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jrphantom042

abec 3's,5's 7,s

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Each bearing has standards when they are made....Im really not sure what that is or what qualifies one better than another...I just know 3's are the bottom of the line and it goes up from there I know as far as abec ratings I "think" a 9 is the highest, then comes Titanium then Swiss and the top being ceramic bearings...Im sure there is someone else on this board who can explain this better to you...But simply 3=least expensive and as the abec rating goes up so does the price...

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Nope I'd say that's a pretty darn good explanation. I mean, it can get a little more technical, but for the sake of just basic info, nice work.

But I've been on this board long enough to know that Mike the Goalie's next question is gonna be, "Well then what is the difference between Abec 7 and 9 and Titanium and Swiss?"

I'll let you take that one too Stock! Lol.

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LOL...Ill answer it for him already....Mike I have no idea what the diffrence between those bearings are....If I were you and had a little change to spend Id either go with some good swiss bearings(run you in the balpark of $70) or some Bevo abec 9's(which are on sale now at epuck.com for like $20)...I would say though the swiss will last you a whole lot longer and perform better...

#96, to get back on the RR 816's I ordered some on 1/5 they were backordered til today1/16 now I get an email saying they are backordered til 2/3 so I just cancelled my order for them...They just must have bad luck all over them...lol

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Talking about the MB816. It could just be that becase they are suppling Mission and finding it hard to keep up with demand. I was told that the 10k has now got white and blue mb816 wheels on them!

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ABEC ratings are the physical dimensions of the bearing and have little impact on how it performs in an inline hockey skate..

certain areas are how finely polished the inner/outer races are, tolerances and such..

bearings are made to spin at high rpms with little to no direct pressure, vaccum cleaners, sewing machines, etc...but when you put it in a skate and stand on it, it faces all sorts of new forces...

the biggest factor in how a bearing works for inline is the quality of steel its made out of...you can find cheap abec 5's because they have stamped steel inner race, etc..and a bearing only has to pass a certain # of steps to receive a rating..so it can have the dimensions of a 5 but the performance of a 3..

swiss don't have ratings since they lack a fixed inner race, one of the ABEC components..

get a good set of chrome, heat treated steel (5/7/whatever) or some swiss..take care of them, clean them (the # of times per year that you skate a week) play around with some different degreasers and lube..etc..and remember its not how it spins in your hand...but how it works under pressure..

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Talking about the MB816. It could just be that becase they are suppling Mission and finding it hard to keep up with demand. I was told that the 10k has now got white and blue mb816 wheels on them!

You sure? I remember Justin commented on this rumor in another thread, and said there have been no changes. I imagine if there were, there would be a pretty significant price drop as well. $20 a wheel to $9 a wheel would theoretically yield an $88 price drop and would close the gap between the $350 9500 skate.

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He may have gotten confused...the RBK 8K have the 816's on them and the Mission 9500's but Im pretty sure the 10K's didnt switch...But those wheels on the 10ks you cant find anywhere wonder why they are kepping them under raps?

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hyper no longer makes wheels in the states all there wheels r made in italy which is the same facility that makes all the hyper wheels for europe and now have to be shipped over. so as u can see they just cant make em or get them over here fast enough. they have been out of stock on alot of different hyper wheels for a couple months now.

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ABEC ratings are the physical dimensions of the bearing and have little impact on how it performs in an inline hockey skate..

certain areas are how finely polished the inner/outer races are, tolerances and such..

bearings are made to spin at high rpms with little to no direct pressure, vaccum cleaners, sewing machines, etc...but when you put it in a skate and stand on it, it faces all sorts of new forces...

the biggest factor in how a bearing works for inline is the quality of steel its made out of...you can find cheap abec 5's because they have stamped steel inner race, etc..and a bearing only has to pass a certain # of steps to receive a rating..so it can have the dimensions of a 5 but the performance of a 3..

swiss don't have ratings since they lack a fixed inner race, one of the ABEC components..

get a good set of chrome, heat treated steel (5/7/whatever) or some swiss..take care of them, clean them (the # of times per year that you skate a week) play around with some different degreasers and lube..etc..and remember its not how it spins in your hand...but how it works under pressure..

Very Informative

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If you're not one to clean your bearings (i.e. take them apart) and/or if you play on a surface that's not terribly clean, I wouldn't recommend spending much on your bearings. Those ABEC 9s will spin just like ABEC 3s in no time under those conditions.

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I use something fairly light and citrusy like Goo Gone to clean them...

basically here is my process..

2 old 20oz gatorade or powerade bottles (you can't use 1 40oz..sorry..)

took some old inline spacers (prefloating) a threaded screw..and put the bearings in between them open side down..(note screw goes through the bottle cap and has a nut on the bottom) essentially creating a bearing ka-bob..

each bottle is filled with degreaser..you can use this stuff forever..

agitate/shake the bottles, let them sit...

after this..i take them out...and have a small bit of unused degreaser in a small container (ie. bottom of another gatorade bottle)..bearings will be crunchy at this point..still have some dirt..

dip the bearing in the clean degreaser..take it out..spin the bearing a bit..tap it on a cloth towel etc..dirt should come out then...put it on an skate axle..face down...dip it again..then spin the bearing and dip it in the solution..this works as a vaccum..should get all the remaining crap out..wear a shirt you don't care to get dirty...

repeat until they feel/spin clean..

let them dry face up on a clean paper towel..

once dry..add your choice of lube..(you'd be suprised how many people put lube onto a bearing that is still wet with degreaser...uh...ok)

it sounds like a lot of work ..but I can typically clean them etc in 30 minutes..if in a rush..use a hair dryer on a cool setting to dry them

lube - lighter the lube...more you have to clean, etc..we used to use Finish Line Chain lube with some GT85 aerosol based mixed in..now I have some stuff that was created by a somewhat crazy guy in NYC (originally for his guns while in Vietnam no joke) that is lightweight and works well..don't think its sold anymore though..

in a bind transmission oil is ok..seriously..BSB oil (when they had Castrol in it) and Castrol's tranny fluid looked nearly identical and had similar weight..

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Thanks Jim....That is basically the same thing I do, except I have one of those bearing washers....My only problem is trying to find lube that is worth a flip...I currently use BSB proffessional quick lube which is pretty good stuff and comes in a can that is easy to apply.

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