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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

ABodie

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About ABodie

  • Birthday 01/30/1991

Equipment

  • Skates
    Bauer Vapor X:60
  • Stick
    Various Bauer Pro Stocks
  • Gloves
    Bauer 4-Roll Pro
  • Helmet
    4500
  • Pants
    Supreme TotalOne
  • Shoulder Pads
    CCM RBZ
  • Elbow Pads
    Pro Stock Reebok 7K
  • Shin Pads
    Jofa 9040

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
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    121212121

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Yeah, and it gets to the point where you won't be able to adjust it because you'd be compromising the integrity of the outsole with how many times you're drilling into it. And yep, I'm actually the manager at their practice facility. Let's hope they can break through this year.
  2. That's a tough one to answer. I have had a lot of success with both shimming and moving the blade. With figure skates, I'm more likely to shift the blade for a pronation than shim because the plates of figure blades have elongated slot holes where I can adjust the blade once it is mounted if necessary. Given that hockey holders don't have slot holes, you have to be dead on with the alignment (because of drilling the holes into the outsole and not being able to adjust the blade once it's riveted/coppered). Because of that, I say it is easier to shim hockey skates rather than move the blades. More than anything for the simple reason that if you don't like the shims (for whatever reason), it is really easy to get them out. Whereas, if you mount the holders/runners towards the inside and you hate it, it is a MUCH more extensive process to move them. As for the picture of the 1/2 shim, this is my first time trying to post one, so....how exactly do I do that? haha
  3. I know it may not be the fastest method, but I normally start small and work my way up with regards to thickness. I'll usually rely on my customer's feedback and I'll also go out and watch them skate to figure out if we need to add more height. As far as how tall you can make it, I've gone all the way up 1/4" for a shim for pronation and supination and recently just shy of 1/2" lift for a customer who had one leg shorter than the other. I'll admit I was a little skeptical whether or not I would be able to do 1/2" lift, but I used a few extra coppers to really anchor everything down and haven't had any problems. If they don't have anything thicker than the 1/16" plastic, they can always stack them on top of one another. That being said, Graf makes 1/4" plastic sheets specifically for shimming. If you'd like, I can attach pictures of the thick shims and what it looks like on a skate.
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