Cutting a Synergy to accept Standard blades?

[kovalchuk71 212]

Where would I cut it? I know that we have multiple topics on tapering ones but im tired of getting tapered blades and them not being available in my area.....also, when i add my z carbon on to it, will i regain the flex I lost when i cut it to accept standards? Will I still have a kick point?

[rausch27 1]

i never wanted to put my blades into the opposite side of the synergy, thinkin it would mess everything up, but i tried it this weekend and i really like it ... so just put it in the wrong end

[kovalchuk71 212]

I was considering that but i dont want to do that and loose the KP...and if i do, itll be too long for me....

[Cavs019 710]

Kickpoint = BS. Just put the blade in the other end. I play with kids that shoot as hard and accurate as anyone with a flipped OPS.

[kovalchuk71 212]

If it flip it and put a blade in the other end, itll be too long for me....

[sherwood21 0]

Just cut the end you normally put blades in then.

[kovalchuk71 212]

will the longer hosel blade make up for the lost flex?

[mickz 107]

I like your avatar btw. Now onto the topic, which year Synergy do you have? I can take a pic of where I cut mine to accept regular blades. Mine's the generation Synergy that came out in silver (along with the Synergy Grip in gold).

[dietzie27 0]

yours is an 02

[lecavalier 0]

I posted this a while back.This is where I cut mine to fit a standard.It should fit pretty snug.

[all-star 0]

i cut mine a bit lower than that, just measure out whats good for your height. you cant cut too high for standard cause the whole shaft is the same size.

[mickz 107]

I posted this a while back.This is where I cut mine to fit a standard.It should fit pretty snug.

I cut a little lower than you. I cut the ( E ) in half. I'll take a picture if I have time.

[all-star 0]

I posted this a while back.This is where I cut mine to fit a standard.It should fit pretty snug.

I cut a little lower than you. I cut the ( E ) in half. I'll take a picture if I have time.

yeah thats exactly where i cut mine too.

[lecavalier 0]

I guess that's where you should cut then Kovalchuk.Come to think of it I didn't even cut mine,this was a while ago and I gave the shaft away a while back too...sorry for my lil error

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

Where would I cut it? I know that we have multiple topics on tapering ones but im tired of getting tapered blades and them not being available in my area.....also, when i add my z carbon on to it, will i regain the flex I lost when i cut it to accept standards? Will I still have a kick point?

There is, what, a 8-12 inch taper on the Easton? So, you'd be cutting as much as a FOOT of the shaft. The end plug you'd have to put in to make up for that would be a big one.

Also, yes, you'd lose the kick point. The taper is part of what defines the kick point, and you're cutting it off.

Of course, back in the days, there was no such thing as a kick point. Everyone seemed to manage without it.

You could flip it (in fact, if you want to put in a standard blade, that's probably the best thing to do).

[Eazy_b97 1]

I believe every stick has a kick point at the worst it'd be the area you are holding your bottom hand, because it "kicks" from the flex, but if you cut it off there then you've lost the designed lower kick point, but I think you knew that already.

[kovalchuk71 212]

but would the standard hosel blade make up for the lost flex since its longer than the normal tapered blade?

[Sven 1]

First cut on the E, if its not enough, cut a bit above ;)

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

I believe every stick has a kick point at the worst it'd be the area you are holding your bottom hand, because it "kicks" from the flex, but if you cut it off there then you've lost the designed lower kick point, but I think you knew that already.

Yep, I agree with your points.

but would the standard hosel blade make up for the lost flex since its longer than the normal tapered blade?

No. First off, you'd have to cut off the whole taper (something like 8 to 12 inches). No blade is going to be that long.

Then, you have to add a longer plug to make up for it (unless you're really short and using someone else's twig - after all, you would have cut it down initially if it were yours, know what I mean?). The wood shouldn't flex at all.

So, again, no - it wouldn't make up for the "lost" flex (at least not in it's entirety). UNLESS, you are suggesting flipping it, of course.

[kovalchuk71 212]

I cut it right here and it worked fine.....Did you think I had to cut all the way up to the "E" in easton? I was confused by some comments. It still has taper as well

[golfpuck 0]

the added weight of a long wood plug defeats the point, as it will make the stick much heavier... a 6 inch wood extension could weight 80g

plus your cutting off the original kick point, so you'll creat a new kick point.

you will get little if any kick from a standard hosel

bend is usualy in the shaft

your better flipping it upside down and buy a short hosel stanard blade (e.g. innovative, gear or the salming blades, or shave down a standard blade), that will bring the kick point as low as possible.

otherwise stick with the tapered blades, you dont really have a choice unless you want to buy a new stick

[kovalchuk71 212]

I actually had to only cut about 1.5 inches from the tapered spot on the synergy and my zcarb fit perfectly and its perfect height with no plug :)