Sharpening Stones

[TML4LIFE 0]

What are the pros/cons of different sharpening finishing stones?

[JR Boucicaut 3809]

Rougher wheels will cut into the steel faster but the finish won't be as detailed as a finer grit wheel.

[JR Boucicaut 3809]

Whoops, I thought you were talking about wheels...

Okay...stones...

Same concept applies...the finer the stone, the more detailed the honing will be. You take a 100 grit to a 220 grit stone and you will notice less burrs - which is why your 100 grit stone should be used before you sharpen to remove the major burrs. Then you take a Miraclestone for example - it is a very fine grit abrasive stone.

Keep in mind that most stones that you find on the market are not true grit stones. (I mean the cheap ProGuard/A&R stones.) That grit is actually sprayed on. That is why after a while, you will notice it is smooth underneath.

I use Maximum-Edge stones for my sharpenings. While they are expensive, they make a long stone which is great, and it is a true grit stone. Clean them often and they will last YEARS. I've been using a 220 grit stone for two years now without any signs of wear.

[Trooper 8]

Not to hijack but on a related note. While I realize the hand sharpeners don't do a great job, I am looking for something to have on the bench if a player gets a nick in his blade or just to try to perform an emergency repair on an edge to get him through the game. Is there anything out there better than others?

[hockeymom 2]

Not to hijack but on a related note.  While I realize the hand sharpeners don't do a great job, I am looking for something to have on the bench if a player gets a nick in his blade or just to try to perform an emergency repair on an edge to get him through the game.  Is there anything out there better than others?

The miraclestone thread pinned in Equipment might be useful.

miraclestone link

[JR Boucicaut 3809]

Miraclestone would definitely work, or even a (gasp!) Sweet-Stick...but not in the way you are thinking. Swipe it sideways as if you are honing a skate (don't put it between) and you'll be just fine.

[TML4LIFE 0]

Whoops, I thought you were talking about wheels...

Okay...stones...

Same concept applies...the finer the stone, the more detailed the honing will be. You take a 100 grit to a 220 grit stone and you will notice less burrs - which is why your 100 grit stone should be used before you sharpen to remove the major burrs. Then you take a Miraclestone for example - it is a very fine grit abrasive stone.

Keep in mind that most stones that you find on the market are not true grit stones. (I mean the cheap ProGuard/A&R stones.) That grit is actually sprayed on. That is why after a while, you will notice it is smooth underneath.

I use Maximum-Edge stones for my sharpenings. While they are expensive, they make a long stone which is great, and it is a true grit stone. Clean them often and they will last YEARS. I've been using a 220 grit stone for two years now without any signs of wear.

Thanks JR...best way to clean a stone?

since you mentioned wheels.. I have a quick question.. why are finer grit wheels often recommended for goalie skates?

Thanks

[JR Boucicaut 3809]

I use Goo-Gone and scrub it down with a rag. You could use WD-40 but it just gets greasy, then you have to wash it with water.

Now, are we talking different colors here? Because your standard all-purpose wheel will be 80 grit. Detail wheels are better for figure/goal skates because they are carbon steel. Since that steel is easier to sharpen, you don't need a wheel that cuts aggressively.

[jbyun04 7]

Miraclestone would definitely work, or even a (gasp!) Sweet-Stick...but not in the way you are thinking. Swipe it sideways as if you are honing a skate (don't put it between) and you'll be just fine.

what about that Blademaster Lil' Red?

crap?

[JR Boucicaut 3809]

I tried it. It seemed to me that all it did was scratch my steel.