SL-esis

[Sassmasta 0]

So I have a synergy SL that busted at the blade....(Cos the blades are crap on these sticks) and it is past its 30 day warranty. I was just curious if there was a point on the shaft that I could cut it and it would accept a tapered blade (ie L-2). I saw an article about a stealthesis way back, Im just wondering if it will work for an SL as well?

[#96 0]

I beleive it's basically the same deal as the old Synergies and Stealths. There should be a visible "seem" wrapping around the bottom portion of the stick, right above where the blade starts to curve into the shaft (aka the hosel). That is the fusion point. Cut around there first. See what you got. Begin to cut small distances up the shaft until the foam and other stuff in the shaft ends. That point should be able to accept tapered blades. I think alot of people are saying the point seems to be right below the bottom "E" symbol...between the "E" and the first little wavy design thing.

I'll be doing the same shortly. My blade is about to go. I can see the foam inside the blade.

[Sassmasta 0]

The blades on these things are soft like cardboard....after two sessions of shooting (slap, snap, and wrist) it became so soft that you can actually bend the blade. I took one slash on that soft spot and it was history. The kicker is that it happened on the 33rd day....should have bought it from E-puck. Thanks 96

[#96 0]

No problem. I only use mine for Roller, and I haven't really noticed it softening up. Then again I don't really beat blades up.

I have had two Syngeries now, old Silver one and SL Grip, and the blades have gone in exactly the same spot in both. Top part, towards the heal. All cracked, chipped, etc...if you look at the Bauer Endure, that silver strip that goes along the top, that's where my Easton's keep kicking at.

[Patrick67 1]

What would happen if you tried the "XX" trick, i.e. heating the fuse point area immensely then stick it in a wrench an (try to) pull the blade out?

Might be able to get my hands on a broken SL grip (blade snapped), so it would be intresting to know B)

[#96 0]

I had a XX and that trick worked. It doesn't seem to work on Synergies for some reason. I have tried, with no luck. Perhaps others on here have had better luck.

[Sassmasta 0]

I would try but I do not want to compromise the strength of the actual shaft. Excess heating causes carbon fibre (which is essentialy what these sticks are) to behave not so great.

[Sassmasta 0]

On a sidenote, does anyone have a phone number for missions warranty department. I snapped a 3 week old L-2 last night. (I cant catch a break...when it rains it pours)

[Chadd 916]

1-800-247-4639 then 1 for customer service.

[hockeypunk3 0]

I had a XX and that trick worked. It doesn't seem to work on Synergies for some reason. I have tried, with no luck. Perhaps others on here have had better luck.

I read somewhere that easton puts another bit of graphite over the fuse point.

[#96 0]

I just had to cut me SL Grip the other night. Truly a sad day in my hockey world...and my bank account.

Anyway...

I made several cuts up the shaft. But pretty much where I indicated earlier in this post, is where I cut it the last time, and it now takes tapered blades. I could see if you are willing, where one might be able to make a cut lower towards where the blade used to be. BUT, and it's a big BUT, you would have to chisel, and chisel, and chisel. And chiseling at the cut point isn't that bad, but chiseling deeper into the shaft is a PAIN IN THE ASS.

I'm no engineer, but it seems like what the process is that they take a tapered blade, put some foam and some epoxy and some glue, then wrap that mess in layers of graphite. Then they take a shaft, put it over the blade, and compress/mold that...and woila! A OPS.

[ChrisGass9909 0]

I had a XX and that trick worked. It doesn't seem to work on Synergies for some reason. I have tried, with no luck. Perhaps others on here have had better luck.

would this work with an apollo cuz there both made by bauer?

[beaver5 1]

thats where i had to cut mine.

:)

[reaper07 0]

is that a tapered blade in the sl?

is that a senior shaft?

did u have to chisel after you cut it?

[beaver5 1]

she would have a tapered hybrid synthesis blade. Im sick of the durability of the graphite ones so i decided to go for a cheaper hybrid one.

yes its a senior. its a prostock so it doesnt have the performance, wear, flex or players name. Also youll see that it doesnt say SL after synergy

nope no chiseling required.

[Overtime 0]

Dont tell me you broke your SL already, it like what 3 days.

Now to answer your questions

1. it looks like a pro stock because no name in the flex bar

2 hybird comp synthesis

OH crap! i guess beaver beat me to it

[beaver5 1]

haha whippy :)

[2-Keys 1]

thats where i had to cut mine.

:)

did u chissel your SL out or how did u do that???

[reaper07 0]

if i do that to my inter sl i need to get a inter snythesis blade right?

[beaver5 1]

Id assume so reaper.

keys it just worked. I didnt have to chisel anything.

hahaha i dont know i had a reg prostock SL not grip and it broke and i cut it in the same spot and the blade fit without chiseling

:)

[Sassmasta 0]

as a follow up to my original post a while ago....I cut the SL right where everyone told me to and it worked...I then put a l-2 blade into it. The only problem is that I had to cut it up so high that it significantly shortened the stick. So I bought an extended but end in and cut it to size and presto....I have an SL-2. Now the SL blade has softened as well...(I dont know how I am doing this, I play roller for gods sake), and I am sort of in the market for a new tapered blade...I am looking at Inno blades because everyone says how durable they are, but im having a problem finding the pattern and curve that I want....I heard that Bauer/Nike outsourced their vapor XV blades to Inno...is there any truth to this?

[#96 0]

I loved my L2 - SL combo. One of the best sticks I've ever had.

It is true that Bauer outsourced some work to Inno. Not sure on exact models that were done by Inno though. I'm not sure if all models were done by Inno, or just XXX, XX, XV etc. Somone else might know. I have an X blade and it's decent. Not the lightest, but good feel, excellent durability.

I did not like the feel of my Inno blade with the roller puck. It was too stiff or something, and puck just felt like crap on it. Maybe with an ice puck, which is heavier, feel is better. This has been confirmed by my bro who has played high levels of ice, and a buddy that recently bought a Novius with an Inno blade. Both didn't really like the feel of the roller puck with the Inno blade. All PP though.