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malcb33

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Posts posted by malcb33

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I've got to say, I've been impressed with the 3D tongues. Yes, they are breathable, but for me, the true benefits are how they take up any negative space across the top of the foot and how squishy they are. The squishy 3D structure really helps decrease the pressure on the tendons across the top of my ankle during forward flex.

    • Like 1

  2. Posted · Report reply

    How do you see them as a costly investment? If you sign up for the I2 program, the steel and holders are basically the same cost as new steel.

    I was skeptical at first, but I really like the I2's and found they helped my skating and connection to the ice. I also use the R1 for roller and switch back and forth, and found this helps my transition between the two as well. 

    I would love to see Marsblade work with Flare steel, as I think this combo would be unbeatable. I'm assuming Marsblade want to keep pushing their own steel, though, which is pretty good quality in its own right.

  6. Posted · Edited by malcb33 · Report reply

    18 minutes ago, Marsblade said:

    Of course! Sorry I missed your first post...

    The weight of the O2 Medium lower chassis is 128 grams (only bottom). While the R1 lower chassis is 139 grams (only bottom aluminum). The upper chassis is the same for both R1 and O2 so it's the lower one that differers in weight.

    And yes they'll work well for roller hockey as well. You can buy the chassis only through Pure Hockey. //Per Mars, Inventor. 

    Thanks! Hopefully a retailer (Coast?) picks them up in Canada too. 

  9. Posted · Report reply

    On 2/26/2025 at 7:04 PM, malcb33 said:

    I wonder if they would hold up to hockey? I definitely be interested in trying the lowers, but don’t want to buy the whole boot. 

    @Marsblade what is the weight like of these lowers vs the R1’s?

    @Marsblade - Any chance you could answer the couple of questions I had about being used for hockey and the weight, please? I am curious about giving these a go these as an R1 user.

  13. Posted · Edited by malcb33 · Report reply

    Thats cool, I didn't realize they did just lowers. I wonder why it's not an option on their website.

    My thought around just the lowers for a potential performance set, was that they would be more replaceable if durability were sacrificed for weight.

    Not that it's ideal, but people seem OK with $400 high-end performance sticks breaking after a few months, so I think there could be a market for performance/ competition frames. 

  15. Posted · Report reply

    11 minutes ago, stick9 said:

    The truth is out there....

    Both are listed as a 5 but who knows if they are exact or not, same goes for the pattern. 

    Thanks, I appreciate the reply. I haven't seen the TC6 available locally to see for myself.

    I see them both listed as a 5, but did a bit of research online and read conflicting info, so I was hoping someone here had firsthand experience.

     

  17. Posted · Edited by malcb33 · Report reply

    @Marsblade - Any thoughts on a "pro-series" R1 chassis?

    I love my R1's, but do find the weight is a drawback for many considering them. The R1's feel overly chunky compared to high-end fixed frames, which I assume is because they were designed with durability in mind.

    A performance model would be amazing to see come to life, something a little lighter and in other colors, maybe with the TF radius included. Selling just the lowers only, could be a great upsell for the competitive roller players already using R1's, kind of like DLC blades for ice holders.

    • Like 2

  18. Posted · Edited by malcb33 · Report reply

    On 5/27/2024 at 4:33 AM, Marsblade said:

    Hey! The pitch of the i2s in it's forward position is about 4.5 degrees, approximately 1 degree more than a traditional holder. Depending on what rocker insert you're using your pitch rocking back will be different. With the most amount of rocker (14ft rocker insert) you'll reach a pitch of 2.9 degrees rocking back. //Per Mars, Inventor

    Thanks this really helped.

    I ended up getting both R1's for inline and the I2's over the Summer past. I have to say I'm very impressed with the product, especially the I2's. The idea was to match both my inline and ice profiles to make switching between the two as seamless as possible. I ended up adding a 1/8" heel shim in the R1's and using the pro series H5- TF radius, which matches the Quad Zero profile with the 17ft radius on the I2's fairly well.

    I would absolutely love to see @Marsblade work with @Flare Skate Blade in the future. It's a match made in heaven for both technologies.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    On 6/28/2024 at 8:09 PM, xstartxtodayx said:

    I'd always go the DIY route of spraying the gear down with a mix of distilled water, rubbing alcohol, and hydrogen peroxide after use, then washing my gear at least once a season (this is honestly the most helpful part lol).  I use Sport Wash from Amazon, if you haven't washed your stuff you may need to do an extra wash to get all the funk out, but this stuff is great (I use it on all of my sports gear and tech fabrics since it clears the pores and refreshes the wicking abilities).  Avoid any scented washes/sprays and definitely avoid any fabric softeners as they'll just lock in odor and destroy wicking capabilities.  Skates I just spray down and helmets are trickier, I usually just soak them in a bucket of the Sport Wash and rinse real well, but depending on the helmet they may never smell good (looking at you CCM 910 with your terrible design that doesn't let moisture or smell out from behind the comfort pads).

    I go with my own too, mainly because I find most commercial deodorizers are overly scented. I do 50/ 50 water and vinegar, and then add 20 drops or so of Tee Tree oil. It works super well for me and is cheap, effective and not overly strong-smelling.

    • Like 2

  25. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Westside said:

    Anodized, not powder coated. Powder coatings and paint would create too thick of a layer for the chassis to fit and perform as it should. Google anodizing around your area and have discussions with shops

    Awesome, thank you! Will do!

    How did you go about the DYI option? Feel free to DM if you prefer. 
     

    Thanks again for the info, I really appreciate it. 

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