rh71el2

Turned out to be completely trouble-free on the ice. Go figure.

I guess that's what I'm asking as far as how much to sharpen until they're acceptable. Do you just do a specific number of passes and call it a day regardless of how it looks?

Question regarding acceptable sharpening. LS1 steel on my kids' skate is easily chipped. Have dealt with this numerous times and I'm upgrading their next pair for sure. But I can never tell when something like this is actually going to affect their skating. If I brought it to a pro shop, they would just keep sharpening it down until it was completely gone, but with the Sparx, even after 3 passes it remains and I'm not about to go nuts on something that may not affect his skating all that much. How do you ever tell when it will, because it doesn't always? Yes I've used the honing stone on it already... https://i.imgur.com/HruwXt5.jpg https://i.imgur.com/eOenq9c.jpg And to the contrary, I've done 1 pass to perfectly smooth edges (by fingertip feel & visual check) and it actually performed worse as far as holding a turn. So it seems there's no way to tell other than to skate on it or just sharpen a whole bunch of times to be sure. Fire 1/2 ring in case you're wondering.

Kid broke another Trigger 5 Pro so going back to Bauer. I see the Flylite is now on clearance/sale. Does that mean a new line for low-kickpoint is coming out? What/when?

Yes the 2nd pic on the listing says that on the bottom.

Did 2 passes each skate. Kid noticed zero difference in terms of glide or fatigue. Sometimes I wonder...

If I'm trying to change the sharpening from 1/2 Fire to 5/8 Fire (less bite), how many passes would I need? Only LS1 steel sharpened to 1/2 Fire only 1 session ago if it matters.

I'm the only one who knows how to use the Sparx at home so it's not that, and I have a running list of passes I keep on my phone. I'm surprised I'd be that far off... something is for sure amiss if it's pre-programmed for 320 passes. Is the count kept on the machine or on the wheel (the latter would be an interesting feat). I ask because I rotate 2 different wheels, albeit infrequently. 146 passes so far on the 5/8 Fire which still wouldn't explain it. The light for the 1/2 Fire finally stayed red and I couldn't start it anymore. Thanks for the info.

So I finally finished a grinding wheel (1/2 Fire) and this is my finding... it lasted 264 total passes. Which means if you do an avg of 4 passes per skate (overkill IMO), it would do 33 pairs. I do an avg of 2 passes per skate every 3rd or 4th hour on ice... so that would mean 66 pairs. Overall with the 2 kids playing 3-4x per week in-season, that wheel lasted 1.5 years. Anyone else with data to share? Is 2 passes average? I find that with the LS1 steel in my kids' skates, it requires more frequent sharpenings (is it because I only do 2 passes - doubt it). My LS4 sharpenings (5/8 fire) last a lot longer.

Just picked up the Trigger 5 Pro - practice tonight so had to make a quick decision. They didn't have any Trigger 4 Pro in 40 flex and on top of that, they aren't yet marked down... it actually costs $20 more, but probably because of the 50 flex. I'm glad I asked here because I didn't realize CCM is doing much better than Bauer for sticks now. His twin bro is going to be jelly if I told him and he can't even try it since he's opposite hand.

My kid broke his Flylite and I noticed the Trigger 5 Pro is newer and priced the same so I'm wondering if it's worthwhile it give it a try. We've been a Bauer family as far as sticks go, but the Trigger 4 Pro had great reviews. I've only been able to find a handful of statements (other than Icewarehouse's video) about the stick and a couple said the durability was questionable (it broke on them) probably because of its light-weight and everything that goes with that. Anyone here use the Flylite in comparison and have an opinion on the Trigger 5 Pro being that much better? It would be the junior model if that matters. The Flylite was the first time we decided to go high-end and it was a huge difference for him.

1) I am cutting both nearly new STEP steel and LS4 which are both tall. Is it normal for the wheel setting to already be at 6, 7, or 8 (see pic for contact point)? Even an older worn LS1 blade was at 7 so it doesn't seem logical. I believe most videos I see have it at a much lower number closer to 4. Confused why I'm never that low. This is where it touches on the toe side on the STEP steel and the setting is 7: https://photos.app.goo.gl/eG6iyDLmLZtis6J37 2) I've always carried the Re-Edger (http://ar-sports.com/the-re-edger/re_edger/) on me for kids' skate emergencies. Anyone ever use it to fix a chipped Sparx Fire edge temporarily, or is it inadvisable in terms of really ruining the edge requiring more passes?

The type of steel matters a ton how often they get nicked (sp?) up. 6 year olds are likely on the "stainless steel" rather than even the LS1. Big difference when we finally graduated to LS steel. And big difference between LS1 and my LS4 for holding a sharpen.

^ Suggestion should always be to try to go the shallowest without losing an edge. Personally with 5/8 FIRE, I'm still perfectly fine purposely throwing myself left and right, so it's a no-brainer to get the most glide from the shallower end. Try the shallowest first. Yes, experimenting may cost, but you will always know from that point forth.

Agree with this 100%. I'm more of an agility guy on skates so I like being able to cut sharply on the ice. I had a perfect 100/50 FBV cut every time at a local pro shop and gave it up for convenience of Sparx. I played around with 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 FIRE since my kids were still in the experimenting phase so I bought those to try. 3/8 gave me super fatigue (I had to try it) so I went to 1/2 FIRE thinking that was the 100/50 equivalent but it still was too much fatigue in the legs. I had little confidence in the 5/8 FIRE thinking I'd be sliding all over the place since I'm only 160lbs, but after trying it, I'm in love. Absolutely no sliding during tight turns. I got my kid on it (from 3/8) and have noticed a significant difference in getting to pucks (no look of fatigue and great bite in the change of directions). If kids can go from one extreme to another, it means it's just all about adaptation. For a guy coming from a shallow 90/50, they may also want to experiment with the 3/4 FIRE to start.

I do have a 5/8" Fire as well but that was barely any grip in comparison which is how I ended up in between at 1/2 Fire. Perhaps I'll give it another go and get used to that. I'm disappointed that the Fire rings DO make you give up glide for sharpness, which was the whole point of FBV where you don't have to compromise (at least not to this degree). Is the acceleration/push supposed to feel the same regardless of Fire vs Radius? Is the Sparx traditional ROH (say 1/2) exactly what you get at a proshop's sharpening (traditional 1/2)? Or is that a bit off too?

Well I finally broke my beloved Vapor APX2 stick last night. Have had it for about 5 years which feels like an eternity for a stick, but it was the perfect combo of light and soft feel/flex (77) for < $150 at the time. Would you guys say the True sticks are the most comparable non-Bauer? That's what I was told by a local hockey store guy. He also said most Bauer sticks are grip now which I can't get used to. Opinions?

General question - I'm a veteran skater of 20 years and I have been skating on the 1/2" Fire recently since it works well for my kids - they had gone from 3/8" Fire which I tried and it was very sharp and caused a lot of fatigue in my legs in regular games (not while coaching). So we switched and they are currently fine with the 1/2" Fire but 11yo kids aren't very particular with the nuances. While the 1/2" Fire is better with regard to glide, I still feel like it's not quite the same as the 100/50 FBV Blackstone sharpening which I (and they) loved before getting the Sparx. It's not just the fatigue factor but I feel like I can't accelerate forward the same either (although crossover acceleration is ok) and it's hurting my game since I can't get up and down the ice as fluidly. I thought it was just because I hadn't played in games a few months and I'm out of shape but even when fresh in a game (2nd week in a row) last night I couldn't do the same up and down that I was used to. Other than the time off, the only thing that has changed is my sharpening. Will the regular 1/2 Radius (non-Fire) wheel help with this at all? Even if I don't go back to 100/50 FBV, I feel like anything is better than what I'm getting now. I feel like maybe I'm hindering my kids' skating too with it - if I can feel it, they have to be feeling it but they wouldn't know from better.

^ I don't have an edge checker and saw that it cost upwards of $60 online. Am I missing something?

Question about the alignment process. I forgot it had an alignment mode so I used the movement mode to line up the wheel with the alignment tool. I was able to put the wheel right up to the slot and aligned it to what I thought was precise. Then just before starting the sharpening I realized there was an alignment button so I decided to use that to check if it matched up. The alignment mode does not allow the wheel to go right up against the alignment tool. With this view with the slots quite a few centimeters away, it looked at least about 4 clicks off. What gives here? I decided to put it 2 clicks toward center to compensate but wasn't sure which method is most appropriate. Even with that, the skates felt pretty good, so I was curious if it even matters all that much.