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mickz

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Everything posted by mickz

  1. I have the Blademaster Green on my portable machine for my own skates. If I'm doing volume rentals I've been using ruby and blue wheels from Nash.
  2. Does anyone know if Crouch neck guards is still in business? They don't seem to have any internet presence and the few shops that carry it are out of stock. If someone knows who their current distributor is please feel free to PM me. I'm wanting to place a bulk order. Thanks!
  3. My first gen Total Ones came apart in the same spot. I took it to a shoe repair shop and they were able to glue it back together.
  4. Buy an extra set of steel like one of the posters above mentioned. Getting both sets serviced together will save you a lot of time and hassle. Once you find a skate tech you can trust, don't deviate away from them.
  5. +1 for JRZ. I use their bags and they last forever. They're also affordable and made in Canada. Don't spend double on all those bags hyped up by Youtube and social media.
  6. Portables don't depreciate as much as full sized machines.
  7. The EQ line of stick was a flop but the Stealth series was still very popular. S19, RS, RS II The SE16 was also terrible. Never seen a stick chip as badly.
  8. Don't think I've seen a skate flatter on both sides than the U+ Pro.
  9. Yellow Superfeet footbeds would help stabilize the heel and bring the toes back slightly. They come with a 60 day money back guarantee if they don't end up working for you.
  10. The amount of terrible advice I've heard in locker rooms is absurd. Once had a guy hone the sides of his skates for 20 minutes thinking that would sharpen his skates. I would've believed him if he was rubbing the stone on the bottom of the runners and moving his hands at 3000+rpm.
  11. Everything except for the annoying top flap. I've never tried on a shin pad as bow legged as the 20K.
  12. For outdoor skates I would rotate them as often as you have time for. Having the wheels out gives you a good opportunity to clean the chassis and bearings too. As for the rotation pattern, I do the 1 -> 2, 3 -> 4 on my Hi-Lo chassis like Vet88 has mentioned. I also like to swap wheels between both skates in future rotations.
  13. Quality floor paint isn't cheap and you'll have to buy at least a gallon. A coat of paint won't do anything to protect your stick blade.
  14. The red/silver Tri-flex was the first OPS I owned. Paint chipped like crazy and the blade was SUPER thick.
  15. Senior blades can fit intermediate shafts. Just depends on the make/model. As for OP, make sure you are heating it up enough. Are you using a heat gun?
  16. I disagree that Elite has the best laces. They are one of the worst IMO. The amount of wax they have is absurd. Most of it accumulates on the eyelets. Never bake a skate with Elite waxed laces unless you want it to melt all over your hands. Their laces are also very thin, which rolls more than other brands. I like that they have molded tips but that's about it.
  17. I've never found the need for the height comparator gauge. Prior to sharpening I'll check the skate blade with my Blademaster Pro Square. If they're not level I'll look for the position and size of the spark on the wheel. When I've made full contact with the blade to the wheel, I'll check the level again before making any height adjustments.
  18. If your son is LH, Hockey Monkey still has the HTX in his spec. At $60 a pop, that's hard to beat.
  19. $700 is the what a top level C/A costs nowadays, regardless of brand.
  20. I don't like Elite waxed laces. They're so thin they tend to roll. Thicker laces stay flat.
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