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Posts posted by mickz
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How fresh is the diamond on your quill?
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Does anyone know if Crouch neck guards is still in business? They don't seem to have any internet presence and the few shops that carry it are out of stock. If someone knows who their current distributor is please feel free to PM me. I'm wanting to place a bulk order. Thanks!
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My first gen Total Ones came apart in the same spot. I took it to a shoe repair shop and they were able to glue it back together.
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On 5/13/2021 at 8:20 AM, start_today said:Anyone ever get frustrated with themselves for being picky about equipment? I really like FBV sharpening. The Blademaster/Sparx equivalent is ok, and I can manage it. But, I feel like it's for some reason really easy to get a subpar job; usually my issue is that it feels like too much bite or that my profile feels off. I have a place about 40 minutes from me that I like, but I wussed out and went to Pure Hockey that's 10 minutes away and [Price is Right losing trombone noise].
I know I can take a little drive and get this set right. But, more just wishing I could be one of those people that just drops their skates on the counter and doesn't even know what sharpening they are getting. Or can pick up any stick and be content. Or is fine playing on skates from the early 00s with the steel so low it looks like players are skating on the holder.
I'm a mid level player who started as an adult, so it's not like I have some specific history. It's just annoying to be physically/mentally thrown off by seemingly small things.
Buy an extra set of steel like one of the posters above mentioned. Getting both sets serviced together will save you a lot of time and hassle. Once you find a skate tech you can trust, don't deviate away from them.
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+1 for JRZ. I use their bags and they last forever. They're also affordable and made in Canada. Don't spend double on all those bags hyped up by Youtube and social media.
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Portables don't depreciate as much as full sized machines.
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On 12/14/2020 at 8:52 PM, colins said:Easton was on a huge roll of delivering some of the finest high end composite sticks on the market up to the release of the EQ50 which was a huge flop.
The weights in the top of the shaft weren't even that bad but the heel weight insert in the blade was terrible.Whoever was responsible for that release should have been fired. I'm not sure Easton ever really recovered their position in the stick market after that did they?
The EQ line of stick was a flop but the Stealth series was still very popular. S19, RS, RS II
3 hours ago, colins said:SE16 was a great stick, only flaw it had was the hollow core blades would go 'crunchy' and lose their pop pretty quick. The blade wouldn't be visibly broken, but the internal structure would be compromised.
I guess that was some of the early days before they had all the foams and internal rib structures figured out for durability.
The weight on the back of the EQ50 was a physical 'bump' on the blade and I don't think people liked that. The Warrior Spyne blades also had a non-flat back surface and didn't seem to instill confidence in most people's minds for handling the puck.
The SE16 was also terrible. Never seen a stick chip as badly.
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Don't think I've seen a skate flatter on both sides than the U+ Pro.
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On 7/2/2020 at 7:01 AM, BenBreeg said:Who is going to do that? And not sure that gets you around anything, it's just a secondary operation to produce an infringing product.
You can't get around IP just by being based in another country.
In China you can
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Yellow Superfeet footbeds would help stabilize the heel and bring the toes back slightly. They come with a 60 day money back guarantee if they don't end up working for you.
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1 hour ago, Beflar said:Funny you should mention this but I wonder if the ice I was playing on was harder than normal. Maybe that was what I was noticing...
Just curious, which rinks are you comparing?
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12 hours ago, pgeorgan said:A lot of times in the locker room I'll hear guys say, "I like mine really dull but I get a 1/2" so they last all season". It's done as a matter of convenience, but if you could get them sharpened before every skate, what hollow would you get?
I started doing my own skates at home last Fall, and as a result, I was able to drop my preferred ROH by several steps.
With that in mind, I really miss skating 😞
The amount of terrible advice I've heard in locker rooms is absurd. Once had a guy hone the sides of his skates for 20 minutes thinking that would sharpen his skates. I would've believed him if he was rubbing the stone on the bottom of the runners and moving his hands at 3000+rpm.
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12 hours ago, yk15 said:The best shins you can find are original RBK\Jofa 9k. Hands down from my experience.
Everything except for the annoying top flap.
On 5/2/2020 at 11:09 PM, Cosmic said:Reebok 20K Pro was actually a retail shin. I got a pair in 2014 or 2015, I believe and am still using them. I love them, except I wish they just had a bit more cushion in the knee. Aside from that they are total tanks and remarkably light considering how much Franken protection they provide otherwise (aside from the lack of knee cushion). I have taken so many pucks in the ankle area where these shine, and no other pads cover. Also, the long outer guard that wraps around the calf has seen a lot of hard shots. Somehow, despite it being real think with minimal cushion, it has always done me right.
I've never tried on a shin pad as bow legged as the 20K.
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12 hours ago, smcgreg said:New to roller/inline due to pandemic. I've skated about 10 times myself and have noticed the inside wearing more than the outside of my wheels. My daughter has been skating pretty much everyday since lockdown and I notice hers worse.
Should I be rotating them? Any guidelines as to how often?
Thanks
For outdoor skates I would rotate them as often as you have time for. Having the wheels out gives you a good opportunity to clean the chassis and bearings too.
As for the rotation pattern, I do the 1 -> 2, 3 -> 4 on my Hi-Lo chassis like Vet88 has mentioned. I also like to swap wheels between both skates in future rotations.
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8 hours ago, bogeywhite said:I have a hockey wrap around actually, unfortunately I go back and fourth between a pm9 curve and a pro stock stick with a square toe and it just doesn't really fit or feel right on either.
I'm not crazy about the tiles or a shooting pad because they're much more expensive than a can of paint, and I don't want to have to move them anytime I want to do something other than shoot pucks.
Quality floor paint isn't cheap and you'll have to buy at least a gallon. A coat of paint won't do anything to protect your stick blade.
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Elite laces are trash.
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21 minutes ago, Buzz_LightBeer said:Where do I even begin?
Bauer Tri-Flex; the most awesomely ugly graphics ever. But too stiff to be used by mortal humans.
Bauer 3003 stick; never lasted more than two ice sessions
TPS Adrenaline; loved the XN10 but this was a huge miss
Warrior 6” Tapered Plugs; every one broke right at the tenon
The red/silver Tri-flex was the first OPS I owned. Paint chipped like crazy and the blade was SUPER thick.
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On 4/2/2020 at 2:37 PM, caveman27 said:Senior blade is meant to go into a senior shaft.
Intermediate blade is meant to go into an intermediate shaft.
Senior blades can fit intermediate shafts. Just depends on the make/model.
As for OP, make sure you are heating it up enough. Are you using a heat gun?
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I disagree that Elite has the best laces. They are one of the worst IMO. The amount of wax they have is absurd. Most of it accumulates on the eyelets. Never bake a skate with Elite waxed laces unless you want it to melt all over your hands. Their laces are also very thin, which rolls more than other brands. I like that they have molded tips but that's about it.
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I've never found the need for the height comparator gauge. Prior to sharpening I'll check the skate blade with my Blademaster Pro Square. If they're not level I'll look for the position and size of the spark on the wheel. When I've made full contact with the blade to the wheel, I'll check the level again before making any height adjustments.
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If your son is LH, Hockey Monkey still has the HTX in his spec. At $60 a pop, that's hard to beat.
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38 minutes ago, caveman27 said:$700. That's a lot.
$700 is the what a top level C/A costs nowadays, regardless of brand.
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On 11/17/2019 at 2:41 PM, asgoodasdead said:i didn't know they made different kinds. i guess i'm anal enough to notice the elite are thinner, but not quite as anal as you
I don't like Elite waxed laces. They're so thin they tend to roll. Thicker laces stay flat.
Sh!t-@ss bauer steel/sharpening question
in Ice Hockey Equipment
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I have the Blademaster Green on my portable machine for my own skates. If I'm doing volume rentals I've been using ruby and blue wheels from Nash.