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cause4alarm

turning broken OPS to usable shafts

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I found a discarded OPS (CCM V130) that's broken well below what I think is the blade seam. If I saw along the blade seam, would I be able to attach a blade to the original blade end or will I still have to attach through the butt end?

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From my experiences the performance is alot better and worth the time and effort to cut off the blade and put it in the tapered end instead of just sticking it in the butt.

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iam not sure about the V130 but there is alot of chiseling required for a v110 if you wish to put in a taper blade.

I'm not sure if I'm understanding you correctly. Aren't tapered blades the exception to the norm (e.g. Easton's Synergy blades)?

I was referring to putting a regular (non-tapered) blade into the original blade end. Is that original blade end on the V130 tapered, even at the point of the blade seam?

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iam not sure about the V130 but there is alot of chiseling required for a v110 if you wish to put in a taper blade.

I'm not sure if I'm understanding you correctly. Aren't tapered blades the exception to the norm (e.g. Easton's Synergy blades)?

I was referring to putting a regular (non-tapered) blade into the original blade end. Is that original blade end on the V130 tapered, even at the point of the blade seam?

yes it is. although i'm sure it's possible to replace it with a standard hosel but you'll end up with an extremely short stick.

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The V130 OPS is most definiltey tapered. In fact, i believe it has one of the longest tapers of any stick if i remember reading right.

In order to put a standard blade in the "blade" end, you'd end up with a very very short stick, as Andoy said.

I would get a tapered blade and see what you can do.

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turning broken OPS to usable shafts, (must it go in the butt?)

Sounds like a personal question to me (one that my girlfriend asks a lot) but that's a story for another time....

One problem, as SailRace points out is due to the length of the taper in the V130 means that you might end up losing quite a bit of stick if it's a true one-peice (which I believe it is). Otherwise, the taper would just start above the blade.

HOWEVER, there is a problem beyond these points. All of the CCM OPS are vacuum formed. Meaning? They put the graphite over some sort of sleeve and form around the insert. This equates to un-even walls on the interior of the shaft. I tried to convert my V120 into a shaft and found that once I tried to insert a blade it went in at a bit of an angle (slight, but noticeable) as one side of the shaft wall was thicker in the corner than another. Furthermore, the first time I flexed the stick it split open as one of the wall points was too thin right at the opening and couldn't handle the stress of the extra extertion that comes with marrying a blade to that part of the shaft (the opening there is the focal point for a lot of stress due to the coupling of the two items).

SO, if you are hard up for a shaft, make it easier on yourself and flip. If you have a reliable back up plan, then go ahead and try it.

Just my 2 cents.

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