AfftonDad
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Posts posted by AfftonDad
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If it's inconsistently wrong, I would say debris on the blade/checker is messing you up. If it is consistently wrong, since there is not a lot of rocket science built into those things, I would expect that one of the pieces might have been messed up in manufacturing. For example if one of the pieces was "out of tolerance" and not actually constructed to right angles, you would sharpen until the edges APPEARED even. However, they would actually be uneven to compensate for the error in the edge checker. So when you flipped the skate/checker, I would think the observed error would then actually be 2X the error that was in the manufacturing of the edge checker. Just a guess though.
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anyone had difficulty doing forward to backward transitions with a forward pitched skate like makos or grafs? Where catch the heel of the runner and get tossed down
I noticed that when I first got them. Not super often but every now and then I would be doing a quick transition from forwards to backwards and i would catch an edge at the heel. It was really weird because whenever it would happen it would be like "where the hell did that come from?" I haven't really felt it on my VH skates (with CXN holders) at all. I think the extra stiffness in the VHs allows me to "power through" that little bit of an edge catch a little better than the Makos did. Maybe that or I have just gotten used to it.
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The blackedge website says you can get "custom" runners done. I don't know how much it costs though.
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I sent a guy who has only used ROH to the LHS yesterday to try FBV. I told him to try 90-75 (he's a big guy). He tells me that when he went to the shop and told the LHS guy that he wanted 90-75 the LHS guy said that he didn't know what that means. And this is an LHS that has been doing FBV as long as anyone. The guy eventually told the LHS guy 1/2" (since he didn't know any better). So now I don't know if he ended up with 1/2" ROH OR 95-75 FBV OR 100-50 FBV. That's not right.
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I was wondering just last night if using one of these on the heel/ankle while warm would be a good idea...
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-6-in-Medium-Trigger-Clamp-DWHT83139/204389199
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Wow! Heel lifts on Makos. Those were made for a forward pitch junkie!
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Where the black mark ends up on the wheel is predominantly set by how high the arbor is that holds the wheel (and consequently how centered the wheel is relative to the center of the shape on the spinner). You can loosen the set screws (there are two of them, one in front of the other) in order to raise and lower the wheel. Be advised though that it is a tedious, trial and error process to center the wheel. And even when the wheel is centered relative to one spinner, there will be some variability from spinner to spinner and even on the same spinner depending on whether or not you put the markings up or down. The good news is, it doesn't really matter that the line be centered. If it is excessively too high or low (based on your picture, yours isn't) it can cause problems when doing thicker blades (for example goalie skates). If it is REALLY misaligned (for example the black line touches the top or bottom of the wheel, this would be a problem.
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i went from 9/16 to 100/50 and love it. good bite with good speed and very easy to slide sideways without any grabbing.
i find it hard to believe that the 1/2 ROH would compare best to 100/50. it was always too deep for me.
The thing that they are comparing in the charts is the edge angle. In other words, the angle of the fang at 100-50 is "the same" as the angle (at the edge) of 1/2" ROH. However, there are two other parameters that ARE NOT being (and can't be) compared... flat width and edge depth. For example 95-75 AND 100-50 both have the same edge angle and that edge angle would be roughly "the same" as 1/2" ROH. However, I think that most people who understand what the numbers mean would agree that there should be a difference in the way that 95-75 and 100-50 feel. Murray Wilson told me early on that you can't really put too much faith in those comparison charts because the comparison that they imply can't REALLY be made. He said the only reason they came up with them was because the shops insisted on having something to go by and to give someone just entering FBV a ROUGH idea where to jump in at.
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Also great to learn that Step is making steel for the CXN holder.
If you go with Step Steel for the CXN, be advised that it has been reported to be neutral, not forward pitched as is the OEM steel. So you'll loose approximately half of your forward pitch if you don't have it profiled.
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If I ever get another pair and he offers double and/or beefier thread, I'm definitely going with that. I'm loosing a lot of stiches I guess from the skate sides rubbing on the ice. So far gel super glue has been doing the trick to hold the material down where the stitching is gone (if necessary)
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Empirical evidence is better than theoretical arguments. I believe your measurements.
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In the same model of holders, there is a possibility that their pitch is not the same.
When I used CCM boots, I attached Tuuk's 272mm holders onto it.
After CCM, I changed to Bauer boots and I decided to down its holder size to 263mm.
263 and 254mm holders have the same pitch.
But 272 holder has 3mm higher heel.
So now I'm using heel lift shims of 3mm thickness for my VH boots with 263 holders.
Unless I am misunderstanding you, the fact that the rear would be higher on the bigger holder is just trigonometry. I would actually be more surprised by the fact that the heel of the 254 and the 263 would be the same.
Depending on where/how the holder length is measured, I believe you would have something like the following (assuming an approximate pitch angle of 3.8 degrees... the value I have measured bauer holders to roughly be)
Tan(3.8deg) * 254mm = 16.87mm
Tan(3.8deg) * 263mm = 17.47mm
Tan(3.8deg) * 272mm = 18.07mm
This would indicate to me that the rear of a 263 holder should be about 0.6mm higher than 254 and 272 should be about 1.2mm higher than 254.
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I love my Mako CXN holders on my VHs, but I came from Makos (which I loved). If you want a lot of forward pitch (around +3 relative to Bauers) put the CXN holders on them.
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I agree with Chad. If I felt 90-75 didn't have enough bite I would have tried 95-75. I think it is GENERALLY best to tweak the first number within a fixed value for the second number. I would consider the second number the coarse adjustment and the first number the fine adjustment. There are of course overlaps, but the overlaps are too hard to quantify. If you FIX the second number, you will always know what kind of change you are going to get by changing the first number.
A loose analogy for those who are familiar with bicycle gearing would be that the second number is like which of the three chainrings you are using and the first number would be which cog of the rear cassette your are using. There are certainly overlaps, but generally you tweak by changing the rear cog within a particular chainring, not the other way around.
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Although I agree with the first part that most teams have the ability to do it as some players like it and have come from teams that use it. I know that the Islanders most guys use it there just because of working with some of the players. Now your second part I highly doubt unless it is this same team, (as just mentioned) as Doug Weights father does some skates for those guys and the trainers know him. I doubt any players are having blades shipped out for sharpening to many legal issues unless the trainer is doing it himself shipping to get that done.
He didn't get specific about how he believed they were getting them done. I would also doubt that they are having them shipped out as well as I would doubt that they are going to their local LHS. However, if I were making a million dollars a year based in part on my skating and I couldn't get my skates sharpened the way that I wanted, the price of a portable (or even to some extent a full size machine) wouldn't even be a consideration. Hell, I'm NOT making a million dollars a year and I bought a portable. I remember seeing a picture on MSH of a pro doing his skates on a portable during the last lockout, so I don't think it is south of possible that it could happen.
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I'm sure too many to list. A guy at Blackstone told me that 26 of the teams currently have the equipment to do FBV. He went further to say that he thinks that there are people on the few teams where the EQM doesn't do it that are getting it through other means.
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Another side question: How do you know when a mini-spinner is no longer good? Blackstone customer service told me after 5-6 grinding wheels (depending on frequency of dressing), but are there physical signs to knowing when it's time to replace a spinner?
Five or six wheels!!!??? If that's the case I'm WAAAAYYY overdue.
I asked the same question a long time ago earlier in this thread and I believe it was JR that said that you'll know when the spinner is done because it will have a bare spot(s) worn through the diamond coating and it will throw sparks when dressing. I have only had one spinner do that... my first one... and it happened in only a month. That was before I found out from here that there is initially too much drag in the drag cap and you have to flatten the washer a little. Having said that, I lost one of my spinners recently (rolled behind some cabinets that I'm not about to empty and move) and had to get a new one and when I put it on I realized that it dresses the wheel much more quickly than the old ones. Although, I use one of the old ones on my skates at it still feels exactly like it always has. So I'm not switching to a new one yet.
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OK. What would be faster then.....100-50 or 90-75?
My son skates on 100-50 and overall likes it but was wondering if I went to a 90-75 it would be little more speed/glide?
You can't really change two of the variables (width and depth) and make a definitive statement about which one is "faster". You would do yourself a favor to compare different widths within the same edge depth. In other words 100-50 vs 95-50 vs 90-50 vs 85-50, OR 100-75 vs 95-75 vs 90-75 vs 85-75, etc. If you are changing both edge depth and flat width, you really have to try them to see how they feel. However, I would think that most people would agree that 90-75 has less bite than 100-50 (if that means faster to you). Having said that though, even on the same edge depth it would be difficult to say which one is "faster" overall because you may loose some ability to push (and corner) as you go more shallow. A loose analogy might be, If someone asked you which was faster, a heavier car or a lighter car (assuming everything else was the same) most people would say the lighter car. However, if the lighter car didn't have enough weight to get traction and accelerate, the heavier car might be faster.
Digressing a bit, but just saw that Blackstone has a new edge checker on their website. Does anyone know the price? Is it worth it over the bat gauge? I finally figured out how to work the bat gauge, so I can get decent results with it, but it still is not without it's inconsistency issues.
I just bought one recently (it wasn't on the website yet... it was before the new site). It was $125. I couldn't get my (first generation) batgage to work. So I then got the BR100. I recently got the Butterflygage so that I wouldn't have to tape the magnetic piece anymore. Comparing to the original batgage, in my opinion there is no comparison (butterflygage is much better).
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OK... I finally love these things. My blister due to the bad (and replaced) rivet is finally gone and there is now no arch pain, I got my hollow dialed in (85-75) and I figured out that I was tying them too tight. I finally like them better than my Makos in all respects (and I loved my Makos).
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Even though they are the same height, there is a wider flat on the 95 as opposed to the 90, making that inner angle of the edge more pronounced. It will dig into the ice harder/deeper, providing more drag.
I thought that might be the reason, but it seemed unlikely to me that the runner wouldn't already be dug in all the way to the flat and therefore "resting" on the flat in both cases. Thanks!
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I have a question for those of you that have given this some thought (or can give it some thought now)...
I have three 50 depth spinners (90-50, 95-50 and 100-50). As expected 95-50 has more bite than 90-50, and 100-50 has more bite than 95-50. And that makes sense to me. But 95-50 feels like it is "slower" (more drag) than 90-50 to me. Since the depth is the same (50) there shouldn't be an increase in drag due to the depth. And since the 95 width is actually WIDER than the 90 flat width, this would theoretically increase glide which you would think would make it feel "faster". Is it just "in my head" that 95-50 feels like it has more drag and is slower than 90-50? If not, what do you think the explanation is for this?
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I guess the M4A1s that some 17 year old's carry in Afghanistan are not that dangerous!
Just kidding. I'm sure your right. I realize the US government is able to make exemptions for whatever it wants.
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To a 49 year old (me), anything under 30 looks 17! You have a policy that includes a minimum age for sharpening skates? Better watch out... age discrimination! I was thinking about teaching my 13 year old to sharpen his own skates. Guess I better rethink that.
BTW, I usually have an edge checker in my bag, I have seriously noticed (no lie) an improvement in STL in the past year or two on edge evenness of guys in the locker room that ask me to check their skates. To be honest I would say it is rare now that there is more than one click of unevenness.
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I popped some stitches where the vibram material covers the outstep (I think by dragging my leg on the ice to break up a pass from the corner to the slot). Does anyone know if the vibram stuff is glued to the composite as well as stitched? I'm going to be really sad if those stitches all start unraveling and the vibram stuff starts flapping around.
Which edge checker ?
in Ice Hockey Equipment
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I'm using the line piece from my BR-100 as well (because it is longer).