Which (old/damaged) OPS to cut...

[AWE46M3 0]

Im going to venture into cutting an old and/or broken OPS and have the following to choose from:

Synergy SL (100 flex)

Synergy ST Grip (100 flex)

Stealth CNT (100 flex)

Mission Fuel (100 I believe)

Condition wise, they are all about the same; I guess my concern is taking the "best" of these and butchering it in my first attempt. How would you guys rank these? Which do you think would make the "best" shaft? As of now, I'm thinking of starting with the SL or ST both shafts just feel like UltaLites to me... Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!

In case anyone is wondering about the damage - none of the shafts are damaged. The damages are the cracking blades.

[sinkhole84 0]

fuel

[AnthonyJTa 0]

IIRC, someone mentioned the Fuel comes apart rather easily. I'd try the heat & pull method before cutting...

[habsfan87 0]

I would try either the st or the sl, both fairly similar and have been done many times. Just cut low and slowly work your way up..I assume your trying to make it a tapered shaft.? If so maybe have a blade ready to try and fit in as you cut up the shaft

[DamnLocust 0]

The ST and SL will be the easiest. If my prostock Fuel was any indication, it will be the same as the eastons. Line up a tapered blade with the blade on the stick, and cut just above (1/8"-1/4") where the hosel ends. You should be able to clearly see where the shaft(outer walls) and blade tenon (inner walls) meet. chisel that out, and you're done.

The CNT will be a bit tricky, since it's a true OPS and the taper doesn't have the same dimensions as the others. You'll need to cut it little by little until your blade fits snugly, but it can be done.

[Law Goalie 147]

If you cut *just* enough to get through the shaft walls, you can also try heating the fuse-point and knocking out the blade with a length of rebar - saves you some time chiseling.

[AWE46M3 0]

The ST and SL will be the easiest. If my prostock Fuel was any indication, it will be the same as the eastons. Line up a tapered blade with the blade on the stick, and cut just above (1/8"-1/4") where the hosel ends. You should be able to clearly see where the shaft(outer walls) and blade tenon (inner walls) meet. chisel that out, and you're done.

The CNT will be a bit tricky, since it's a true OPS and the taper doesn't have the same dimensions as the others. You'll need to cut it little by little until your blade fits snugly, but it can be done.

Yeah, when I was comparing where each starts to taper I noticed the CNT tapers much further down the shaft than the rest of these. I'm thinking the CNT might be good to just make a standard blade shaft out of. I posted earlier about this and someone said their friend cut one from them to take tapered blades, so we'll see I guess...

I've seen a few pics around with people cutting their SLs so as some mentioned here, I'll most like start with that one; as for the Fuel, if it is as easy and just heating and removing the blade, I'll wait on that because I'm doing this more to experiment with actually cutting the shafts.

Anyway, thanks for the replies guys.

[Rustpot 1]

If you cut *just* enough to get through the shaft walls, you can also try heating the fuse-point and knocking out the blade with a length of rebar - saves you some time chiseling.

I wasn't aware that had worked with an Easton stick.

I've cut an SL. My LHS owner took it to the chop saw and kept cutting until there was room for the blade. No chiseling on that one, but I'm not sure if more length could have been kept in the process.

You will loose length on the shaft though. My SL had the retail 3" composite plug in there and was way too tall for me, afterwards it needed 6-7" of wood to get to the right length for me.

[fastmiele 59]

IIRC, someone mentioned the Fuel comes apart rather easily. I'd try the heat & pull method before cutting...

I don't know about that one. My friend broke one at the hosel area. I took a look at the blade and there was absolutely nothing inside the hosel. I take a look at the broken shaft and there is absolutely nothing inside either. No tenon to be found whatsoever. I take a closer inspection inside the shaft and the area where a normal blade would enter, I see a seam line where the shaft and blade join. I have no idea how they can do that. I guess its the same thing they use to join those old Vapor shafts with the wheel barrow handle.

http://img355.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0357nq3.jpg

[tips09 0]

when i cut my cnt it worked out perfectly no problem whatsoever with a tenon and the shaft being short, i have to cut quite a bit farther up on my ST compared to my cnt

[SuperMan3 1]

If you cut *just* enough to get through the shaft walls, you can also try heating the fuse-point and knocking out the blade with a length of rebar - saves you some time chiseling.

I wasn't aware that had worked with an Easton stick.

I've cut an SL. My LHS owner took it to the chop saw and kept cutting until there was room for the blade. No chiseling on that one, but I'm not sure if more length could have been kept in the process.

You will loose length on the shaft though. My SL had the retail 3" composite plug in there and was way too tall for me, afterwards it needed 6-7" of wood to get to the right length for me.

I'm pretty sure Law Goalie is talking about a tapered shaft not a standard

[habsfan87 0]

I can't see the ST or the SL for that matter being much different than 1st and 2nd gen synergy's and they've been done many many times, same way as damnlocust said. I'm sure you could even find pictures of some as a reference on where to cut. As for the CNT you might as well keep cutting slowly up the shaft to see if you can fit a tapered in there instead of just hacking it off and sticking a standard in there, nothing to lose really..unless it starts to get too short for you. I bought some broken ST grips off ebay that im gonna cut when they get here so I'll find out soon enough but Ive done both 1st and 2nd gen synergy's by trial and error method

[AnthonyJTa 0]

IIRC, someone mentioned the Fuel comes apart rather easily. I'd try the heat & pull method before cutting...

I don't know about that one. My friend broke one at the hosel area. I took a look at the blade and there was absolutely nothing inside the hosel. I take a look at the broken shaft and there is absolutely nothing inside either. No tenon to be found whatsoever. I take a closer inspection inside the shaft and the area where a normal blade would enter, I see a seam line where the shaft and blade join. I have no idea how they can do that. I guess its the same thing they use to join those old Vapor shafts with the wheel barrow handle.

http://img355.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc0357nq3.jpg

Thanks for the pic... I only assumed so, because a pro stock V-Hex I bought used has developed quite a profound line right across the bottom when the shaft/blade would meet. I have a feeling the blade is starting to go soft on me, so I was planning on doing to exploratory cutting/heating, etc

[BMcDonald19 0]

the way the CNT is made when you cut it, it would be the easiest to put a blade in. and it is a nice shaft

[Law Goalie 147]

I'm pretty sure Law Goalie is talking about a tapered shaft not a standard

I was, but I don't see why it wouldn't work for a standard - and it would let you keep the shaft almost completely intact. Every inch counts...

[li7039 0]

Mission Axis....

[lampliter87 8]

Can Vapor XX's be heated and pulled?

[DamnLocust 0]

The original ones were able to be heated and pulled. (The all black ones, made by Inno).

I had one of the later ones that broke near the fuse point, and I wound up chiseling it out.