My SL Broke and I dont know where to cut

[Fire0nIce228 1]

The blade on my SL broke and I can't see a fusepoint or any thing cause the lower part of the stick is sprayed black. If I buy a blade, hold it up against it and cut the shaft where the tennon of the blade starts as I hold it up beside it, will that be a close starting point as to where to cut without having to flip the stick.

[Shagel 0]

start cutting where a tapered blade would fit and then heat up the fuse point a bit and knock the fus point out with a object ( ex what i use cutian rack)

[ktang 34]

This is what I did for an older Synergy:

I got a dowel rod, sharpened one end with a pencil sharpener, put it in from the handle side as far as possible, and rammed it through the foam padding.

This gave me a rough measurement to the top of the hosel tenon.

I then measured the length of a hosel tenon down from that point and added another half inch as a fudge factor to get my first cutting point candidate.

I used my vernier calipers, measured the thickness of the shaft wall, doubled that, added it to the thickness of the replacement blade's tenon, and found the point on the shaft that matched the total measurement to get the second cutting point candidate. In my case it matched the first cutting point candidate.

If they didn't match, I would have cut at the lower point and worked upwards.

[Miike 1]

I had cut my SL about 1.5-2 inches above the fust point and left a good taper end, My stick was also painted black but fuse point is still visible.

[Dougie8 0]

I had an older SL and cut it right below the easton logo and it wasnt hollow yet. not sure how if it was sprayed on, take the paint off and repaint it?

[J-Shera 0]

its simple, cut low and work your way up.

[cobrAA 0]

with my SL i found that the perfect combo was standard blade and not tapered... you may just give it a try...just cut where the hosel/tenon start getting curved...