Warren

Jeff,

I don't know if it will help, but seriously, I know from my dealings with Graf Canada, they DO SPECIAL 'custom' stuff and the quality is out of this world.  Write 'em and ask.

I saw your post regarding rivet length...  As a 'rules of thumb' about 1/8th of an inch (5 to 7 mm) of rivet should be on the outside of the skate -- meaning, just to get the sizing correct, put the rivet in the boot backwards.  You should see that 5-7mm sticking out above the holder.  You CAN go less, but the lesser you go, the lesser amount of contact are that the rivet will have with the skate.  You basically want a 'flowering'/flare when you've completed the rivet.  Too much and the rivets flares all 'wonky' or bends in half etc.  It just is NOT secure!.  Another tip, if you have a more filled out source of dies (if you can do copper rivets, you have the right dies, btw) put the flat die for doing a copper rivet (this is AFTER all your steel riveting is done) on the 'post' and secure it in (usually with a Allen key), then on the moveable 'arm' put the long but flat 'peening' die on that side, then crush the rivets down.  It will not hurt the rivets of the strength of the rivets but it will give you a MUCH flatter surface on which your feet will rest (especially if you are one to like to skate in your bare feet -- without any insole (don't ask me why, but some people, that is the ONLY way they will skate!)).  Also, remember, when doing a copper rivet, do NOT hammer it down (assuming that you have a NON-Hydraulic riveter) so the stem is flat.  Two or three (at most) strong strikes with a hammer is all you need -- no more.  The reason is that within the 'transiting hole' of the copper rivet shank, if you hit too hard, you can bend the shaft of the rivet and not know it.  Copper, being a relatively softer metal, can have a memory in that it bends back and voila`!, you now have a copper rivet that is a little too long and therefor not secure.  If you happen to think of something else, feel free to contact me.

Warren