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Hiub

Clearcoating the Flyweights

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Hey JR, I remember reading a post somewhere saying that you would clearcoat your flyweights so that the graphics wouldn't scratch off. I just bought 2 of these shafts for $30 each brand new, both meta, one 12-9 and the other 10-7. I did a test at the bottom of one of the sticks, but the finish seems too slick. I am using regular clearcoat spray from Home Depot. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Fred.

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I took polyurethane and gave my latest two shafts 4 coats. It's given them a 'dry' feeling to them, if you will. I used to have issues with the shafts when they were brand new - they were too slippery for me. The solution was to peel the bottom part of the stick off. I haven't used these just yet though.

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Yeah, that is my problem. The stick feels dry and I don't know how that would translate with gloves on. It shouldn't be that big of a deal if the graphics come off, Its the stick that matters anyways. I wish I could make them grip somehow, heh custom stick'um grip flyweights, that would be nice.

Thanks for the reply, Fred.

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Have you tried candy-caning your stick with tape? I like the tape grip better than any synthetic spray type grip.

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You could also get a tackifying cloth like used in baseball. We market it for hockey now as well. Has a little beeswax in it and doesn't get messy.

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Have you tried candy-caning your stick with tape? I like the tape grip better than any synthetic spray type grip.

I tried the candy cane tape job but found it too cause too much friction and heat between my plams and the tape/shaft. I like a light grip, what I do is take used up tape rub the stick side along the shaft so the residue can get onto the shaft I find it to be a nice alternative since I can grip it and slide down for a slapper without excess friction. Thats proabbly not too good for the palms though seeing how the tape residue might cause the plam to break down or just make it sticky but so far thats not the case.

Just a quick question on the side: I was putting in a blade and I kind of overdosed on the glue so it all just piled up onto the outter walls of the shaft. That game I took a few nasty slashes to that part with the excess dried up glue and I felt it cushioned the impact quite well so my question to you is if I purposely put excess glue onto the hozel of the blade (where I get slashed a lot) will it cushion the impact from slashes and give my blade extended life since I believe the dried up glue cushions impact. Any oppions suggestions? I just wanted to know if it was a good idea.

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Nah, I think our definition of 'dry' isn't the same.

When I polyurethaned my shafts last week, the stick feels really slick - almost Polarfibre-ish.

When I first started using Flys I used to melt stick wax in certain areas. That turned to be quite messy.

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When I polyurethaned my shafts last week, the stick feels really slick - almost Polarfibre-ish.

While I've never actually felt Polarfibre, I've never seen anyone describe it as slick. Everyone says it's like a sandpapery grip.

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JR Yes I know what you're talking about, feels almost like really really fine polarfibre. I have tried candycaning one of my sticks once, but I don't like the way it feels, as when I slide my hand up and down the palms make the tape lift up. Ryan, I would love to know more about that cloth, I have never heard of anything like that before.

Whip, that sounds like it might be able to cushion the impact a bit. Who knows, it might keep a carbon blade from chipping so much.

Thanks for all the replies, Fred.

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Maybe I'm using the wrong terminology. It's not smooth. It's been a long day. The beer isn't helping either.

Hiub - the Easton tack cloth should work, or make a beater with some reversed tape and a broken stick and rub down where you want grip.

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That's interesting, I've never thought to leave the glob of glue on. With the gooier glues (clear stuff used for crafts), it would provide a cushoning from slashes. With some harder glues (yellow, and anything on a new blade), you would just get cracked glue everywhere. Run a bead of the gooier glue along the corners of your shaft and mabe that'll be the protection and grip you're after.

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