Slapshot head position?

[Chadd 916]

Is the blade the part of the stick that usually breaks? I've been playing since last September and I've only broken one stick, a composite and it was above where the join would be on a two piece stick. So I've not much experience of the pros or cons of one piece vs two in terms of breakages...

Everyone is different. I break blades but shafts tend to hold up a long time for me. Having said that, $5 says I break one tonight.

[Neal 41]

I've not cut down the wood stick at all (although the Lidstrom is LONG, how tall is he?)

This is a common misconception. Lidstrom's actual stick (the one he uses) is likely nothing like the one you bought. The length, the curve, the flex none of those are patterned after Lidstrom's actual stick. Think of the name on the stick as a code for the type of curve and nothing more.

As for breaking sticks, I'm the same as Chadd, I rarely break shafts, but wear out blades frequently. So I use a two piece combo. I use wood blades, though, because I like to tweak my curve via a torch and a vise.

As a relative rookie, I'd recommend a two piece combo for that very fact - it lets you experiment with different curves for a much lower cost.

[danielb 0]

Thanks again for all the advice Chadd, Neal & Co.

A two piece composite stick is starting to sound more and more advantageous. If I'm looking for as sturdy a composite stick as possible with a PM9 or Fosberg (think that's Eastons equivalent) is there any makes or models I should be avoiding? From what I understand composite sticks are sturdier than wood but above a certain price point composites start getting lighter and hence less sturdy?

Does $60-80 for a composite shaft and $30-50 for a composite blade e.g. Bauer One50 sound about right to get a sturdy stick and avoid the lightweight less sturdy components?

[danielb 0]

I've not cut down the wood stick at all (although the Lidstrom is LONG, how tall is he?)

This is a common misconception. Lidstrom's actual stick (the one he uses) is likely nothing like the one you bought. The length, the curve, the flex none of those are patterned after Lidstrom's actual stick. Think of the name on the stick as a code for the type of curve and nothing more.

So if the names on sticks don't actually mean the stick is the pattern of the player's whose name it is on the stick how do you go about selecting a stick for say a defenceman? I'd naivially assumed Lidstrom is defenceman so his stick should be good for another defenceman. The only game I've played with sticks before was field hockey and I played in goal so there really wasn't much pattern variation involves with those sticks at that time. Is it all about how the stick feels rather than how it would theoretically perform for a player in a certain position/role.

I'm currently favouring playing defence so being able to pass hard and accurately, poke check and take snap or slap shots from the point are all important to me and the PM9 seems a good blade for that usage although it doesn't lift the puck quite as easily as the 'Lidstorm' pattern but it seems allot more accurate as its got allot less curve.

[Chadd 916]

I've not cut down the wood stick at all (although the Lidstrom is LONG, how tall is he?)

This is a common misconception. Lidstrom's actual stick (the one he uses) is likely nothing like the one you bought. The length, the curve, the flex none of those are patterned after Lidstrom's actual stick. Think of the name on the stick as a code for the type of curve and nothing more.

So if the names on sticks don't actually mean the stick is the pattern of the player's whose name it is on the stick how do you go about selecting a stick for say a defenceman? I'd naivially assumed Lidstrom is defenceman so his stick should be good for another defenceman. The only game I've played with sticks before was field hockey and I played in goal so there really wasn't much pattern variation involves with those sticks at that time. Is it all about how the stick feels rather than how it would theoretically perform for a player in a certain position/role.

I'm currently favouring playing defence so being able to pass hard and accurately, poke check and take snap or slap shots from the point are all important to me and the PM9 seems a good blade for that usage although it doesn't lift the puck quite as easily as the 'Lidstorm' pattern but it seems allot more accurate as its got allot less curve.

I used to use a Modano/Forsberg/PM9 style curve on defense and it's still the only retail curve I can use. The most important thing os to find a blade that you like and works for you. I like the flat bottom of the Lidstrom and Modano but I prefer a pure heel curve with a little more loft. SInce nobody offers it at retail I have to scrounge for the TPS P31s that I use.

[danielb 0]

Cheers for all the stick advice, I picked up a Bauer One75 composite stick in PM9 on Friday for $100, it would appear PM9 is now called 'Malkin', which I think is the third name change since I started using it (St Lious -> Hossa -> Malkin)? The One75 seems a bit heavier than the other composite sticks so hopefully it will hold up longer than the week the Bauer Vapor I had before it lasted, the guys in the shop thought it was one of the more robust composites out there...