height but its at 4, moving it to 3 seemed too far down (maybe if there were a 3.5 setting) but it doesn't really skip anymore with the toe turned right. The LS3 steel has a big heel on it so it makes sense. If you look at my LS3 steel picture and compare it to normal steel its a significantly different shape. Anyway all good for now, thanks
  4. I just sent a video of it with the toe facing right, definitely seems better, but check the email and get back to me, thanks
  5. I am saying the toe still has the issue that the heel has (that little skip, its just not as extreme). Considering most steel is shorter, wouldn't lowering the wheel help assuming I can as far as the picture I posted of my contact point goes? I can tell if that skip didn't happen the sharpening would be perfect (it skated good), I am just trying to avoid making an indentation and hard hit at initial contact since long term it would get worse
  6. Ok, I know I can just test this to know the answer, but wouldn't the re-contact with the heel when switched around just do the same thing? Or is the contact on the far side (when the toe is facing right) not as extreme? Because per the picture I posted, the toe still has a little dent just not as defined
  7. I am getting some wheel "skipping" with my LS3 steel, I would rather not use the goalie risers like some say since it wasn't meant to need them and I feel like a ton of people have to use STEP steel that is also higher (like the LS3 steel). Here is my contact point and a picture showing almost an indentation of 4 passes. Doesn't look ideal but seemed to skate ok, that being said after 10 sharpenings with 4 passes each I would imagine this would ruin my steel and almost give it a large indentation with a point where if skips and transitions to the bottom (from too much pressure on impact I guess). I could always move the contact point down, but I feel like I would be missing important heal and toe sharpening points. Anyone know if I move this contact point down if I am going to suffer on heal/toe sharpness? (PICTURE LINKS BELOW, let me know if there is a way to post them, there doesn't seem to be) Picture 1 Picture 2 of wheel contact point
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