Stick blade too long

[Esa_10 1]

Anyone ever cut or grind down the toe on a composite stick blade that was too long?

I've done it with wood but never composite. Any suggestions?

[reyno2ac 0]

I haven't cut down a composite blade but given the way they are made I don't think it would be a great idea. You would probably lose a lot of stiffness in the blade.

Then again, I may have no idea what I'm talking about

[calishark28 0]

I definitely would NOT cut down a composite blade. Doing so will take away from the structure of the blade and ruin it.

[lampliter87 8]

What blade is too long that you would think of cutting it down?

[tml67 0]

Aren't most composite blades hollow in the middle? If the toe is cut, the tip of the blade would be hollow. I would not try to shave it down.

[Esa_10 1]

Blade is a Sakic - Elite.

Aren't most composite blades hollow in the middle? If the toe is cut, the tip of the blade would be hollow. I would not try to shave it down.

I figure if you can the shaft of the same material you can cut the blade. Really I'm not worried about cutting it, I'm more curious as to the best way to get the rounded toe back.

[NYRfan 0]

cutting prepreg carbon foam core blades is bad for the blade as stated, especially eastons, which are brittle to begin with. I suppose if you really wanted to, you could use a crossgrinder to carefully shape it, though i would not recommend doing so.

[cptjeff 0]

Blade is a Sakic - Elite.

Aren't most composite blades hollow in the middle? If the toe is cut, the tip of the blade would be hollow. I would not try to shave it down.

I figure if you can the shaft of the same material you can cut the blade. Really I'm not worried about cutting it, I'm more curious as to the best way to get the rounded toe back.

The shaft is a lot thicker and stronger. It might be okay, but I wouldn't try it. If anything, turn it into a shaft and buy a shorter blade.

[interpathway 9]

I got two Mellanby PS blades from HG made by Mission. The blades were extremely long, and I hated them. I decided to cut and "groom" them to the blade shape I like. I took about 3/4" off the ends of both and rounded the toe severely on the end, especially on the bottom (Nylander type toe if anyone has seen one). I cut the blades down and did expose the foam core that these composite blades have. One blade has held up extremely well for the past month and all I did was re-seal the toe with Krylon clearcoat. The other blade gave out on me after a good ten hours of shooting pucks off a synthetic ice surface. The toe failed so I have glued the delaminated pieces of composite back together, and am now using a Minwax brand sealant. The first coat is drying so I will have to update you guys after a couple more layers and then some hockey. If the blade is new I would warn against doing this, but if you really don't care for it or it is on its last legs, why not give it a whirl?

[Esa_10 1]

Thanks all the feedback is appreicated- I'm going to try it on some old blades first.

Basically, I've already decided that I'm going to try it, just trying to figure out the best way to do it. And what tools I'll need to pick up.

interpathway; what did you use to cut and shape the blade (with wood blades I would just cut with a saw and shape with a file)? Thanks for the tip on the sealant - I was wondering what to use.

[VakarLajos 5]

I've had guys ask me to cut quite a few blades for one reason or another (too long, preferred a squared toe). It cut fine, but since I was not the one using it I can't comment on how it performed.

[calishark28 0]

Good Luck with that, let us know how long it lasts you

[fatwabbit 93]

I got two Mellanby PS blades from HG made by Mission. The blades were extremely long, and I hated them. I decided to cut and "groom" them to the blade shape I like. I took about 3/4" off the ends of both and rounded the toe severely on the end, especially on the bottom (Nylander type toe if anyone has seen one). I cut the blades down and did expose the foam core that these composite blades have. One blade has held up extremely well for the past month and all I did was re-seal the toe with Krylon clearcoat. The other blade gave out on me after a good ten hours of shooting pucks off a synthetic ice surface. The toe failed so I have glued the delaminated pieces of composite back together, and am now using a Minwax brand sealant. The first coat is drying so I will have to update you guys after a couple more layers and then some hockey. If the blade is new I would warn against doing this, but if you really don't care for it or it is on its last legs, why not give it a whirl?

Could have tried using two part epoxy instead. I tried the glue thing and it didnt last very long. Been using epoxy for a few years now, will good success.

[interpathway 9]

I used a fine toothed hacksaw, a file, and then down to a fine grit sandpaper. I will definitely have to give the epoxy a try, as I am sure the glue will end up failing on me. Thanks for the advice!

[fatwabbit 93]

Actually if you are using epoxy, you can use some rough sandpaper... the rougher the surface, the more 'bite' the epoxy has in sticking to the surface. You can utilise some masking tape (cream colored one) to form a mould for the epoxy to sit in. Try using a slow set epoxy first, at least it give you some time to work rather than rush and f-up the show.

Here's a couple of pics of what I still do to prolong the life of the blade on really abrasive surfaces, blades normally wear down within a month. Tried this and the blade can last up to 6 months before it is too battered to continue using.

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4445.jpg - all the stuff you need, prop the stick at an angle

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4446.jpg - masking tape on backhand side first, I find it easier this way first

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4447.jpg - masking tape on forehand side, ensure that the tape at the heel overlaps the other piece

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4449.jpg - mix it up

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4450.jpg - pour it in

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4461.jpg - let the epoxy even out on the blade edge

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee134/f...it/DSCN4462.jpg - you can use clamps to ensure that the weight of the epoxy doesnt push the maskign tape out

[interpathway 9]

Is the Australian newspaper imperative? Haha I have an outdoor asphalt court near my house so this might be great for that. My only question is that on slappers, doesn't the epoxy break off? Since the only part of the epoxy touching the blade is on the blade's bottom and the epoxy's top. I can't really visually explain my concern via text, but my imagination would assume that on a slap shot the epoxy would just crack off the blade bottom (but the epoxy would still be in its shape). If you understand the scenario (bonus points if you can, haha), have you ever experienced this?

[fatwabbit 93]

yup.. understand where you are coming from....*ding ding bonus points added

When I first started experimenting with epoxy, I was trying to use it to make the pins of a roller puck (white things that lift the puck off the surface). Learning about the properties of epoxy in Material Science class in Uni, I actually asked the professor if he could suggest a material that would adhere to the bottom of the blade, and had wear resistance properties.. in a nutshell = make my blade last longer. He said that to stick with epoxy, as it would adhere very well to wooden blades (or even composites) and is a little more wear resistant than wood. I tried different things to add to the epoxy to make it last longer.. plastic pieces, wooden and aluminum shavings from the workshop, titanium powder from the Mat Lab. etc. At the end of the day normal epoxy would work best. main reason I used this epoxy thing was that I was spending $45 bucks a wooden blade in Singapore from the LHS, and they never had the right curve or lie I wanted. So instead of changing a blade every month or so, my blades were holding out for about 6 months (playing once a week). Epoxy costs were about $5 and lasted me about 6 weeks worth of applications.

Playing on an extremely abrasive surface back then, i used to put a layer of epoxy that was about 1/2inch thick on the bottom of the blade. It would last two hockey sessions, but would crack regularly. The trick is to keep that layer of epoxy to about 5mm thick (1/8" ?). That thickness would still be strong enough to do slappers with. Essentially you could change the lie of the stick if you wanted by adding more to the heel/toe of the stick. Dont worry about the layers being uneven, once you play with it a while it would wear down to the normal lie you use. What i normally do is before the drop in i would take a few laps of the court/rink and run the stick on the ground like I was puck handling. It would wear the uneven areas down, and then you should be good to go for the drop in.

* Disclaimer - I would not suggest using this on an expensive sportcourt or painted cement surface, unless you dont mind the rink owner giving you a piece of his mind for damaging the floor. The epoxy would also wear down into a powdery form alogn the ground. This is only a suggestion for abrasive surfaces... also make sure you do this in a well ventilated area and have some newspaper placed below the blade. The excess epoxy will drip off onto the floor, and you dont want that either.

[interpathway 9]

Thanks for the response. The 5mm allays the fear I had, it seems way too little to break off on slapper, so thanks. One final (possibly petty) question, but you mentioned good adhesion to wood and composite. Are these properties analogous to ABS blades?