Jump to content
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Reviews wanted! ×

shoot_the_goalie

Members+
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    712

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    16

  • Feedback

    0%

Posts posted by shoot_the_goalie

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I personally think they should provide a different option (in terms and/or price) if you don't want the SHIFT holder mounted.  But I also understand why they wouldn't really want to offer that option.  You know people who don't mount SHIFT holders are going to resell them, and a flood of SHIFT holders being sold on 2nd hand sites will hurt their reputation, and in turn the brand, regardless of the actual quality of the SHIFT.

    With that said, I like True skates so much, that if I were to ask them to not mount holders, I ultimately wouldn't care if I got the SHIFT holders and steel with them.  I would prefer to get them, but it wouldn't be a dealbreaker, which I'm sure True understands within their customer retention metrics.

    Finally, I just got to see the CCM XS holder up close, and I really like them.  I'm sure this has been discussed before (but this thread is huge)...  I assume the XS holders do not line up with the SHIFT holder holes.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Healthyscratch said:

    I’m not asking them to sell me or install Bauer’s holders - I’m asking them to ship me the holders and steel that I am paying for along with the boots. 
     

    Basically, True is penalizing me because I don’t want the holders attached to the skates. It’s ridiculous, which is why I’m hoping there was something lost in translation. 
     

    I paid the amount of money they require for the entire skate, yet they’re only sending me the boots. 

    If I'm getting this straight, if you don't have the Shift holder mounted to the boot, all they will send you is the un-drilled boots w/o the holders and steel?  To me, who has a favorable view of True and their CS dept., this does sound like a bit of a harsh penalty for not wanting to use their holders.  But as someone previously said, I would assume other skate companies might do the same thing or not even give you the option, since it does hurt their brand.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    6 hours ago, hawk11 said:

    Now that it seems that we have established that flex and kick point will for the most part shoot the same speed, but feel different and release quicker....can someone tell me how and if the flex, but more importantly the kick point can affect the shot.  IE...will the lower kick point stick be more likely to shoot the puck higher and a mid-high kick point (ultrasonic) shoot the puck lower.  Is it better to use a toe curve with a Mid kick point and a P92 with a low kick stick.  

    I have been trying to find any info on this out there.  I am not good enough for it to really matter, but it is one of those things that is just stuck in my head and I would like some help.

     

    This is only my opinion so take it for what it is.  If you can shoot the puck hard, bar down or if you can rip a clapper, low from the point, you should be able to do it with any stick as long as the flex/lie/length is correct.  When you have the proper shooting technique down, the other attributes of the stick is more about personal preference.  Changing from a mid-kick to a low-kick to a variable kick is not going to dramatically change your shot...how your mechanics change is going to alter the shot much more.  Personally, I think curves don't alter shots as much as people think (unless it's an illegal curve).  Look at Sidney Crosby's stick.  He has a very flat blade, but he can roof the puck, hit corners, etc cause he has incredible technique.  Focus on proper flex, lie, length, and technique.  Then from there, just find what you like in terms of kick point, curve, weight, etc.  My 2 cents.

    • Like 4

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Hey all.  Looking for new skates for my son who is a 5.5D.  He has a narrow heel, but needs pretty high volume as the front of his foot raises fairly high.  Initially I thought Nexus, but seems like the Nexus line has been discontinued.   I know he won't fit into Supremes or Jetspeeds as he's tried those on.  Tacks were ok, but not spot on.   Any suggestions on what to try on next?  I noticed the Vapor and Supreme Fit3 series online (higher volume), but local LHS doesn't have them to try on.  Thanks.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, start_today said:

    Is RBZ stuff even remotely available? And  it seemed like people were generally disappointed with the updates to the QLT versus the RBZ.  

    They are, but mostly used pro stocks on second hand sites.  Very hard to find new RBZ stuff, except for the skates (which I don't recommend...probably a reason why you can find them).  And yes, the QLT was somewhat a disappointment coming off the RBZ line.  QLT gear is super light and moisture resistant, but made of stiff foams that don't contour that well to the body.  The FT1 line was a good correction to the QLT though.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, althoma1 said:

    I have both the CL and RBZ shins and they're both light and don't retain moisture, but the RBZ line is more comfortable. The Velcro for the straps are the longterm weak point, but the Velcro could be replaced or you can just use tape or shin tights to keep them in place (I do the latter). The Jetspeeds don't feel as nice as the RBZ to me and aren't as low profile.

    For elbows, I stockpiled 2012 Blue and Grey Warrior Projekts, but if I was looking for new pads I would consider Vapor 2X Pros, Warrior Alpha DX, STX Surgeon RX3 or the Jetspeeds based on what I have read. I would definitely lean toward a 3 piece pad.

    For shoulders, I love the Verbero Shield pads I have as they're very mobile and modular (I use them without the caps). 2X Pros, RBZ, or FT1 pads would be lighter and more hydrophobic, but I an not sure they would be as mobile as the Shield pads with the caps removed.

    I prefer a girdle to pants, but that's personal preference. I use the True XC9 and was deciding between that and the Warrior QRE when I stumbled upon a great deal on the XC9. The pants others have mentioned seem like good choices. 

     

     

    Yeah, the RBZ shins are great, but the velcro straps do lose effectiveness over time.  However, that cross strapping design imho is so much better than the new strap designs, so much so, that I don't use tape when using the RBZs.

    • Like 2

  10. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, stick9 said:

    IMO the conversation starts and ends with the RBZ and or the CL lines. Not sure about the pants. 

     

    I once had the RBZ pants, which I had to return under warranty (and was replaced by the QLT).  The RBZ pants fit me incredibly well (almost felt like a girdle), and they were incredibly lightweight.  The only drawback was that they were a little bulky/stiff in the front panels, more than the QLT and FT1.  Well, and on my specific model, the stitching was coming apart...thus why I got them exchanged.  I'm still using RBZ shins, elbows, and shoulders.  Starting to show their age, but still lightweight, low profile, comfortable, and working well.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    9 hours ago, Vet88 said:

    These https://rollergard.com/

    Don't laugh, a number of refs at our local rinks use them, they reckon they are the best thing since sliced bread. I have a pair of spring loaded guards but tried these and whilst I won't claim they are the best thing ever, they were pretty good. Now you do need to know how to roller a little bit in them but they stay on and get you easily from point A to point B. 

    I see tons of kids wearing these to the rink these days.  Can't say I've seen an adult in them though.

    • Like 1

  14. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, marka said:

    Howdy,

    I've got a set of Skaboots and used them for a game where I changed in the parking lot...

    They're for sure clunky and a bit of a PITA to put on / take off.  I only used them once and I'm sure I'd get better at it & they'd break in a bit, but still... Hard to believe they wouldn't remain clunky and a bit of a PITA.  On the plus side... I think you could walk forever in them with no damage to anything.  There's a heck of a lot of rubber surrounding your blade.

    That said.. The idea of a soaker with a bottom that could be walked on for a while on concrete / asphalt without destroying itself and which would protect the blade seems like it would be a better solution.

    Mark

    I have the Elite walkable soakers, which are pretty similar to the Treks.  They are great soakers, but like I previously said, from experience, if you're walking outside a lot, and you need to negotiate uneven ground, rocky dirt, and/or stairs/curbs, they're not as stable as the hard plastic ones you strap on.  They move around some inside the soaker.  For flat, even surfaces, they work great.  I would recommend the plastic ones with the heel strap.  When properly fitted, those suckers stay on very well.

    • Like 3

  16. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, mtn said:

    TL;DR: Recommend some skate guards for walking on concrete. Cobra holders and SpeedBlade +4.0 holders, if it makes a difference. 

    Getting back to hockey around here. Or at least I will be in a few weeks. Without getting into a discussion about the "why", it looks like at least one rink that I'll be at will result in me walking into the rink with my skates already on - and I'm just trying to follow the rules here. I'd been considering getting some for years anyways - as a referee, there are often times that they would come in handy. I don't have a strict budget here, but want something that is good value. If that is $30 for something that is flawless and makes my farts smell like funnel cakes, perfect, I'm in. If they all work basically the same, then the $5 option is where I'll go. I've searched here and on other forums that shall not be named, and haven't been able to find a consensus. I will not be storing my skates in these, I have soakers for that. 

    The options as I see them (availability may be an issue for some): 

    • The standard plasticky-rubber skate guards. I remember as a kid these kinda worked, but they seemed to fall off often enough that you had to look at your feet with ever single step. 
    • The spring-loaded figure skating standard. I'm not sure that I've ever seen these used on hockey skates. I'm considering grabbing these first, as if they don't work my wife can use them.
    • Step-in Skate guard. I've never seen one of these outside of a google search. I've found 1 review, and it wasn't a good one.
    • Blue Sports Trek skate guard/soaker. These look to me to be a good combo of both soaker and skate guard, but I don't need a combo. If it is the best walking guard, I'm interested
    • Elite Hockey Pro-Skate Walkable Soakers Look like the above, arguably they look a little better/higher quality.
    • SkaBoots. These look really good, though maybe slightly cumbersome to put on? Also, expensive and they don't actually seem to be available anywhere which may actually be a nod to their quality.

     

    So... Did I miss any options? What is recommended? Something else I didn't think about?

    My son and I use the A&R guards similar to the first type you mentioned.  They work very well on concrete/asphalt though they will wear over time.  They're relatively cheap though.

    I've seen many a spring loaded guard break.

    Never seen the step-in type.

    Do not use the walkable soaker types if you're planning on walking outdoors frequently.  I have the Elite ones and they will shift around on you if walking outside a lot.  Also going up hard concrete steps with these are iffy.  For general indoor use, the Elites are great though.

    SkaBoots.  They seem great, but everyone I know who has them; they seem clunky and the hardest to get off of all these options.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, SkateWorksPNW said:

    It's usually easier and more cost-efficient to bring new steel to a pro shop to have them cross grind the steel even and put on a fresh hollow.

    True.  But there can be minor drawbacks to this.  Besides the need to get access to a manual sharpener, it's also possible that the radius can get mucked up with the initial manual sharpen.  Of course, if you're getting your blades profiled with the initial sharpen, the latter point is probably moot.

  20. Posted · Edited by shoot_the_goalie · Report reply

    Sadly, I think you are right.  I think Hank's pro career is over.  So unfortunate that he might not get to win a Cup.  He's my favorite player, and I was rooting for him to go to a contender and win the Cup, a la Bourque.

    Rumors are (and just rumors) that if he retires, he'll be offered a front office position with the NYR.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, mojo122 said:

    I've worn a Bauer face mask, Mission sports mask, and mission gaiter with a half shield.  No issue with fogging but have the same condensation issue.  My guess it's the result of breathing harder through the various fabrics.  Condensation is less with the gaiter yet I feel safer with the masks.

    Yeah.  You're right....it's not a fogging issue.  It's definitely a condensation issue.  I suspect one of the pros to the UA mask is that it's more breathable, cause it has some gaps near the nose, but my exhales escape there and right up into the visor.  I wonder if maybe wearing something tighter along the nose/bridge line would help stop the condensation.  I've noticed players who wear surgical masks and visors don't have any issues, so maybe I'll try one of those next time out.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    So I wore a helmet w/ a half shield today, and I had my UA mask on as well, and the visor just kept fogging and condensing.  Had to constantly wipe it.  Any ideas of how to help with this issue?  Would wearing a different type of mask help, since the UA mask allows more "breathability" from the nose area?  The UA mask works great when wearing a cage, but with a visor, having issues.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Straightening out a curve might be tougher than putting more curve or changing the curve, but you would do it with a propane torch or heat gun.  Move the heat quickly on the blade, especially if using a torch, and then mold using the bottom of a strong door.  Be extra careful with the wooden blades that have the fiberglass coating on them.

×
×
  • Create New...