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mc88
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Everything posted by mc88
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By the way, I've since moved the lace locks to the 2nd eyelet from the top. I found the 4th eyelet to offer great heel lock, but did not maintain tightness at the top (which is why I added them in the first place). I just ordered another set of lace locks and Oakley visor spacer screws, and plan on putting some on the 4th eyelet again.
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Oakley visor screws (should come as a set of screws packed inside the retail box)
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Already happening over here. My LHS has a double sided display for Warrior sticks and they barely sold any of them over two years (2 or 3 left out of about 18 sticks). The display mainly sits partially empty. Apparently, not big sellers. They also didn't even bother ordering anything Easton in 2015--after the V9/V9E/V9T was replaced by CX, they liquidated most their Easton inventory. All you see in there are Bauer and CCM Sr/Int/Jr sticks with some Sherwood wood twigs and leftover low end Easton HTXs that didn't sell.
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Sad, but...
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Placing anything underneath the insole will offset the heel from the heel pocket. Not only that, it'll place your foot slightly forward and higher, which can cause lace bite (depends on how much room you'll have between the top eyelets and your foot, but from having ordered 2 sets of VH skates, I can say that the margin is rather slim). This is why it's been very hard for me to find and use custom insoles--since most are thicker from heel to toe than the stock insole.
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Pretty easy to install. Seems like the white replacements are the only ones available within the U.S. (online), so I had to improvise with a sharpie. Huge thanks to HockeyGiant for hooking me up with some spares they had lying around!
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So the hardware is mounted through the eyelet and held together like an Oakley visor (minus the crappy plastic spacer, of course)? Sounds easy enough to install.
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You installed them through the eyelet or had to remove the eyelet before installing?
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CCM has been known to add the extra "X" in some of their protective line. For example, for their pants: ULCX vs UCLP or HP 45X vs HP 45. Someone compared both and didn't notice much of a visual difference, but suspected the "X" meant there was a difference in padding, as it seemed a bit bulkier/heavier. My guess is that the "P" stands for "pro" or "pro spec", as I know the HP 45s are a pro model equivalent to the current RBZ pant line up.
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The craftsmanship leaves a bit to be desired, but pretty happy with the quick turn-around... So hopefully they'll work out. Will update tomorrow on how they feel/if they work as intended:
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Just snapped a photo of my feet (viewer beware). Looks like you're spot on. What's the best way to reduce over pronation? Custom orthotics? Or... is it even worth trying to fix? I don't have any foot pain when skating... aside from getting the same cut on my left foot from the tongue moving over to the outstep.
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You shouldn't need to lace down THAT far to get your foot inside the boot. I unlace the top two eyelets and pull all the slack down, then pull the tongue up/out then I slide my foot in: If you're afraid of using a heat gun and you still have a problem where your tongue doesn't sit flat, then just rebake the boot and slowly pull the sidewalls outward using your hands. You'll know whether or not the tongue sits flat, because it'll create an excessive downward force and feel like your foot is being smashed into the footbed (picture 1 shows the tongue sitting up, picture 2 is flat): Here's what the top view looks like (notice the instep is quite a bit tweaked upward):
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Fortunately, only on one side. The side where the tongue twists toward the outstep of the foot.
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Just checked... and as long as it stays centered, it'll only touch the very tip of the tear. While it doesn't look it in the picture above, the tear is actually pretty far back in the boot.
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Super stoked... Just got the OK from Rob to have some tabs put on my skate tongues. The issue I've been having: As a result, I have some early wear and tear on the interior liner (and the top of my foot keeps getting some abrasion cuts):: So, I mocked up something like this to HOPEFULLY prevent the above from happening:
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A short update: My skates have held up great overall (much better than the previous version). The only signs of wear I'm having is what I've shown earlier in this thread: I've narrowed it down to the tongue sliding over to the outside ankle during skating. If I were to order another pair of tongues, I'd ask for some tabs to be sewn on to the front to prevent sliding around. Otherwise, I'm extremely happy with my skates and I'm still skating barefoot (something I've never been able to do until now)!
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That's the most hideous skate I've ever seen! Send it back. It's not what you asked for... and you should expect more when you spend $900. Just tell them, no... I want this: Or maybe the above with some MX3 comfort edginess:
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I got the screws & washers from grainger.com: Screws (316SS) Washers (316SS) I got the 6-32 x 1/4 T-Nuts (18-8SS) from a California-based company called Mesa Fastener, Inc I actually found them by going to this FastenerClearingHouse website and doing a fastener search. I wanted the T-Nuts to be as close to 316SS as possible and PLAIN coated (nearly all of T-Nuts in local hardware stores will be coated with Zinc, which I recommend avoiding) No. I use a custom insole that has a hard bottom.
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Been a busy beaver as of late. I wanted to restore my backup rusty VH buckets into working condition... with a few modifications (This is not intended to be a tutorial! There's a lot of missing information!)... Forgot to take a before picture, but these pictures give you an idea of the amount of rust/corrosion: I had to remove the tongue to get to the inside of the outsole, but I wanted an easier way to place it back in. So, I decided to take a piece of fuzzy-side Velcro and glue it's backside to the underside of the overhanging Velcro on the tongue, thereby locking in the nut. Then I took a second piece of fuzzy-side Velcro and glued it to that piece of Velcro so that it would be flush with the tongue AND more comfortable against the top of my foot: Then I had Hockey Giant replace the eyelets for me. Turns out the eyelets that Scott supplied me wouldn't work with their machine, so they used some of theirs instead (I prefer theirs, as it has that black anodized coating) I was having some issues with rivets coming loose, so I began the process of switching over to T-nuts and Socket Cap screws--I used socket cap because they're super easy to start threading with your thumb & index finger). I also decided that since I was having some rust issues, that I would at least coat the T-nuts and washers with some rust-preventative spray: - Scuffed/sanded each T-nut (28) and washer (28) - Soaked them in denatured alcohol and wiped them down with a lint-free rag, twice - Laid everything out on parchment paper and primed with 3-4 light coats on each side for both sides (24 hours to cure) -Then top-coated with a high-gloss enamel by spraying 4-5 light coats on each side for both sides (5 days to cure) Then installed everything together (didn't coat the screws because I didn't want to mess with the interior thread diameter)...
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In the process of converting my old VHs over to T-nuts/Socket cap screws and stumbled across this article when trying to figure out how to top coat zinc-plated metals: http://www.galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/dissimilar-metals-in-contact In your links, you have 3 different types of metals: zinc plated steel 18-8 stainless steel 316 stainless steel In other words, your T-nuts will corrode the quickest (I remember reading somewhere that it would only stand up to about 6 months of use). Types of stainless steel: http://www.bosunsupplies.com/StainlessInfo2/ I'm currently experimenting with 18-8 stainless t-nuts (which is similar to 304 stainless steel, but with a different chemical make-up) and 316 stainless screws and washers that will be primed and top-coated with an enamel. It's still way, way early too to tell how well the coating will work, but I'm giving it a solid month of use before I'd recommend it. Either way, I'd avoid zinc-plated parts. They're nearly impossible to top-coat (it's possible to prime them with a cold galvanizing compound, but top-coats are hard to come by) and has a relatively low protection against "marine-like" environments (in this case, withstanding sweat...sodium and water)
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The Rocket Dryer only goes to a modest 70°F, so I doubt it'll do much of anything. I've been using this, as another member suggested. It's has a relatively low airflow of 105°F, and I haven't had any structural issues yet (avg dry time is around 90min). I know a lot of the NHL teams use something like this as well: http://blademaster.com/web/en/skate-and-glove-drying-equipment/427-sc8500.html OR If you're really concerned, use a standard run-of-the-mill portable fan (cool air).
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Instep sits flat, outstep is a bit warped (I've never noticed nor felt it): Instep Outstep
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Love the new toe cap! Definitely more durable than my original uncoated toe cap: Didn't happen on my old VHs. My guess is this newer wick liner is not nearly as durable as the old (or at the very least this fuzzy overlay material isn't as durable).
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Yeah, for about two-three months. I was thinking the same thing, unfortunately, nobody around here will touch skates. Seems like they may be going back to Canada... but not now, I need them.
