What's the lowest end OPS you would buy?

[Jesse_01 0]

At my local sport chek they have bauer xxv's for $100 cdn. I think that will be my next choice. I just broke my s17 and sold my s19 cause I didn't have a feeling for it. I wouldn't mind trying a one95 though. But thats another $125 more.

[Buzz_LightBeer 973]

I was impressed with the look and feel of the new S13, have not used one yet though.

[hamstercaster 2]

Here's a Canadian site with some TPS R8

http://www.cyclonetaylor.com/players/sticks/stktpsr8sr.html

[nichols735 0]

Slightly stupid question, do they make wood blades for tapered shafts. Still experimenting with curves, and dont want to break the bank. Also any US sites selling R8 shafts in whip flex.

Also were does eveyone find the best deals on shafts and sticks. My LHS doesn't close a lot of stuff out, so im stuck with net, IW, HG, HM, ect. Any other big names i should check.

Thanks

Ben

[jmacie3 0]

I'm a complete newb and bought the cheapest sherwood stick and the bauer x:15. I'm personally learning how to play so the guys at total hockey said just pick up a nice cheap wood stick and the cheapest composite and get used to them. I'm perfectly happy with them. I personally don't know the difference between a low end stick and a high end but I personally couldn't see myself spending over $100 for a stick once I get better but then again, it's so hard to not buy the best and most expensive.

[hamstercaster 2]

I'm a complete newb and bought the cheapest sherwood stick and the bauer x:15. I'm personally learning how to play so the guys at total hockey said just pick up a nice cheap wood stick and the cheapest composite and get used to them. I'm perfectly happy with them. I personally don't know the difference between a low end stick and a high end but I personally couldn't see myself spending over $100 for a stick once I get better but then again, it's so hard to not buy the best and most expensive.

I had the same thinking as you when I first started buying OPS. I was used to shaft/blade combos that were usually low end to begin with. Recently I got my hand on a Bauer XXV which is considered to be a mid point stick and IMO there was a hell of a difference in performance between the low end and mid level stick so I can only imagine what a high end stick feels and performs like. I don't play league and I don't have the talent to justify spending upwards of $200 on a stick... and also have something called "wife" at home too. In the past two weeks I've been shopping like a mad man online and just couldn't find a high end stick witht he curve pattern and flex I needed so I settle for SMU mid point stick instead. We'll see how that goes, butone thing for sure, I'm not going back to low end sticks anytime soon. I'll keep watching for a good deal online for a high end stick that would have what I want in a stick, then pull the trigger but so far, not much luck.

[Jarick 5]

Once you start getting your shot down (and it might take a couple years), the higher end sticks really can make a difference.

[f2racer 0]

I'm a complete newb and bought the cheapest sherwood stick and the bauer x:15.

Have you tried a wood stick? I recently started playing after a long hiatus (20 years) and bought a wood stick. After about 4 outings, the stick started looking like and performing like sh*t. So I bought the XII, which sucks compared to the wood stick when new in every category... I'd go wood if they lasted longer.

[sarmalidu 1]

Yes, Bauer has Vapor XXXX/60 tapered wood blades, CCM (I think the model was 852), Christian brothers (www.cbhockey.com), and there may be some others but those are the tapered wood blades that come to mind. This is OT, so if you are interested feel free to message me as I have a pair of RH christian blades in the "christian" pattern I am willing to sell at a low price as I just have too much hockey crap around.

Slightly stupid question, do they make wood blades for tapered shafts. Still experimenting with curves, and dont want to break the bank. Also any US sites selling R8 shafts in whip flex.

Also were does eveyone find the best deals on shafts and sticks. My LHS doesn't close a lot of stuff out, so im stuck with net, IW, HG, HM, ect. Any other big names i should check.

Thanks

Ben

[Jarick 5]

That's why most of us use a quality OPS...wood falls apart too easily, cheap fiberglass sticks lack feel, kick, and lightness.

I'll admit I'd like to give one of the X:40 and SE6 sticks a try to see how they are...although I likely already know the answer. It's a little odd that Easton doesn't have a PP stick between the SE6 and SE16 (unless you count the ST).

[jjleip11 0]

Just got an X40 and used last night for first time...liked the stick A LOT and I've played with all levels and types of sticks for many years. Not Bauer's higher end models, but for $99 it was well worth it. Great shot and accuracy, good touch and control of the puck. For what it's worth, there's my two cents.

[sarmalidu 1]

Moving back to the topic, I really think the best values are top end sticks on big sales or next-to-top on sale. Otherwise, if you want to go cheaper just go the 2-piece route. 2-pieces are not usually the cheaper at first unless buying relatively high end (for example One95 2-piece is cheaper than OPS by a fair margin). However, 2-pieces can be a lot cheaper over the long term. Consider:

Let's assume you're buying a OPS for $150 or 2-piece for $85 shaft and $50 blades. Let's say you break 3 blades for every shaft and it takes you two years to break 3 blades and one shaft. Cost:

OPS - 3 blades break and one shaft breaks:

$150 + $150 + $150 + $150 = $600 broken + $150 to still have a stick to play with = $750

Two-piece:

$85 + $50 + $50 + $50 = $235 broken + $135 to still have a stick to play with = $370

Compared to ice time and league costs, the two-piece looks pretty good :)

As long as you don't break shafts like crazy (and -most- people don't), a two-piece setup will cost somewhere between about half and 75% of the one-piece price. If you can get a good deal on blades, it will be even cheaper.

If you're -really- cheap, I'd go with a lower end shaft (such as Easton S5) or a bit higher with something like the RBK 6K and then use the money you save to buy good quality blades

The one caveat to this is that some OPS aren't too hard to turn into shafts when a blade is broken. Others are a pretty big PITA / borderline impossible. If you're willing to do the work it may pay off to buy a top OPS on sale and then cut it to a shaft if it breaks.

[jmacie3 0]

Moving back to the topic, I really think the best values are top end sticks on big sales or next-to-top on sale. Otherwise, if you want to go cheaper just go the 2-piece route. 2-pieces are not usually the cheaper at first unless buying relatively high end (for example One95 2-piece is cheaper than OPS by a fair margin). However, 2-pieces can be a lot cheaper over the long term. Consider:

Let's assume you're buying a OPS for $150 or 2-piece for $85 shaft and $50 blades. Let's say you break 3 blades for every shaft and it takes you two years to break 3 blades and one shaft. Cost:

OPS - 3 blades break and one shaft breaks:

$150 + $150 + $150 + $150 = $600 broken + $150 to still have a stick to play with = $750

Two-piece:

$85 + $50 + $50 + $50 = $235 broken + $135 to still have a stick to play with = $370

Compared to ice time and league costs, the two-piece looks pretty good :)

As long as you don't break shafts like crazy (and -most- people don't), a two-piece setup will cost somewhere between about half and 75% of the one-piece price. If you can get a good deal on blades, it will be even cheaper.

If you're -really- cheap, I'd go with a lower end shaft (such as Easton S5) or a bit higher with something like the RBK 6K and then use the money you save to buy good quality blades

The one caveat to this is that some OPS aren't too hard to turn into shafts when a blade is broken. Others are a pretty big PITA / borderline impossible. If you're willing to do the work it may pay off to buy a top OPS on sale and then cut it to a shaft if it breaks.

How close is the performance between a 2 piece and a OPS. Also, is there a sit on how to remove the shaft from the blade?

[nichols735 0]

Yes, Bauer has Vapor XXXX/60 tapered wood blades, CCM (I think the model was 852), Christian brothers (www.cbhockey.com), and there may be some others but those are the tapered wood blades that come to mind. This is OT, so if you are interested feel free to message me as I have a pair of RH christian blades in the "christian" pattern I am willing to sell at a low price as I just have too much hockey crap around.

Slightly stupid question, do they make wood blades for tapered shafts. Still experimenting with curves, and dont want to break the bank. Also any US sites selling R8 shafts in whip flex.

Also were does eveyone find the best deals on shafts and sticks. My LHS doesn't close a lot of stuff out, so im stuck with net, IW, HG, HM, ect. Any other big names i should check.

Thanks

Ben

Thanks, pm'ed

[cptjeff 0]

Moving back to the topic, I really think the best values are top end sticks on big sales or next-to-top on sale. Otherwise, if you want to go cheaper just go the 2-piece route. 2-pieces are not usually the cheaper at first unless buying relatively high end (for example One95 2-piece is cheaper than OPS by a fair margin). However, 2-pieces can be a lot cheaper over the long term. Consider:

Let's assume you're buying a OPS for $150 or 2-piece for $85 shaft and $50 blades. Let's say you break 3 blades for every shaft and it takes you two years to break 3 blades and one shaft. Cost:

OPS - 3 blades break and one shaft breaks:

$150 + $150 + $150 + $150 = $600 broken + $150 to still have a stick to play with = $750

Two-piece:

$85 + $50 + $50 + $50 = $235 broken + $135 to still have a stick to play with = $370

Compared to ice time and league costs, the two-piece looks pretty good :)

As long as you don't break shafts like crazy (and -most- people don't), a two-piece setup will cost somewhere between about half and 75% of the one-piece price. If you can get a good deal on blades, it will be even cheaper.

If you're -really- cheap, I'd go with a lower end shaft (such as Easton S5) or a bit higher with something like the RBK 6K and then use the money you save to buy good quality blades

The one caveat to this is that some OPS aren't too hard to turn into shafts when a blade is broken. Others are a pretty big PITA / borderline impossible. If you're willing to do the work it may pay off to buy a top OPS on sale and then cut it to a shaft if it breaks.

How close is the performance between a 2 piece and a OPS. Also, is there a sit on how to remove the shaft from the blade?

Tapered 2 piece setups are very, very close. My two piece synergies feel almost exactly like the normal Synergies that my dad uses, except for differences in blade (and get turned into shafts for me when the blade breaks- I have a few at home, If I had access to 'em I'd mail you one). The differences in blade are only becuase I'm still on Synergy 2s (SL generation) and elites.

As for removing the blade, find the "master stick cutting topic" on here somewhere. Dolos and synergies seem to be the most common to do it with, they're easy and common enough where the shafts are easy to find.

You also have the option of picking the blade you want, both in terms of pattern and in terms of make and model. For example, you could use an easton blade if you want wonderful feel and performance, and when you're a little tighter on cash you can get a much more durable dolo blade, or a cheap pro stock blade from monkey*. You could also go for the wood blade if you so desired.

I strongly recommend two pieces for anybody with a budget and a desire for top end performance.

*offer void if a RH shot

[jmacie3 0]

^ thanks for the help. Checking out that thread and def. goin to total hockey to pick up a set up tomorrow.