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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

isk8byu

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Equipment

  • Skates
    Graf 705
  • Stick
    Easton Synthesis (Still dreaming of the old Bauer 3030)
  • Gloves
    Jofa
  • Helmet
    Cascade M11
  • Pants
    Koho Girdle/Bauer Shell
  • Shoulder Pads
    Jofa
  • Elbow Pads
    Jofa
  • Shin Pads
    Jofa
  • Hockey Bag
    Old Team Issued

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    Male
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  1. Thanks! I did not know about the company in FL selling liners. Which liner do you purchase from them (Med or heavy duty)? I too have been recycling the liner each year for the reasons you stated.
  2. Does anyone know what type of sticks are they are using in the video? I am wondering if they would work for a makeshift summer backyard lawn hockey game? (My neck hurts just thinking of playing on a slippery sheet of plastic)
  3. Anyone here have any experience with the different grades of Nicerink liners? In the past I have always purchased the "NRCS" ("Nicerink Cheap Skate") liner because it was the lowest price. I am wondering if it is worth the extra money to step up to the "#1" liner? (There is even a higher grade #3, but that appears to be more for public facilities, etc). For background, I've had the rink for two years and had no problems the first year. Second year I had a small tear in the NRCS liner that needed to be repaired after a wind storm blew a large piece of debris in the unfrozen rink (flooded the day before).
  4. I highly recommend the light up puck sold by "Nicerink". One came with a rink kit and I was fully expecting it to be a gimmick and not worthy of much use. The puck is very impressive and appears to be a real puck that was drilled out and a solid polycarbonate core was placed inside. I wouldn't call it supper bright, but the durability/quality far exceeded my expectations. (link below) http://www.nicerink.com/store/product.php?productid=7265&cat=16&page=1
  5. It may be a bit extreme, but if you really want to know/monitor your hollows, you could get a "hollow depth indicator" or H.D.I. Just throw that term in google and go to Pro-Filer website for more details on how they work for skates. I own one for sharpening and really like it, but it is used more for checking to make sure edges are level than hollow confirmation. You would probably scare some sharpeners if you pulled that out to check their work. Also, the HDI is discussed on several sharpening threads on MSH, so you could dig around the website for more feedback.
  6. I wondering if anyone has any experience with how the ice will react when I have roughly 14" of water on one end and 4" on the shallow end? There is currently about 4" of ice in the deep end and the shallow end is solid. My concern is that the deep end will heave up as it freezes...is this a valid concern and is the only option to flood the rink to even it out again? (If it matters, the rink is 32'x60' getting deeper in the long direction)
  7. I just ordered a set of Step runners for my Graf 705's. First time with Step runners and I wondering if I can just stick with the stock 10' neutral profile or do they always need to be reworked before using? My current runners were a 13' neutral done almost 15 years ago. I am tempted by all the new profile options to use something other than stock 10', but at the end of the day, its more money and I'm not sure I would really benefit.
  8. I am in the market to purchase a new sharpening skate holder, and I have always used the cam lever style holders. From what I can find online, it looks like the newer tri-lie holders are around $200 more expensive than the older lever style. My questions are: 1) Are the tri-lie holders are worth the extra money? (e.g. What is gained other than the ability for flat bottom sharpening?) 2) If I only perform ROH sharpening, does the third dimension just complicate the process of getting level edges? (Does the third dimension even get used with ROH?) 3) If I make the investment in a new holder, is there a style that fits more types of skates than another and might be the preferred overall purchase? (e.g. Does a goalie specific holder work just as well on a player skate, where as a general holder may not work as well with goalie skates?) Thanks for any insight!
  9. I am going to install my first backyard rink this winter and have begun some of the initial planning. A have a couple questions: - Any thoughts on size needed for adults to reasonably play 2-2? My initial plans are 32'x40', but I may be able to push it a bit bigger if that is going to be too small. (Rink is really for my two girls so it should be big enough, but I still would like the ability to have some guys over for beer and hockey) -How do you construct your boards if you want to be able to move a snow blower on/off? (I am planning to use 16" high 3/4" plywood with the Nicerink brackets) Thanks!
  10. From a pure physics perspective (not experience/preference) you would also want to take into consideration how much blade is making contact with the ice (aka runner contouring/shaping). The other physical variables are skater weight and ice temps as mentioned above. Lastly, I don't know enough about various runner materials to know if that would make any difference in how a player would prefer the skates be sharpened
  11. I am not sure it really matters which machine you decide to learn on, they all have components that will take time to understand how they interact with each other. My advice would be to study all the literature/resources you can, so you know exactly what you are trying to achieve on the skate blade with the machine (Wissota's website comes to mind). Youtube as well has Blademaster/Guspro training videos for the SPB850. Once you know what you are trying to do to the skate blade, then start learning the components of the machine/holder and how they will help you achieve a good sharpening (levers up/down, hollow adjustments, etc). Also, get a good edge level checker...lots of previous posts on this website. It will take time at first and lots of practice. I remember taking at least 20+ minutes per pair to get the edges even when I started.
  12. For what it is worth, a couple weeks ago I asked my cousin from Minneapolis, MN (playing in USHL this fall) if he or any of his friends/teammates used FBV. He very quickly said, "no". I know that isn't very scientific, but he is an elite HS player (transitioning to Jr A), in arguably the biggest hockey state in the US, and he was confident that no one he knows is really using it. Now I have tried it myself and I liked the sharpening, but I think most important is even edges and good finish. I really wonder if someone had a high quality ROH and a high quality FBV if there would be a noticeable difference...or if FBV gets preferred by some folks because the sharpener was forced to ensure even edges, etc due to the nature of the shape.
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