shoot_the_goalie

Always awesome to see this thread pop back up here and there. What a great thread this has and will be. Great work and progression as always Trey! Your progress and dedication has been nothing short of incredible. Keep it up! To nitpick, since I'm sure you'll take the advice in stride and improve on it in the next video you post, rotate that top hand more when stick handling. It'll allow you to be smoother with the puck. You'll know you're doing it enough when the stick handling becomes much quieter. Also, ever think about going to a hollow with a little more bite, maybe 1"? (I think you said you're doing 1 1/4" in your bio video). I think it would help you hold your inside edges on your turns a bit more, allowing you to make even sharper turns. But again, that's nitpicking. You're doing great. Keep it up!

Played around with the FT4 again yesterday. I think it's definitely the dampened blade that I'm not used to. The feel and response from the stiff ST blade is worlds different from the FT4. Not saying the FT4 blade is bad...just not something I'm used to. With the FT4 I was losing pucks a bit more receiving passes, and flip/sauce passes were a little tougher for me. However, the puck comes off so much hotter on the FT4 than the ST, with less effort. So I'm gonna keep playing around with it as I can. Love the release and wondering if I could adapt to the dampened blade in time.

I was thinking Marlborough...only place I know that has 8 sheets and Sparx represenation.

Hey all. Question for those who've used an FT4 Pro. Got to play around with one the other day, and while it has a phenomenal release and is insanely light, I found to have a lot of trouble stick handling and catching passes with it. I usually use a Super Tacks AS2 Pro; The FT4 is the same blade, same flex, same length, etc. Would the more "dampened" blade be the culprit here? Or the kick point?

I love the feel of stiff blades. I like that I can feel exactly where the puck is on my blade without having to look. Stiff blades are way more responsive.

This makes a lot of sense. The sock would make it harder for skate blades to get under the tendon guard. Or maybe to keep snow from getting into their skates?

Like someone else said, after I cut my stick, I sand the edges down and then put the butt cap back in. Then when I put a Tacki-Mac on, I make sure there is a little overhang from the end of the stick (maybe 1/4") so that there's no way I would ever touch the cut part of the shaft.

I don't use it on hockey sticks anymore, but the Wilson Sensation Overgrips are very thin providing much more feel than the standard over grip.

Hmmm. I've never had a problem contacting them via e-mail. But that was years ago, so....

I agree, those stick graphics aren't the easiest on adult eyes, but a lot of the kids love that stuff. Personally I like the FT4 Pro look.

My bad. For some reason I thought the P30 was re-released, but I was incorrect. Thanks.

It might be a big jump, but probably the P28 or P29. With that said, you can tweak your shooting technique with the P88/P40/P80 to hit top shelf too. I don't have a problem doing so, but I do have to slightly tweak my shot to get the higher angle.

Obviously besides grinding wheels, I would recommend a cover. Maybe a travel case if you're going to move it around a lot. Maybe some rubber hones if you're going to sharpen mirror finished or DLC blades.

Those are some serious Franken-pads. What's the blue material on the chest? Any ideas?

TBH, from what you describe, it sounds like a technique issue. You probably have a more solid base off-ice when shooting than you do on ice, and that could make a world of difference. Also, could be length of stick is longer off ice than on ice (skates) or maybe even equipment interfering with the kinetic chain when shooting. Have you experimented off-ice with full gear and on skates (roller or ice)? Maybe videos of off-ice and on ice shooting could help?