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Bbd94

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Posts posted by Bbd94


  1. 18 hours ago, syinx said:

    Get skates properly fit to your foot profile by a proper fitter, and have them accommodate your flat feet with Superfeet or other corrective insoles. 

     

    It's what I've done, and many others before me. 


    From what I've heard (and my own personal experience), Superfeet isn't a viable option for a lot of people with flat feet. I would look into a custom orthotic first and then try and fit a pair of skates, not vice versa.


  2. On June 17, 2016 at 2:06 PM, chippa13 said:

    Nobody was saying it was Bickell's fault. Bad contracts are usually hung on the team and certain agents who for some reason GMs always cave to.

     

    .. A lot of people are wanting to burn Bickell at the stake, especially Hawks fans. They're upset he cost the team "an actually good player".

     

    Look at Brooks Laich with Washington. Did I hate him sometimes because of the contract? Yes. But I understand that's a mistake. I would take him on a 1 million or so contract but not the one he signed with McPhee for 4.5..  

     

    Some GMs set a player up for failure, and some players get complacent. And yeah I do agree, Hawks have really poor drafting IMO as of late. It's almost ever since Tallon left. They have Hartman coming up but who else? They signed Kempny and will probably sign Shipachyov next season to mask the problem. 


  3. Wouldn't say it's Bickell's fault. Just another bad decision by Bowman. I think they'll have to trade Crawford at some point, unless they don't resign Shaw (which they shouldn't, they don't have enough space and they have Hartman).

    Should build around Toews/Kane and Anisimov/Panarin on offense, and Seabrook/Keith/Hjalmarsson on defense. If they can find someone to take Hossa in a year, they should be able to keep TVR from being claimed in the expansion draft. IF things start to decline the first players that would go would be Seabrook and Anisimov from that point. 


  4. 15 hours ago, OptimusReim said:

    I stopped using the yellow foot beds because they kept sliding forward and bunching a tiny bit in the toe box. It was causing me to curl my big toe while skating, and I could barely walk the day after games because of the pain in my foot. 

     

    Replaced with my custom SIDAS inserts (which I don't find any better than my super feet but whatever) because they're very rigid. Problem went away immediately.

     

     I left the red insert in, though, to not mess with volume.

    It's weird because they actually aren't bunching up in the toe box, just sliding.

     

    I would try a different footbed but I don't want to alter how my foot sits in the boot. When I used Superfeet on my VaporsI also got really bad arch pain. I don't have any pain on my haglunds and my foot "sits" fine, it's just the wrap on my right heel is bothersome. 

     


  5. Well the Stable 26 socks didn't help my right foot because it aggravates my haglunds, but in the process of trying them on I think I may have found the reason. 

     

    My left skates (which is fine) footbed barely moves vertically at all when I apply pressure. My right skates footbed, on the other hand, moves ALOT when I apply even slight pressure. I often feel that my right heel isn't completely locked in which causes it to push out of the heel pocket or move within. Not as tight of a wrap as on my left 

     

    could this be the problem? I took a video but have no idea how to post it on here 


  6. 1 hour ago, malcb33 said:

     

    I found the clamp method worked well but I had to hold the clamp down into the right spot while heated otherwise it slipped off.

     

    Other that sending the skates back for extra padding, have you tried these http://stable26.com/ ? I thought they were great when I used them with old skates.


    I did try the Stable 26 but I was a size too large. I'll probably try and order a smaller pair if all else fails. Rather have a permanent solution though than depend on something that may not be around in a couple years/be designed differently (speculation).

    I'm going to get another clamp tomorrow, the same one that Scott uses in the video on YouTube, and test it on an old skate with a heat gun. Did you use the clamp while having them baked or did you use that method? It's only my right VH skate so I suppose I can just bake it if need be, or hit it with a heat gun. Whichever works best for the final product


  7. 37 minutes ago, mc88 said:

    If there's north-south movement in the heel, then place something underneath the insole to raise the heel up in the pocket, so that the foot has less room to move... or, reversely, if the heel feels like it's sitting above the pocket, then take the red insole out, so the foot can sit lower. If there's east-west movement, using the heating method above will decrease the amount of space for the ankle to roll in or out OR you can use some Stable26 socks which will fill east-west volume.

     

    The only time I've personally had poor ankle lock in skates has been when the skate was too large lengthwise for my foot... allowing the foot to move forward and for the ankle to then slide out of the heel pocket.

     

    Another thing you can try is... loop locking or adding lace locks on the 4th eyelet from the top.


    Sent you a PM


  8. 1 minute ago, mc88 said:

    I have it. Rob recommends it for those who sweat a lot (which I do), so that it keeps the foot locked in.

     

    Try this instead of baking on the foot:

     


    This was actually what I was going to do next, but the clamp "pads" won't sit flat on the heel of the skate. Like they pinch the skate and then try and fall off? The smaller clamp was worse

    Looking from over top the skate the heel does get tighter as the clamp pushes in, but would this fix the problem I'm having? Seems like it would just have a better wrap higher up the heel but not a great lock down below?


  9. Starting to get a little frustrated.

    Anyone who read my post a couple pages back understands why but I'll go over it again. So my left skate is perfect, but I'm getting poor heel lock on my right skate. I got them in August 2015 and the right heel lock seemed OK. Maybe I was blinded how I could finally skate with no pain, I don't know. I was skating in Vapors prior and then about a year or so in Supremes. Vapors gave me Haglunds but I did like the heel lock on them.

    My right skate is shifting around a little too much for my liking and slipping when I'm taking strides and pivoting.  I've had so much problems with my feet that my bony ankles seemed minor but now that most of them (besides pronation, which I have help with) are fixed I'm noticing this a lot more. My right ankle is a lot more bony than my left and even in shoes, I'm noticing my heel lock on my right foot is poor. I have to really crank down my laces (shoes and skates) to get my heel to lock properly and this doesn't do a very good job. I've tried multiple clamps of different sizes when baking but the "pads" do not sit flat on my skate. As in part of them touch, but half the pad hangs off my skate since it's not a flat surface. 

    What do you all recommend I do? I emailed Rob and while I don't think I can order just a right skate with a smaller heel (that's not to count I already spent $900 total on these skates) I am not seeing a lot of options. I looked up the duct tape method that oldtrainerguy posted about but I can't find it on YouTube.

     


  10. 12 hours ago, Zac911 said:

    Vapor has the narrower heel between the two--  EXCEPT that the Supreme you have came from a family that was the first generation of 3D lasted skates they started to produce.  In the first execution the volume / width was not as robust as later executions.  

     

    That said unless you can add some minicell foam to the heel cup I am unsure that you can " pinch " the heel tighter on the 1X.  

     

    Have you tried a thicker sock?  Not like wooolies thick,  but something that may take up a little more internal volume?


    You should be able to use a ratchet clamp while baking to pinch in the heel (if you need it). Can be difficult, though.

    Like Chase said, you could try Stable 26 or some heel booties like EZeeFit. Only problem with the Stable 26 is how many pads are in the Custom Insert pack. I just ordered a pair from IW, as well as a Custom Insert pack, and Stable only ships 2 pads of each size. So if you like the 6mm and need a tighter heel on both skates, you'll need to order two packs as well as a pair of socks ($40.00 total).


  11. 2 hours ago, oldtrainerguy28 said:

     

     

    I have found that using duct tape instead f the clamp works amazing. It hold tight doesn't move and makes the heel tighter were it needs to be. I have done 4 re-fits from guys that have had the skate for a season and everyone says it feels like a brand new skate now.


    What do you mean by this? Baking and using duct tape? How would this work for someone with bony heels, there is nothing to push in?


  12. 5 hours ago, methosb said:

    I had heel problems. I used a smaller clamp to squeeze in the Achilles just above the heel which created little heel locking bumps to hold my heels down. 

     

    You could also try Stable 26 socks if necessary. 

     

    Where did you find the clamp? I bought one but it doesn't sit flat, just pinches and then falls off. Can you do this without baking? Like hit it with a heat gun? 

     

    Thanks again 


  13. Anyone have trouble with heel lock on any of their pairs? I didn't notice it too much (I got them in August and was psyched I didn't have any more pain) but I'm now seeing that I have to tie my skate much tighter than my left, and my heel is still slipping a bit. 

     

    I baked them for the second time and tried to use a ratchet clamp but it wouldn't hold.

     

    Any recommendations? My right ankle is substantially smaller than my left, and I don't really get a good heel lock even in shoes, now that I think about it.  I use wax laces too. Maybe find a really small ratchet clamp? Mine was a 6 inch with paddles bigger than my thumbs, but didn't have rotating heads. I'm currently sitting on the issue and while I love the pain free bit, this is bothering me as of late.

     

     


  14. 33 minutes ago, OptimusReim said:

    I really need to do that. Where'd you get them?

     

    You guys honestly just read my mind. I was just looking at skate locks online for my VH. Having problems getting my right skate as tight as I want it (always had this problem, not just VH).  Going to try them and Probably going to get them baked  again. Use a ratchet clamp on the heel and see if that makes it better.

     

    You can buy a 12 pack of the locks on HockeyGiant or HockeyMonkey sells them individually. 

     

     


  15. 3 hours ago, smu said:

    Can anyone get back to me about my last comment about VH Skates and the use of shims? With the fitting remote or not they try and get your center of gravity over your edges so it is not necessary to shim their skates unless the remote fitting was off.

     

    Does anyone want to comment as I am ordering mine to do away with any over pronation issues or at least as much as possible.

    The remote fitting is not as good as being there, but their goal is to get you in the skate molded so you are ready to go.

     

    Thanks,

     

    Alan Sheppard

    I have overpronation.

     

    if you order the skate without any built in shims (which I wouldn't recommend)  more than likely it won't fix overpronation. I ordered mine to account for my haglunds.

     

    im currently experimenting with shims. Got 1/16" on my VHs and it's not doing much, so may have to bump it up. Like old trainer said, if you normally do shims you'll likely still have to do them. 


  16. 2 hours ago, ABodie said:

    That's a tough one to answer. I have had a lot of success with both shimming and moving the blade. With figure skates, I'm more likely to shift the blade for a pronation than shim because the plates of figure blades have elongated slot holes where I can adjust the blade once it is mounted if necessary. Given that hockey holders don't have slot holes, you have to be dead on with the alignment (because of drilling the holes into the outsole and not being able to adjust the blade once it's riveted/coppered). 

     

    Because of that, I say it is easier to shim hockey skates rather than move the blades. More than anything for the simple reason that if you don't like the shims (for whatever reason), it is really easy to get them out. Whereas, if you mount the holders/runners towards the inside and you hate it, it is a MUCH more extensive process to move them.

     

    As for the picture of the 1/2 shim, this is my first time trying to post one, so....how exactly do I do that? haha

     

    Dont worry about it, it's a little confusing haha. Have to click the attachment icon (one that looks like a sideways paper clip) and then have the shim on photo bucket or flickr or whatever 

     

    Nice to get your opinions on this though! I can see how that would be a pain in the ass to adjust the holder. I just did shims because i understand it more but looks like I made the right choice. The person that is helping me is good as well. 

     

    I notice you're in Arlington. I'm about an hour or so away. Lifelong Caps fan (named my childhood dog Bondra). Hopefully we can win it this year.


  17. 4 hours ago, ABodie said:

    I know it may not be the fastest method, but I normally start small and work my way up with regards to thickness. I'll usually rely on my customer's feedback and I'll also go out and watch them skate to figure out if we need to add more height. As far as how tall you can make it, I've gone all the way up 1/4" for a shim for pronation and supination and recently just shy of 1/2" lift for a customer who had one leg shorter than the other. I'll admit I was a little skeptical whether or not I would be able to do 1/2" lift, but I used a few extra coppers to really anchor everything down and haven't had any problems. 

     

    If they don't have anything thicker than the 1/16" plastic, they can always stack them on top of one another. That being said, Graf makes 1/4" plastic sheets specifically for shimming.

     

    If you'd like, I can attach pictures of the thick shims and what it looks like on a skate.

     

    That would be perfect, thanks!

     

    They have 1/16" but assuming if that's stacked that's 1/8"? And then 1/4"?    Math ?

     

    How have you you found the difference between moving the blade and shimming? VH recommends realigning the blade but says shimming is an OK method too. I figure I'll try the shins first and if worst comes to worse move the holder by a couple mm.


  18. Just an update here and a question:

     

    So I have the Total Hockey by me installing a 1/16" shim on  both skates for the pronation. Very good service. Going to pick them up tomorrow and maybe skate this weekend or whenever.

     

    Hoping I like it but what if the 1/16" is too thin? It looked pretty thick but what's generally above it (just in case)?  Just stacking two 1/16" on top of each other to make a 1/8"? 

     

    Thanks 


  19. 1 hour ago, malcb33 said:

     

    I hear you on the over pronation issues, but I would definitely NOT just guess with this stuff and especially not buy a new pair of skates with irreversible built in shims on an estimation. Even just a tiny shim or adjustment to your holder makes a huge difference with your balance on the ice (not just skating, but balance being bumped into, shooting etc) and you should definitely seek the advice of professional (foot specialist) before investing money into new skates or any adjustments.

     

    After getting advice you can mail you skates to a store who can put shims on your current skates to try fist. Generally changes like this are done in small increments so it might take a while to get dialled in as well.

     

    Personally I think custom soles would help you a lot and would cost a lot less. I have leg length and pronation issues and have tried adjusting the holders, shims and risers and use custom soles as well. After all that I found the custom footbed made the most difference and I just went back to stock holders without anything else as that is what I learnt to skate on and still feels the most natural to me as I'm used to the imbalance (don't wear special shoes) in every day life.   

    i actually just got in touch with someone who said they do shims nearby when the other stores didn't. I wear motion control shoes as I not only pronate but have knock knees. Tried orthopedic footbeds for walking but they raised my heel too much and aggravated my haglunds. Ive been to a foot specialist who actually was really into hockey. Really nice guy but didn't know the route I was thinking about.

     

    Anyway since this is about VH, VH has completely eliminated the pain I was having now it's a performance issue. So I'll get the shims dialed in and hopefully, through trial and error, get something that works for me here. Ill post updates or someone can PM me if they're interested in the results

     

    Like I said skates are the one field I am clueless in so appreciate the help as much as you guys can. Thanks again

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